The Dana 35 thread

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I didn't meet all of your requirements, but I had an ARB full case locker in my D35 and stock shafts and a Con-Ferr truss. I busted the case of the locker wide open. I do think that better shafts and a GOOD truss can lessen the likelihood of breakage, but it's gonna break. The busted ARB was the final straw for me. Prior to that, I had broken the following:
Stock shafts
Spider gears
4.56 gearset
Open carrier

I got tired of replacing parts, regardless of the cost. The only good thing about a D35 is that it's light enough to pull and replace easily.
 
I didn't meet all of your requirements, but I had an ARB full case locker in my D35 and stock shafts and a Con-Ferr truss. I busted the case of the locker wide open. I do think that better shafts and a GOOD truss can lessen the likelihood of breakage, but it's gonna break. The busted ARB was the final straw for me. Prior to that, I had broken the following:
Stock shafts
Spider gears
4.56 gearset
Open carrier

I got tired of replacing parts, regardless of the cost. The only good thing about a D35 is that it's light enough to pull and replace easily.

May I ask what size tires the jeep had when the arb broke? Did arb warranty the diff?
And did your jeep have the stroker engine and nv4500 when this happened?

Sorry for all the questions, thank you for sharing your experience. Very helpful!
 
I have no first hand knowledge of the specific case you are looking for, but I can tell you a buddy of mine bought a factory TJ D44 rear with a limited slip for $600. May take a little bit to hunt down, but just something else to consider.

I personally would not wheel a d35 if I didn't have a truck and trailer ready to tow me home. The fun would be gone. I broke my yj d35 shaft with a 4 banger and 30x9.5s, but that was a yj not a tj, stock shafts and open carrier so that info is irrelevant...
 
I have no first hand knowledge of the specific case you are looking for, but I can tell you a buddy of mine bought a factory TJ D44 rear with a limited slip for $600. May take a little bit to hunt down, but just something else to consider.

I personally would not wheel a d35 if I didn't have a truck and trailer ready to tow me home. The fun would be gone. I broke my yj d35 shaft with a 4 banger and 30x9.5s, but that was a yj not a tj, stock shafts and open carrier so that info is irrelevant...

I have actively been looking out for a bolt in dana 44 for the tj sinice I bought it. They just seem so over priced for the amount of strength gained, at least in my opinion. But if I could find a deal on one I would try it for sure.

To be honest, I would trailer my jeep any where more than 10 miles from home, not because of breaking stuff, more that I don't trust the jeep in general.

Thank you for the input.
 
You can buy a built axle cheaper than building one.watch on here long enough and someone will be selling a built 44 or 8.8 when they realize they Should have built a 60 or 14 bolt. Again ask me how I know. But the point is a little patience can save you money and you will end up a lot better rig too
 
May I ask what size tires the jeep had when the arb broke? Did arb warranty the diff?
And did your jeep have the stroker engine and nv4500 when this happened?

Sorry for all the questions, thank you for sharing your experience. Very helpful!
31s or 32s, can't remember. Yes, ARB warranteed it (and actually let me get a D60 ARB instead for a small fee). Stock engine, stock transmission.
 
You can buy a built axle cheaper than building one.watch on here long enough and someone will be selling a built 44 or 8.8 when they realize they Should have built a 60 or 14 bolt. Again ask me how I know. But the point is a little patience can save you money and you will end up a lot better rig too

It would be for sure cheaper to find a used axle than try building it yourself. The only thing that makes me weary about going that route is if someone is wanting a bigger axle, chances are they have beat on the old one hard enough to break parts, which could lead to problems with that axle down the road .

And I agree 100% about being patient. I have been slowly buying stuff for my tj over the last year. Only buy used, or at a very good deal.
 
31s or 32s, can't remember. Yes, ARB warranteed it (and actually let me get a D60 ARB instead for a small fee). Stock engine, stock transmission.

That's would make me question the strength of an arb locker. I have mostly heard good things about everything they make, and I have liked all the OME stuff I have owned. But, breaking a full Carrier locker with that small of a tire makes you think...
 
Keep a welder on hand for when ya spiders break! Insta locker if you get lucky and one wedges in a good spot and not r&p lol I beat the piss out of my d35 and d30 just grab a backup their easy to swap if ya break it I was getting em for $50 from one scrap yard! Any tire bigger than a 33 and I'd say go bigger!
 
Hell for the right price you could buy my built Rubicon 44 F/R and I'll go to 60's.

All I can really add is it sounds like you are dead set on running a POS D35 so rock on. You could have an 8.8 built and bolted in for cheaper than bandaiding a shitty 35 and a lot less worry on the trails.
 
I have actively been looking out for a bolt in dana 44 for the tj sinice I bought it. They just seem so over priced for the amount of strength gained, at least in my opinion. But if I could find a deal on one I would try it for sure.

To be honest, I would trailer my jeep any where more than 10 miles from home, not because of breaking stuff, more that I don't trust the jeep in general.

Thank you for the input.

See your bolded statement. If you don't trust the jeep right now to drive 10 miles from home, why in the world would you throw good money at a D35 to get it "built" and still have a terrible rear axle? If you want to wheel and not worry about breaking it, get a 8.8 or a TJ D44. Is this your daily driver?
 
