The Dana 35 thread

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I 100% agree that the 6 and 4 cylinder tjs have comparable gearing in the trans and the t-case. That is one of the reasons I would belive that 50% more torque with equal gearing in the drive train (other that axles) would make a big difference in the stress an axle assembly would see.

I do understand why the guys running 22re engines use lots of gear reduction. I have owned 2 trucks with that engine, and they are crazy weak.
 
Infamous1 said:
Because there was an idiot on here that did that and argued how strong is 35 was.
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I would like to think I wouldn't be considered an idiot because I asked a question about a specific combination of engine size, vehicle weight and axle upgrades?

I would never considered the possibility of running a dana 35 behind an engine with 50% more torque than my truck (making the assumption the yellow xj had a 4.0) and would also weigh some where in the neighborhood of half a ton more than my tj, with tires that I would consider much larger than what I have.

The differences in that xj and my tj seem to me to make it not relevant in any way.

And I would never call a dana 35 with any amount of upgrades a strong axle.

But thank you for the input!
 
Ummmm I don't think i called you and idiot. I'm done here also, troll on bud.
 
Infamous1 said:
Ummmm I don't think i called you and idiot. I'm done here also, troll on bud.
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I apologize if I somehow made the impression that you called me an idiot. You never did that. You called someone else an idiot because they had a different opinion than you.
 
I have to admit I didn't expect to hear from many people who actually have experience with the setup I asked about. It isn't something that is looked well upon in the 4wheeling community, for the right reasons or not.

What I truly didn't expect is a simple ( in my mind) request for first hand knowledge, could turn to name calling, and people acting as if I had hurt their feelings.

In my opinion, a topic like this is why alot of young people with limited disposable income tend to shy away from 4wheeling. I have to admit I was one of those people at one time. I didn't realize that people will regurgitate what they have heard before, having no actually knowledge about how different variables could possibly affect the outcome. I would expect that type of response on pirate, but not here.


I would greatly appreciate if anyone one else can share information or experience about using 4340 shafts in a 4cyl tj and a full case locker!
 
Hi, John.

That little trick isn't untraceable....

I vote we make it 3 and final
 
So looking at ECGS website, what you are wanting to do to a Dana 35 is just under $1000. Or you can get a bolt in Dana 44 for a TJ from them for $1245. Spend the extra and don't look back.
 
Ron said:
Hi, John.

That little trick isn't untraceable....

I vote we make it 3 and final
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I am not sure this reply is intended for me?
But earlier you asked if I was John.
I can assure you my name isn't John, and can only imagine you think I am someone else who upset you?
 
Be hard to find anyone with the same setup because most people know better than putting any money into a d35. I can tell you that for several years I run a stock d35 with 307 gears no locker with 35 inch bloggers and never broke anything. Had a 4.2 and drove accordingly. Honestly though if I were you I would not put a penny in that axle. You will be much happier on the trail with something you don't have to worry about and baby along. If you don't lock it you may be ok for a while but if you keep wheeling you will eventually swap it guaranteed so might as well do it right the first time and save some money.
 
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junkxj said:
I would like to thank everyone for the thoughts, suggestions, and opinions. I do apologize if I worded my question in such a way as to sound like I wanted someone to tell me my idea was right. I do understand the reputation the dana 35 has, and everything I have seen reinforces this.

Funny thing is....

Not one first hand experience out of all these replys that has said I broke something with a full case locker, and 4340 shafts. Several broken stock shafts, broken spider gears.
The closest reply to my question was a broken d35 super shaft, with a lunch box locker. The problem with this is that the 30 spline super 35 shafts will not work with lunch box lockers...

Flame away!
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Thing is, it's not the super strong shafts that save you. Strong shafts are built for torsion, not flex. The housing and tubes flex and that causes the break.

You did get first hand experiences, you just don't want to hear it.
 
VortecJeep said:
So looking at ECGS website, what you are wanting to do to a Dana 35 is just under $1000. Or you can get a bolt in Dana 44 for a TJ from them for $1245. Spend the extra and don't look back.
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I have previous looked at the dana 44 from ecgs, and did consider it. But best I can tell the axle would end up being almost $2300 with 4.88 gears and a lock right, including their handling charges.

