"The Ice Cream Getter"

tlucier said:
How did you keep your garage so clean throughout your build? Awesome build and as others have said, very nice clean work! Great job!
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Thank you, and I am glad you noticed my garage stayed clean. I am a bit of a neat freak/OCD kind of guy. I stored most of my parts in my Shed behind my house. It was a lot of work to keep the place organized throughout the build. It feels like I spent as much time cleaning and organizing as I did building the thing.
 
Man, that is one of, if not the nicest, street/trail build I have ever seen. Great attention to detail! Should be a fantastic summer ride, on or off road. :driver:
 
Kamel said:
Man, that is one of, if not the nicest, street/trail build I have ever seen. Great attention to detail! Should be a fantastic summer ride, on or off road. :driver:
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Thanks! I really appreciate it.
 
Great job so far, maybe I'll see it around town.
 
I am really interested in the parking brake set up you have plumbed in. Is it a kit? I would love top get rid of all the mechanical pedal/cables from my YJ. More info would be great. Makes me want Ice Cream!
 
mncdriver said:
I am really interested in the parking brake set up you have plumbed in. Is it a kit? I would love top get rid of all the mechanical pedal/cables from my YJ. More info would be great. Makes me want Ice Cream!
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It is called a Park-Lok and you can get it from Speedway Motors. It is more or less a line lock from what I can tell. I just plumbed it in line in the rear brake line. You apply the brake pedal, push down on the park-lok knob, then release the brake pedal and the rear brakes stay applied. To release the brakes, depress the brake pedal again and pull the knob back up. I have tested it in the driveway and it works. I am unsure how reliable it will be and I am unsure if I would trust it on a decent sized hill.
 
Newcomer said:
It is called a Park-Lok and you can get it from Speedway Motors. It is more or less a line lock from what I can tell. I just plumbed it in line in the rear brake line. You apply the brake pedal, push down on the park-lok knob, then release the brake pedal and the rear brakes stay applied. To release the brakes, depress the brake pedal again and pull the knob back up. I have tested it in the driveway and it works. I am unsure how reliable it will be and I am unsure if I would trust it on a decent sized hill.
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As someone who has had this type of system, don't trust it. My jeep found $3500 in the rear bumper/trunk/unibody of a Nissan Maxima because I apparently forgot to put it in gear (though I'm still convinced it got bumped and knocked it out of gear). It holds ok for about 5 minutes, but eventually starts to lose pressure. Mine is a Jamar brand, but there are others on here who have similar products and experiences.
 
jeepinmatt said:
As someone who has had this type of system, don't trust it. My jeep found $3500 in the rear bumper/trunk/unibody of a Nissan Maxima because I apparently forgot to put it in gear (though I'm still convinced it got bumped and knocked it out of gear). It holds ok for about 5 minutes, but eventually starts to lose pressure. Mine is a Jamar brand, but there are others on here who have similar products and experiences.
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I kind of had a feeling. Thanksn man.
 
Darn, I figured it was too good to be true. Sorry to invade your build. Great Job so far! Thanks.
 
Newcomer said:
I kind of had a feeling. Thanksn man.
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A good quality ball valve rated for 5k psi or so works very well. Same principle, depress the pedal, close the valve. Open the valve to release the brakes. Can also be used to lock out the rears for power braking
 
jeepinmatt said:
As someone who has had this type of system, don't trust it. My jeep found $3500 in the rear bumper/trunk/unibody of a Nissan Maxima because I apparently forgot to put it in gear (though I'm still convinced it got bumped and knocked it out of gear). It holds ok for about 5 minutes, but eventually starts to lose pressure. Mine is a Jamar brand, but there are others on here who have similar products and experiences.
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Agreed, I would never trust a line lock as a parking brake, they all tend to leak down over time. Since you are leaving it 5speed, I would feel comfortable using it combined with leaving it in gear when you park. As far as using it alone, I wouldn't trust it any more than maybe on fairly level ground for a quick trip into a store and back if you must leave it running.

Not only that, but "legally" you won't pass inspection:
§ 20-124. Brakes. said:
(c) Every motor vehicle when operated on a highway shall be equipped with brakes adequate to control the movement of and to stop and hold such vehicle, and shall have all originally equipped brakes in good working order, including two separate means of applying the brakes. If these two separate means of applying the brakes are connected in any way, they shall be so constructed that failure of any one part of the operating mechanism shall not leave the motor vehicle without brakes.
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Since the line lock operates off the hydraulic brake pressure still, it is not a separate means of applying the brakes, if you have a leak and lose hydraulic pressure, the line lock will do nothing, whereas a mechanically operated parking brake will still function.
 
GCncsuHD said:
Agreed, I would never trust a line lock as a parking brake, they all tend to leak down over time. Since you are leaving it 5speed, I would feel comfortable using it combined with leaving it in gear when you park. As far as using it alone, I wouldn't trust it any more than maybe on fairly level ground for a quick trip into a store and back if you must leave it running.

