Swampy go fast

you could run a MSD distibutor to save space, or theres a kit to convert a points dist. to HEI for around $150! but price might have gone up.:driver:
 
Mine is already HEI
 
yes, but the Stock HEI takes up more room than a converted points dizzy b/c of the integrated coil. I wouldnt change though just cheat the engine forward till it clears or get out the BFH.
 
yes, but the Stock HEI takes up more room than a converted points dizzy b/c of the integrated coil. I wouldnt change though just cheat the engine forward till it clears or get out the BFH.

I was thinking about mounting it forward so I wouldn't have to do any trimming. I know that the ideal thing would be to move it back as far as possible....but I don't think the few inches it really going to make that much of a difference when it comes down to weight distribution.


why dont you fab to use the mount that came with the engine?

I thought about that. As it sits the drives side would be right right under the steering rag joint. The mount that came with the engine was a hard mount.....no bushings. I bet it would rattle my teeth out.
 
Tomorrow I will take some pics of the mount that came with it. It is a big u shaped thing hat bolted to the front of the block. I was also the mounting point for my Sweet MFG power steering pump...The motor also came with a speedway motors ps reservoir
 
yeah cheating forward wont change anything that you'll notice. I mean its a trail rig if it saves you tons of work then I'd do it unless you plan to be having to change directions quickly at 200MPH ;)

That big U shaped thing is called a motor plate its a drag car thing.
 
yeah cheating forward wont change anything that you'll notice. I mean its a trail rig if it saves you tons of work then I'd do it unless you plan to be having to change directions quickly at 200MPH ;)
That big U shaped thing is called a motor plate its a drag car thing.

Yea....My motor came from a dirt track car. I'm gonna look for something I can use to dampen the vibration. If I use the motor plate like it is then It will bolt to the top of my frame. I could maybe use some thick ass rubber between the two plates.

I plan on racing the truck in the local ECORS....:Rockon:
 
Thanks man...I'm gonna need it
 
I wouldn't use the motor plate at all personally. It's for solid mounting your whole drivetrain in a solid car. Which your yota is not. :flipoff2: What do the tens of thousands of other 350-toy swaps use for mounts?
 
if you use the motor plate at least bushing mount it to the frame. then again, might as well just use the standard engine mounts if you go that route
 
I gave him some oem mounts that mount to the block. he said he is having problems with it clearing the header.
 
I wouldn't use the motor plate at all personally. It's for solid mounting your whole drivetrain in a solid car. Which your yota is not. :flipoff2: What do the tens of thousands of other 350-toy swaps use for mounts?

:flipoff2:
I got started on the new motor mounts tonight. I'm gonna move the motor back a few inches, so I have more floor cutting to do. I'm also going to buck up and get a Griffen Rad so I don't have to do a rear mounted radiator. My phone doesn't take pics worth a damn at night or I would have some progress pics. I hope to have the motor mounts and trans crossmember done this weekend.

I'm also sick of my crappy snap ring plyers. I'm going to buy a good pair tomorrow so I can get back to work on the 205.
 
I have been swamped with school work and playing chainsaw man so I haven't made much progress on the truck. I did score a B&M shifter and lots of short pieces of misc tubing today from unbreakable.
 
I'm gonna have to make some motor mounts like these....I nabbed this pic from Crash's v8 4runner swap. He does awsome work.
ardsd.com_albums_album03_gibby27.jpg

ardsd.com_albums_album03_gibby34.jpg


Crash...Seattle,WA? Dank nasty stuff
 
Crash...Seattle,WA? Dank nasty stuff

Yea man...Crash is the shit. I have my own welder now so maybe I can get something done.
 
I now have all the tabs for the motor mounts cut. My 9/16 dril bit is trash but I'm gonna try to plow it through 2 more pieces in the morning. i should also have the trans cross member finished tomorrow.
I also cut the factory motor mounts off and grinded the frame down....fun times.
I will try to post some pics tomorrow.
 
Welllll I have everthing sittingin place (for now) The drivers side motor mount is done except for the gussets. When I made the motor mounts I made two identical mounts:shaking:.
I didn't take into consideration that the two sides were different. I have all the peices cut and drilled for the new one...all I have to do is burn it in. I also made a getto temp trans crossmember so I can move it around if need be.

I also manages to cut the hell out of my finger one some sharp tubing....then I pinned said finger aganist a big C-clamp while drilling.
 
ai36.photobucket.com_albums_e39_1stgenxxx_swampyenginemounted.jpg

The engine is now mounted. Now I get to pull it back out to fix the 205 and have the side of the TH350 tig welded. This thing is a tight fit!
 
It seems like doing a front mount radiator will be the bet option for me. I really don't have the room to run the coolant lines to the back. Space is minimal between the frame rails. I will also have to redo the tubework on the front end.
 
If you run the rear mount radiator then just run the lines down the outside of the frame rails and build ya some sliders that work worth a damn to protect the line.

good to see ya gettin it done.
 
If you run the rear mount radiator then just run the lines down the outside of the frame rails and build ya some sliders that work worth a damn to protect the line.

good to see ya gettin it done.

hahah...You talking shit about the flexy sliders on my truck? I can make them touch the cab with the hi-lift. Did you ever take those pics for me you lazy bumb?

I thought about the outside frame rail idea but I'm not sure how to work it over to the outside....
 
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