What I am considering using would be less than $600. A full case locker from ebay for a little over $300, axle shafts are a little over $200 from amazon, and I bought the 4.88 gears on ebay for less than $50 shipped.

The difference in $2300 and $600 is the reason I asked if anyone else had used a similar setup. To me, $1700 is a lot of money, considering I only payed $2200 for the tj to start with....

I do thank you for the idea on the dana 44, like I said I have considered it. But at this point it's just a little more money than I would like to spend.
 
witchdoctor said:
Be hard to find anyone with the same setup because most people know better than putting any money into a d35. I can tell you that for several years I run a stock d35 with 307 gears no locker with 35 inch bloggers and never broke anything. Had a 4.2 and drove accordingly. Honestly though if I were you I would not put a penny in that axle. You will be much happier on the trail with something you don't have to worry about and baby along. If you don't lock it you may be ok for a while but if you keep wheeling you will eventually swap it guaranteed so might as well do it right the first time and save some money.
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I do appreciate the input, and experience you shared. I have no doubts that if I keep my tj long enough I would end up swapping the dana 35 out. I am impressed you were able to run 35 boggers on a stock axle, that seems like it would be stressful.
 
mbalbritton said:
Thing is, it's not the super strong shafts that save you. Strong shafts are built for torsion, not flex. The housing and tubes flex and that causes the break.

You did get first hand experiences, you just don't want to hear it.
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I must have missed that post. As far as I can remember, not one person has said they broke a 4340 dana 35 axle shaft, using a full case locker, on a 4cyl tj with under 35 inch tires. Plenty of broken stock shafts, spider gears, and the such, parts I don't intend to have in my jeep.
 
VortecJeep said:
So looking at ECGS website, what you are wanting to do to a Dana 35 is just under $1000. Or you can get a bolt in Dana 44 for a TJ from them for $1245. Spend the extra and don't look back.
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That's really the answer to the question. Sure, a full case locker fixes the weak carrier/spider gears. The Super 35 kit brings D44 size axles to the party. The 4cyl doesn't make much power, so that's helpful. And staying under 33" doesn't hurt.

But you moved the most likely point of failure from the spider gears and axle shafts to the R&P and the housing. It might last forever. But if it breaks, it's going to bring the suck.
 
shawn said:
That's really the answer to the question. Sure, a full case locker fixes the weak carrier/spider gears. The Super 35 kit brings D44 size axles to the party. The 4cyl doesn't make much power, so that's helpful. And staying under 33" doesn't hurt.



But you moved the most likely point of failure from the spider gears and axle shafts to the R&P and the housing. It might last forever. But if it breaks, it's going to bring the suck.
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I 100% agree with you. And the fact of the matter is it would be a pain in the ass to break a ring and pinion on the trail.
It's just hard for me to think it would be very likely to break a axle housing with mild wheeling and a low weight/power truck on small tires. But I am sure it can happen.
 
junkxj said:
It's just hard for me to think it would be very likely to break a axle housing with mild wheeling and a low weight/power truck on small tires. But I am sure it can happen.
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The failure is going to be spinning the tubes in the pumpkin. That's my bet, anyway.
 
shawn said:
The failure is going to be spinning the tubes in the pumpkin. That's my bet, anyway.
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Is there a way to help prevent this on a dana 35, the way a 8.8 should have the tubes welded to the center section?
 
All I can say is wow, at this point 43 replys, 330 views and not one person can say I ran the setup you asked about and have any real world experience. I understand that the common understanding in the 4wheeling world is you should always run ton axles, any less makes you a newbie.

But, if anyone is willing to share from this point on, please for the sake of argument, keep it first person experience with the axles, locker, vehicle weight, engine size, and tires size I referenced in the opening post. I know ,as stated before, that this is NOT the ideal setup for my truck, just looking for anyone who has experience with what I suggested.

Thank you!
 
