I know you're planning on running high steer but my guess is that tie rod will be shy of 5 ft more like 4 ft 8ish and your drag link is gonna be around 3 1/2-4 ft. You end up losing 6-8" of tie rod/draglink length just from your joints/tierods. See what I mean? That axle is only 4-5" wider than a JK front axle. Not a huge change. Drag link will be 2-3" inch longer but the tie rod will be 6" or so.
Now have you thought much in the aspect of getting the draglink to clear the frame at full stuff? That steering will be higher up than just a flipped drag link on a JK knuckle is why I'm asking. I know several will just lift it more and bumpstops acccordingly. A few have notched the frame rail, in just curious how you're gonna handle it.
I'm not going any higher with my lift, I want to stay as low as possible. But I've thought about notching the frame a little. Didn't want to take a huge chunk out of it at first, so I might end up doing it twice if it hits it really bad
Word on the street is correct. I'm on the fence about it lol. After riding with you guys and Scott, I want a juggy now lol. And of ccourse 43" stickies!!! Lol
Well after a lot of thinking and going back and forth for what seems like forever, I've decided to keep my JK. I've also decided to change up the build a little now too. I still plan on using my Superduty axles but I'm going to go ahead and do a double triangulated 4 link in the rear using Ruffstuff brackets and heims. I'm also going to pull the trigger and get some 14" Fox coilovers from AccuTune for the rear also. The axles are almost ready to be put together. The only thing I need for them is brake calipers and a rear locker. My timeline is to try and get it ready for Jeep Beach this year. Wish me luck lol
Almost done! Gonna let it dry over night and then add 1 more coat.
Not going to install it right away, i still have to wait on a new vac pump relocation bracket to come in or I'll have some major issues when i try and mount a winch
My RockHard4x4 vacuum pump bracket came in today, so that means I can finally get the bumper iinstalled! Plan on doing it Friday since I have the day off and the nasty weather we've had the past week or so is finally gone.
I think in the world's worst at updating my build thread lol. But a few things have changed on the Jeep. First, I got the vacuum pump bracket installed. Second, I got the Motobilt bumper put on and man is it bad ass! The bumper has totally changed the look of my Jeep. And since my bumper can hold a winch I decided why not, especially since I was well overdue for one. So I got a pretty good deal on the new Warn VR 10,000 with synthetic rope. I also ordered a Factor55 ProLink because I'm not a fan of a regular hook ever since I seen one fail a few years back.
And here's a picture of the winch installed before I got the ProLink put on
Haha well the original plan was to do that , but I decided if I was going to do all this work to put them in, might as well stretch it too while I'm at it lol. Now I have a set of Artec swap trusses that I'm not using, know anyone that could use them? Maybe you? lol
Nothing a hammer can't fix lol. But I think I'm gonna go with a fuel cell in the rear since I never use my back seat. I think the 2 Yeats I've owned my Jeep I've only used the back seat about 5 times lol
With a stock TJ tank out back you can stretch it 2-3" with a gen right tank that should be used with a 6" stretch with a Dana 60 rear stretch... it should easily fit 8" out back like what I'm doing. I'll have to do my own mounts for the tank but that's no biggie.
With a stock TJ tank out back you can stretch it 2-3" with a gen right tank that should be used with a 6" stretch with a Dana 60 rear stretch... it should easily fit 8" out back like what I'm doing. I'll have to do my own mounts for the tank but that's no biggie.
I'm not swapping in a Dana 60 in the rear, I'm swapping in a Sterling 10.5 and I already contacted Genright about that tank and said it wouldn't work. Plus that tank is wayyyy over priced.
Because the yoke on the Sterling can still hit the stock gas tank and I don't want to spend that much time swapping in the axle and still have problems with it later. So I'm gonna just do a double triangulated 4 link and run a fuel cell in the back since I never use the back seat lol. Plus I don't like how the axle swings with a 3 link rear that I've seen before
I'm not swapping in a Dana 60 in the rear, I'm swapping in a Sterling 10.5 and I already contacted Genright about that tank and said it wouldn't work. Plus that tank is wayyyy over priced.
Because the yoke on the Sterling can still hit the stock gas tank and I don't want to spend that much time swapping in the axle and still have problems with it later. So I'm gonna just do a double triangulated 4 link and run a fuel cell in the back since I never use the back seat lol. Plus I don't like how the axle swings with a 3 link rear that I've seen before
Of course they want you to buy the JK specific tank. 05-06 have the same fuel pump mounting and EVAP connections. You literally just have to extend the wiring to ply in a JK or 05/06 TJ/LJ fuel pump. When I was stationed in Cali I caught flak from a dude from Gen right for doing a TJ tank swap Bc I didn't use their parts. Tony is a good dude but some of his customer service guys can be dicks and really push their parts. The TJ/LJ tanks do fit if you're willing to rework some of the brackets. If you own a welder it's not hard. Hell im using a Kelby skid plate on my TJ tank swap that I just modified the front mounting flange and the spring crossmember above the rear axle. You're getting info from someone who has already done the TJ tank swap. I know you're not running a 60 out back but that's supposed to represent a 1 ton axle is what I was getting at. Jeep speed shop also did a build using a 05-06 TJ tank and factory EVAP lines. They did 6"
Front stretch and a 2" rear stretch with a factory tank and their own skid.
