That type of trailer tie downs You use

MR. GADGET

MR. GADGET

New Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
Location
Raleigh NC
OK
SO what type of tie downs you use to tie the rig to the trailer.
I use 4 10,000 lb break strenght tie downs with axle straps and they have locking clips on the end of the tie downs.
I see everything from winch cable to chain to pull straps.
Was maybe thinking to go chains on the back with j hooks then the straps on the front. The tow services use chain in the rear and a winch and wire cable on the front.
Most chains I find are 3-5k lb working as the straps are 3.5k working and 10 k break.
So what you think and what you do.
There is a few posts on how to tie them down (cross 2 use 4 front 5 rear two to frame one to door one to hardtop and so on) so I'm not wanting to go there just what to use. If I go chains I will get the weld on chain lock tabs, no hooks or binders other then the j's on one end just use the front straps to pull it tight.
Jon
 
I have been looking at getting the ones 18-wheelers use.

They weld onto side of trailer and are alwasy there.....

I will try to find a pic
 
I use two chains in the rear with tensioners that go from the corner of the jeep to the corners of the trailers or close, then hook up the winch to pull the front down, then put two nilon ratcheting tie downs on the front corners to the front corners of the trailer, then the last thing I do is put a 3rd chain on the rear to the rear axle. I do everything to the body except the final safety chain. With the supsension seated to the point the shocks are bottomed out there is no room for the jeep to jump up and down and create slack in the tie downs. And this way only the trailer springs are obsorbing the shock.
 
I use four straps, 10,000lb's. A friend of mine uses J-hooks in rear and straps in front. HE puls tension on the J-hooks then Ratchets the front down. ALways very tight. Neither of us have ever had issues doing it either way. Both tie to the axle. I use axle straps with D-rings to wrap around the axle. I got mine at Sam's Allied brand. Made in USA, and was only $12 and some change.
 
Aggressive1 said:
I use two chains in the rear with tensioners that go from the corner of the jeep to the corners of the trailers or close, then hook up the winch to pull the front down, then put two nilon ratcheting tie downs on the front corners to the front corners of the trailer, then the last thing I do is put a 3rd chain on the rear to the rear axle. I do everything to the body except the final safety chain. With the supsension seated to the point the shocks are bottomed out there is no room for the jeep to jump up and down and create slack in the tie downs. And this way only the trailer springs are obsorbing the shock.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, a little of track but I have a thought to ad and ask.
Taking out sway or all about how the trailer will handle looking at it this way:
If you tie to the axle you let the weight of the rig to move some and the springs and shocks will work like it is on the road driving and lets say just to be saying 50% of the shock would go to the trailer and 50% to the rig vs if you tie to the frame and the full load 100% or shock is on the trailer.
Do you think that one way would be better on the trailer or not?

What type of chain you using and grade / weight rate?

Jon
 
I really dont think you want ther vehicle moving independent of the trailer. It is on the trailer, it should be one unit, and move together. If not it will crate problems. We use chains with ratchet binders to cinch the rigs till they squat.
 
After seeing all the various ways folks secure their trailered rigs for years, we followed suit somewhat last week going out to WindRocks.

A single 1/2" binder chain (*not* the average hardware store variety) looped around the rear axle and a couple of straps (Sams $12ish type) around the front axle. I also used the winch cable to squat the frontend a bit to cut down on "bounce". We had no adverse reactions while towing.

I do think some additional weld-on D-rings are in order to facilitate straighter pulls on the front though...
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
I really dont think you want ther vehicle moving independent of the trailer. It is on the trailer, it should be one unit, and move together. If not it will crate problems. We use chains with ratchet binders to cinch the rigs till they squat.
Click to expand...
What type of rig you carry and tow with?
What type of chain and location? 4 corners?
Not that any is correct or that there is only one way to do it:
I have been running it that way for some time and know a lot of people that do it with no problem but if you were running a buggy with a lot of squat or light springs then I could see it being a problem.
Most all the wreckers are set up to do axle tie downs and some may tie frame down for long trips.
I'm getting this a little off track I was looking more for info on class and grade of chain and how to tie it down or straps.