Hell for the right price you could buy my built Rubicon 44 F/R and I'll go to 60's.

All I can really add is it sounds like you are dead set on running a POS D35 so rock on. You could have an 8.8 built and bolted in for cheaper than bandaiding a shitty 35 and a lot less worry on the trails.

To repeat what I have said , more than once, is that I am not dead set on using a dana 35. Just asking for first hand experience with the setup i purposed.you have obviously not taken the time to read even the small percentage of this thread to give an appropriate response.

And the statement that I can have a built 8.8 in my jeep for less than what I purposed (which you have no idea what is, again because of not reading what is relative info.) Is false.
It will cost me at the very minimum $1400 to have a built 8.8 in my jeep. I made the mistake of previously buying a 8.8 ( again, already stated before) before I actually figured a firm cost to have it in the jeep.
 
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See your bolded statement. If you don't trust the jeep right now to drive 10 miles from home, why in the world would you throw good money at a D35 to get it "built" and still have a terrible rear axle? If you want to wheel and not worry about breaking it, get a 8.8 or a TJ D44. Is this your daily driver?

Instead of pointing out, again , how you have in no way addressed what I asked for as far as information goes. I will ask a question. Do you, as it would seem, think a 8.8 or 44 is unbreakable? Please stop me if I am wrong, but unless I missed something that is what I get from your response.

This isn't my daily, but I do drive it to work and around town when it's nice weather.
 
Okay. No real world experience with a Dana Turdy five with a 4 Banger. All I know is I broke my old D35 4:56 gears and open rolling on 33's on no more than what I'd call a logging road. So I built what they call a super 35 with a ARB 4:56 gears and broke the shit out of it again on some mild trails. Went to a TJ D44 and 35's with a super 44 kit and a Detroit and never had another issue as long as I owned it and the new owner hasn't had any issues at all. The moral of this story is your going to spend more in the long run trying to use a D35 but what do we all know. And I did read the entire thread and what I got out of it is you must be related to Fuller!
 
Instead of pointing out, again , how you have in no way addressed what I asked for as far as information goes. I will ask a question. Do you, as it would seem, think a 8.8 or 44 is unbreakable? Please stop me if I am wrong, but unless I missed something that is what I get from your response.

This isn't my daily, but I do drive it to work and around town when it's nice weather.

I did address your question with my Buddy's TJ. You know, the one we picked pieces of ring and pinion gear out of the housing after it grenaded?

8.8s and D44s are not unbreakable. Everything can break, D60s, rockwells, they all have their breaking point. A D35 has a very high chance of breaking something regardless what you have upgraded because of its design. The point I am making is that 8.8s, 44s are stronger, give you better options, and gives you peace of mind on the trail. When I go wheel, I don't want to constantly think about something breaking or how I'm gonna get it home or the holdup/headaches from other people when my junk is broken in the middle of the trail. Thats why I'm taking the time to build my D44s even if its $$. It will be worth it and when I get talked into a LS1 and one tons I can get some money back out of my set. People give D35s away for free all the time.

Nobody builds D35s, because there is no point. Once you drop $500-1000 into the D35 and then wheel it and break it, you will then either throw more money into it or build a stronger axle. Why take the chance? Why spend all that money on something that everyone knows is weak.

This has to be a late Aprils Fools Joke....
 
Don't waste money on the 4340s or a locker for you 35. I did this exact setup that you're talking about, in my 4 banger tj. 23 spline 4340s on 34 tsls.
One mild urban wheeling trip and everything kersploded!! Cost me lots of money when it broke. Had to get a new rear end,pay for a tow bill...and pay a ticket for a hydrant parking violation.
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Here ya go this would solve all your problems... waggy d44/Corp 14ff c&c $300
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Don't waste money on the 4340s or a locker for you 35. I did this exact setup that you're talking about, in my 4 banger tj. 23 spline 4340s on 34 tsls.
One mild urban wheeling trip and everything kersploded!! Cost me lots of money when it broke. Had to get a new rear end,pay for a tow bill...and pay a ticket for a hydrant parking violation. View attachment 244862
Horse shit, that's a Sarha, we all know they have that rare Jeep V6 engine.
 
Don't waste money on the 4340s or a locker for you 35. I did this exact setup that you're talking about, in my 4 banger tj. 23 spline 4340s on 34 tsls.
One mild urban wheeling trip and everything kersploded!! Cost me lots of money when it broke. Had to get a new rear end,pay for a tow bill...and pay a ticket for a hydrant parking violation. View attachment 244862
Wow... that sucks I had a d30 seal go bad, it drained all the oil out and locked up on me going 30mph to dead stop busted the front shocks and my nose wasn't that bad tho!
 
This isn't my daily
If that's the case then why wouldn't you want to build it up stronger than something that's in every DD jeep? Seems like you have a good budget hell go 60/60 at min 44/44 if not a daily driver... just trying to help! I believe my first post was about a d35 and I'm positive the piece of mind knowing ya got a 44 especially built one instead of 35 in the back is pretty nice!!
 
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