I had a friend run a D35 in his TJ. I don't remember what motor he had in it. He was running 34s and had it regeared with a lunchbox. We went to URE for my first time. He destroyed his ring/pinion coming down Daniel. Not up the hard stuff mind you, he went over a water berm on the way down and it locked up. We had to change his ring/pinion out in the gravel parking lot at Daniel and make several trips to Galloways/Advance. We were literally pulling out chunks of gearing. It was a pain in the ass. I drove 3.5hrs for 30 mins of wheeling all because of that shitty axle.

I think the reason there is no first hand experience is because nobody runs them. Seriously. Not being an ass at all. I had an 87 YJ with the 4.2 with a D35 in it. Stock gearing on 33's. I tiptoed around that axle for a year. I swapped a 8.8 in with discs and never had an issue after that.

You already have the 8.8 correct? If so, run it. You get a better tube, better R/P, better brakes etc. Your first post stated that you don't want to hear about polishing a turd. Well, that is what it is when you put money into a D35. You don't have to be on tons to wheel. I'm building D44s for my Willys and it will stay on them for a long time and it will get beat on and abused regularly once its finished.

What gearing are you shooting for? What is the 8.8 geared now? You can probably find a gearset on here or used very cheap. If i remember from my 8.8 install, the 8.8 uses a flange to connect to the driveshaft. I found mine at the junkyard for $5. Then all are you have left is the gear install. There are many members on here that install gear sets and can get yours done pretty cheaply.

Better to spend a little bit of money now and have peace of mind than changing out a gearset in the middle of a gravel parking lot in the summer and ruining your trip.

Just my $.02
 
junkxj said:
All I can say is wow, at this point 43 replys, 330 views and not one person can say I ran the setup you asked about and have any real world experience. I understand that the common understanding in the 4wheeling world is you should always run ton axles, any less makes you a newbie.

But, if anyone is willing to share from this point on, please for the sake of argument, keep it first person experience with the axles, locker, vehicle weight, engine size, and tires size I referenced in the opening post. I know ,as stated before, that this is NOT the ideal setup for my truck, just looking for anyone who has experience with what I suggested.

Thank you!
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You came on here asking for a very specific real world example of a setup that you are trying to justify to yourself. I think you know it is not going to end well but you are trying very hard to justify it to yourself. I agree with what others have said, the reason you are not finding someone with this exact same setup is everyone on here does their research first, listens to the veterans, and spends their money appropriately. Many have given you good advice, but you keep looking for the needle in a haystack. If you find the one person that ran this exact same setup and they said "it was horrible, I regret it to this day" I am afraid you would then say, "well that is just one experience, I am sure others have had success"

I say, it is your money and you spend it how you wish. If your mind is made up, it really doesn't matter what anyone else says. I am all for thinking outside the box, and I hope it works well for you.
 
Nothing's is going to change your mind because of the money and I get that so you need to go ahead with your plan. I don't think you will have any problems with that setup wheeling the way you describe. When your wheeling progresses you can do something different then. The advice everyone is giving you is not experience with that exact setup but experience with knowing the progression of this sport and knowing that if you stay in it you will be throwing that axle and the money you put in it away one day but if you can't afford it right now then you gota do what you gota do. Best bet is hold off and save up a while and save your self money in the long run,that way when all your friends are hitting that long steep climb at 6000 rpm you can too cause you will haft do it . Ask me how I know this?
 
Thank you for the advice. I do not have my mind set on anything, if I did I would have already ordered the parts and they would be in the dana 35. It does sound like the ring and pinion are the next week point of the 35. If there isn't anything that can be done to keep it together, than like has been said, it's not worth upgrading the axle.

I ended up selling the 8.8 I bought, I think to someone on this forum? I just couldn't justify finishing the build on it. The gearset, full case locker, and new drive shaft was going to be another $1200. But I guess that's what having a decent axle costs.

Sounds like my jeep needs to stay on road, till I can justify spending a good chunk of change on it....

Thank you to everyone who took the time to listen to my question, and add positive criticism when needed.
 
Just wheel the D35 and bring spares.

Or buy a take-out D44 or 8.8 where somebody else already paid for the gears and lockers.
 
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