I'm one of these people that do the same thing over and over because that is how I always have done it but sometimes stop and look if it can be done better and want to look out side of the box and see if there is fact or reason to change.
Jon
 
not sure if you can see it in this pic...

But i criss cross ,my straps

DSC00014.JPG


OK found some better pics

xj_trailer.jpg


and

xj_trailer2.jpg
 
MR. GADGET said:
What type of rig you carry and tow with?
What type of chain and location? 4 corners?
Not that any is correct or that there is only one way to do it:
I have been running it that way for some time and know a lot of people that do it with no problem but if you were running a buggy with a lot of squat or light springs then I could see it being a problem.
Most all the wreckers are set up to do axle tie downs and some may tie frame down for long trips.
I'm getting this a little off track I was looking more for info on class and grade of chain and how to tie it down or straps.

I'm one of these people that do the same thing over and over because that is how I always have done it but sometimes stop and look if it can be done better and want to look out side of the box and see if there is fact or reason to change.
Jon
Click to expand...


Right now I carry a '90 Cherokee on a kraftsman dual axle trailer w/ brakes behind an E-150 van. We go off each corner of my bumpers through the d rings-front and rear with heavy duty chain, not sure of gauge.

I am not saying you are doing anything wrong. I think that the less movement you have on the trailer equals a better pull from the trailer and more stability. Wreckers tie to the axle because they are on the truck, you don't have the extra link of the trailer.

My buddy's father hauls military humvees and duce-and-a-halfs for a living, that is how he secures his loads and has never had a problem. Now granted, the truck and trailer are bigger but the principle is the same. :)
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
kraftsman dual axle trailer w/ brakes

I am not saying you are doing anything wrong. . :)
Click to expand...

Good trailer that is what I'm pulling! :)


As long as someone does not show me a picture of there rig that broke loose and ran over there tow rig I will not say anything is wrong.

Just looking at the different ways of doing it.
Alot would be the weight of your rig and type of trailer along with what you tow it with.
J
http://community.webshots.com/photo/220724359/220745423kmhNAy
http://community.webshots.com/photo/192497646/192513094PkgPbC
 
Think about the lean of a trail into a corner then add the lean of a rig on top of it and that equals alot of lean. On a leaf sprung Jeep it might not be as bad, but with my coil sprung TJ with a 3 link front I don't like to watch the mirrors touch the car next to me on a curve. It works very well having the "as one with the trailer". Its been 8 hours to boone and 8 hours to tellico and felt good all the way. I should probably swap mine to criss cross the way Ken does his, just to the body though.
 
i use regular HD logging type chains Grade 40? IIRC 3/8" size, with pin'd on hooks etc.. I bought one 14' and cut it in half and added 2 large hooks on the cut ends..

I then use 10k rachet straps. crossed in the front.

As far as strapping the rig vs the axle that is 100% a personal choice. Depending on your vehicles suspension travel it may be required. Also most racers will block the car and strap the car as tight as they can to prevent suspension movement from 'wearing out' thier shocks and springs...

I plan to try both ways with the jeep and see which way i like better...

What ever you d, PLEASE put a chain on the back end, even if its 1 in the middle as back up.... If you impact somthing solid the loads are much higher than you might think... think about your 0-60 times when towing ? then your 60-0 times in an accident... be safe...
 
ok I have found the ones I was talking about that 18 wheelers use

strap%20winches.jpg


and the strap

winch%20strap.jpg


but I would want a hook on the end instead of that flat plate bent over
 
The flat plate is specially designed to fit into the siderail pockets on trailers, it is more than likely gonna be akward in your application. Here is one before I built my bumpers. The only pic i had of her on the trailer on the computer. The chains are not all the way tight yet, but you get the idea.


trailer.JPG
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
The flat plate is specially designed to fit into the siderail pockets on trailers, it is more than likely gonna be akward in your application.
Click to expand...

ya that is why I would want a hook end so I could use axle straps...
 
ken, i found a smaller version that uses the regular 2" wide tacheot type straps, i wanted a solid mount for quicker hook ups.. I planed to mount them on a 1/4" plate and have a large 3/4" bolt for it to swivel on so it pulls straight... found them at tractor supply...
 
yager said:
What ever you d, PLEASE put a chain on the back end, even if its 1 in the middle as back up.... If you impact somthing solid the loads are much higher than you might think... think about your 0-60 times when towing ? then your 60-0 times in an accident... be safe...
Click to expand...