Not only that, but "legally" you won't pass inspection:

Since the line lock operates off the hydraulic brake pressure still, it is not a separate means of applying the brakes, if you have a leak and lose hydraulic pressure, the line lock will do nothing, whereas a mechanically operated parking brake will still function.
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I also agree. The only reason it is even plumbed it in there is because I had it already laying around from another project. I still have all of the mechanical parking brake components and can install them at anytime. The inspection process is not an issue for me. Thanks again....
 
Man I wish I could weld like that, last time I tried it looked like a baby trying to spell his name. How well did that Raptor liner lay down? Ive been thinking about the same thing, but was worried about the texture trapping dirt or being impossible to clean like some bed liners. Jeep looks great though, I hope to have the ability to do this one day.
 
wavygravy said:
Man I wish I could weld like that, last time I tried it looked like a baby trying to spell his name. How well did that Raptor liner lay down? Ive been thinking about the same thing, but was worried about the texture trapping dirt or being impossible to clean like some bed liners. Jeep looks great though, I hope to have the ability to do this one day.
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The Raptor liner is very easy to spray. It was the first time I had sprayed bed liner and I had no issues with it. There is a good possibility that once it gets dirty I may not be able to get it clean again. I guess only time will tell. They say to spray it anywhere from 40-70 psi. The higher the pressure the more texture. I sprayed mine at 55 psi. If you wanted it less textured you could spray it at 40 psi and it may cleanup better. If you sprayed it a color that would hide the dirt it may look better longer.
 
Newcomer said:
The Raptor liner is very easy to spray. It was the first time I had sprayed bed liner and I had no issues with it. There is a good possibility that once it gets dirty I may not be able to get it clean again. I guess only time will tell. They say to spray it anywhere from 40-70 psi. The higher the pressure the more texture. I sprayed mine at 55 psi. If you wanted it less textured you could spray it at 40 psi and it may cleanup better. If you sprayed it a color that would hide the dirt it may look better longer.
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This is what I needed to hear, might redo my runner with it. It adds a degree of badassness :D how much did you pay for you kit if you don't mind me askin and where from?


Sent from my mobile Toyota base using Tapatalk
 
Redneck92 said:
This is what I needed to hear, might redo my runner with it. It adds a degree of badassness :D how much did you pay for you kit if you don't mind me askin and where from?


Sent from my mobile Toyota base using Tapatalk
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That is the best part, it was cheap. I bought the kit, which comes with 4 bottles of liner, 1 can or hardener, and the gun to spray it with. The kit was $115 from Amazon. But, after I bought it off Amazon I disovered that the local paint supply house in Salisbury had the same kit sitting on the shelf for the same price and I would not have had to pay shipping. Either way, it is a deal. So, once you buy the initial kit and you have the gun, if you want to spray another truck, you just have to buy the bottles of liner and the hardener. Another thing to consider for initial investment, I bought an inline air dryer that just threads onto the bottom of the gun and a pressure regulator that also threads on the end of the gun. Those probably added another $40 to the investment. One more piece to the puzzle is if you want to spray your truck a specific color rather than black, you buy the "tintable" version of the liner and then have your local paint house mix up your base color of choice and add it into the bottle of tintable liner. When you have your base color mixed up, it needs to be a urethane base toner and have the paint shop leave the binders out of the paint. The binders are in the liner.

Initial Raptor Liner Kit with gun - $115
Inline air dryer and Regulator - $40
1 pint of base color with no binders added - $40
Total $195
 
Newcomer said:
...But, after I bought it off Amazon I disovered that the local paint supply house in Salisbury had the same kit sitting on the shelf for the same price and I would not have had to pay shipping...
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Which supply house had this in stock? I have been thinking of using this on our 69 K5 we are rebuilding.
 
GCncsuHD said:
Which supply house had this in stock? I have been thinking of using this on our 69 K5 we are rebuilding.
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Tru-Kolor on 29 in Salisbury. It is on the right side of 29 when headed south into China Grove.
The guys name is Mike Peeler, I believe.
 
I'll have to check that out, thanks.
 
Small update:

I ran the fuel injection supply hoses from the frame rail up to the fuel rail on the intake. I just made some lines using Dorman QDs, fuel injection hose, and fuel injection hose clamps. The only trick to this was I had to order a QD that would adapt from 5/16" to 3/8" on the supply line since the Jeep supply was 5/16" and the Chevy was 3/8". The return for the Chevy and the Jeep were both 5/16". For those guys who are wondering, my 5.3 is a 2002 so it is NOT a "returnless" engine, it has a regulator on the fuel rail on the intake.

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Next I decided it was time to tackle the wiring harness on the 5.3. I decided I was going to strip it down, remove the uneeded wires, and pull out the wires needed to make it stand alone, then rewrap the harness with new split loom so it would look as clean as possible. I have not completed this yet but I did get the wires I don't need stripped out and the wires I need to hook up to battery power and keyed powered pulled out. I also pulled out wires for the tach, check engine light, VSS, Fuel pump, serial data and the TCC brake switch. I still need to either create a small fuse block and relay center or try to tie into the Jeep block. I will tackle that next. Here are a couple pics.

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Wow, that took some patience!!

BTW,
Is that a mechanical speedo drive in you t-case?
 
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