That is what I'm After?
I run 2 - 10 k straps to the rear now is the chain stronger or better?
The Chain I found had around the same working load as the straps.
I'm thinking the chain breaking is higher but is 20K break not enough?
Jon
 
yager said:
ken, i found a smaller version that uses the regular 2" wide tacheot type straps, i wanted a solid mount for quicker hook ups.. I planed to mount them on a 1/4" plate and have a large 3/4" bolt for it to swivel on so it pulls straight... found them at tractor supply...
Click to expand...

nice i will have to check thewm out
 
Grade 70 Transportation chain has a working limit of 6600 pounds and a breaking strength of 24,600 pounds. That is the chain you need to secure your rig.
 
BigBody79 said:
Grade 70 Transportation chain has a working limit of 6600 pounds and a breaking strength of 24,600 pounds. That is the chain you need to secure your rig.
Click to expand...

Cool
Good info, I think I need to look in to it.
49,200 sounds like a little over kill but a lot of safety built in to it.
Would the straps I have now 2 10k work with enough safety built in to it for now tell they were out?
What kind of satety factor would be go, say a % of the load.
The chains are more then 8 times the load.
Maybe like when we look at a winch you want 1.5 to 2 times the gross weight of the rig on trail.
Jon
 
BRUISER said:
ok I have found the ones I was talking about that 18 wheelers use

strap%20winches.jpg


and the strap

winch%20strap.jpg


but I would want a hook on the end instead of that flat plate bent over
Click to expand...

My trailer came with these 5"(?) wide ratchets installed...1 on the tongue & 1 on the drivers rear corner. While they *ARE* beefy enough, I have the same issue with the straps having no hook. I may "find" a spot to hook it on the front (winch plate or x-member?) to compress the suspension a bit and save wear/tear on my cheapy winch.
The rear mounted ratchet would be fine for looping around the axle and back to the opposite corner, otherwise, it's useless since it would pull the Jeep that direction without another strap holding it centered. Plus, I prefer chain in the rear (for the reasons Mike mentioned).

Anyone have the specs on the Sam's Club yellow straps? Mine were without any kind of specs advertised...
 
BigBody79 said:
Grade 70 Transportation chain has a working limit of 6600 pounds and a breaking strength of 24,600 pounds. That is the chain you need to secure your rig.
Click to expand...

I use two 3/8" grade 70 transport chains (2) in the back and two 10,000 lb straps up front. You have seen my set-up Jon but here is a pic anyway. http://image32.webshots.com/33/1/17/97/338911797vqQvnn_fs.jpg

Here is a link to the specs on the grade 70 chain. http://www.cmindustrial.com/products/chains/nacm.asp It confirms what bigbody79 said above.

I bought two 20ft lengths at Northern. You can buy any length but I bought it in a gay blue carry case with hooks etc all in. The carry case is nice because I through it in the back of the Jeep for wheelin and it keeps the rust and dirt confined for when I store it in the garage or heaven forbid I put it inside the cab of my tow rig.

I use chain in the back because it does not stretch like a strap will.

Also, I have seen the axle straps you use at Northern. I would like to get some but have resisted since they only have a 3,000 lb working strength and would be the week link in securing my Jeep. I would buy some higher strength ones if I knew where to get them.
 
MR. GADGET said:
OK
Was maybe thinking to go chains on the back with j hooks then the straps on the front. The tow services use chain in the rear and a winch and wire cable on the front.
Jon
Click to expand...

Most rollback operators quick load, using/relying on the winch to hold the vehilce while in transit. Not the proper way, not the safe way, they should be chaining the front of the vehicle down to the front corners of the deck.

If you have ever seen a rollback winch let go IN TRANSIT and the driver didn't happen to set the parking brake/ put vehicle in park, it gets messy quick.

Any one seen the old red Chevy dually "wrecker" running around Raleigh of late, using a HARBOR FRIEGHT $299 winch as the lifting /hoisting method ?


Kevin
 
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