"The Ice Cream Getter"

Wow, that took some patience!!

BTW,
Is that a mechanical speedo drive in you t-case?

Yeah, it is not hard by any means, just time consuming. I just sat on my couch on a Saturday afternoon and tore into it.

Yes, the T-case is an 89 so it is a mechanical speedo. I need to purchase an inline VSS signal generator that will adapt to the T-case and output the VSS signal the engine needs. One of the other remaining items to purchase.
 
Any chance you could use an electrical unit from say a '94 Cherokee? I happen to need a mechanical.
 
Any chance you could use an electrical unit from say a '94 Cherokee? I happen to need a mechanical.

I never really looked into that actually. I already have a mechanical speedo so I will probably just go with the VSS adapter.
 
Minor Update:

I have not worked on the Jeep a lot in the last two weeks. I spent some time reorganizing my garage/tools/junk laying around to give myself some more space. I did finish wiring the GM Harness into the Jeep using the Jeep Distribution block and Relay center. I rerouted the PCM harness and put the GM PCM underneath the battery on the passenger side. I put it here to kind of hide it because I wanted the install to look as factory as possible. This way you will have to look to find it and it is not “in your face" when you lift the hood. I still have to wire in the OBD II port and then go into the computer and turn off the VATS and disable some things I eliminated. Next up is wiring the Auto Meter gauges and installing the dash.
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This thing is beautiful. Very clean install. Perhaps I missed it, but what throttle cable did you use?
 
This thing is beautiful. Very clean install. Perhaps I missed it, but what throttle cable did you use?
Thanks man
I was able to use the stock Jeep throttle cable. The only modification I made was to the cable holding bracket right before the throttle body. I filed the circular hole in the bracket that was meant for the transmission cable to a square hole and ran the Jeep throttle cable through it and to the side mount on the throttle cam.

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Get build. I am also in the process of installing a 5.3 and ax15 in my Yj.

I had a question on the Novak adapter. I purchased the same kit from them 375-3 and have it installed. But I noticed that you are using a different flywheel then stock. I was not advised that I would need anything other than a stock flywheel and I am having problems with clutch disenagment. The clutch doesn't disengage until the pedal is an inch or so off of the floor.

What flywheel are you using? And also what clutch are you using?
 
Get build. I am also in the process of installing a 5.3 and ax15 in my Yj.

I had a question on the Novak adapter. I purchased the same kit from them 375-3 and have it installed. But I noticed that you are using a different flywheel then stock. I was not advised that I would need anything other than a stock flywheel and I am having problems with clutch disenagment. The clutch doesn't disengage until the pedal is an inch or so off of the floor.

What flywheel are you using? And also what clutch are you using?

Yes, I am using a Novak Flywheel, when I called and talked to them (Ryan) he said that their flywheel needed to be used with this adapter plate. I am using the LUK 04-049 Clutch set. (Chevrolet 79-84, I believe). My AX-15 is an 89 so it is an internal slave that I am using. I have obsiously not driven the Jeep yet but I do have the clutch system bled and the pedal feels okay. I hope my engagement will be right when I go to drive it.
 
Yes, I am using a Novak Flywheel, when I called and talked to them (Ryan) he said that their flywheel needed to be used with this adapter plate. I am using the LUK 04-049 Clutch set. (Chevrolet 79-84, I believe). My AX-15 is an 89 so it is an internal slave that I am using. I have obsiously not driven the Jeep yet but I do have the clutch system bled and the pedal feels okay. I hope my engagement will be right when I go to drive it.

Im sure yours will work well since Novak actually sold you ALL the correct parts. I am running the GM stock flywheel and I have a feeling it is to short.

You wouldn't happen to have the part number for the flywheel would you?
 
Im sure yours will work well since Novak actually sold you ALL the correct parts. I am running the GM stock flywheel and I have a feeling it is to short.

You wouldn't happen to have the part number for the flywheel would you?

My invoice from Novak says the Part numberfor the flywheel is #460535. I cannot find it on their website anywhere. BUT, if go to Summit and type that part number in you will find it. It is a Mcleod Flywheel for the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 engines and it is 0.400" thicker than normal. Check it out. Summit Price is $405. I paid $362 from Novak. Hope this helps you out...
 
Im sure yours will work well since Novak actually sold you ALL the correct parts. I am running the GM stock flywheel and I have a feeling it is to short.

You wouldn't happen to have the part number for the flywheel would you?
My invoice from Novak says the Part numberfor the flywheel is #460535. I cannot find it on their website anywhere. BUT, if go to Summit and type that part number in you will find it. It is a Mcleod Flywheel for the 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 engines and it is 0.400" thicker than normal. Check it out. Summit Price is $405. I paid $362 from Novak. Hope this helps you out...
When you say you are running the "stock" flywheel, are you running a LS1/6/2 flywheel, or the truck flywheel that came on the 4.8s and the 6.0s? They are different, the car flywheel is too short, but the truck flywheel is the 0.400" thicker since the NV3500 in the 4.8 trucks and the NV4500 in the 6.0s still used the old configuration. I am using a Sachs stock replacement flywheel for the 4.8/6.0 trucks in my 67 Chevrolet with a 5.3 and a saginaw 3 spd, and it was a perfect fit. It is less than $60 at O'reilly's. The part number is NFW1050. It also lets you use the larger heavy duty 12" clutch whereas the McLeod only allows a 11" clutch.
 
When you say you are running the "stock" flywheel, are you running a LS1/6/2 flywheel, or the truck flywheel that came on the 4.8s and the 6.0s? They are different, the car flywheel is too short, but the truck flywheel is the 0.400" thicker since the NV3500 in the 4.8 trucks and the NV4500 in the 6.0s still used the old configuration. I am using a Sachs stock replacement flywheel for the 4.8/6.0 trucks in my 67 Chevrolet with a 5.3 and a saginaw 3 spd, and it was a perfect fit. It is less than $60 at O'reilly's. The part number is NFW1050. It also lets you use the larger heavy duty 12" clutch whereas the McLeod only allows a 11" clutch.

I am currently running a 2004 4.8 flywheel (NFW1050) and clutch (LUK 04-205). I currently have an extra inch to make up in my throw out to diaphragm. I was able to determine the .60" of that inch is because I have the incorrect clutch. I need the older style clutch the Newcomer is using (LUK 04-049), it is .60" installed. Which leaves me with .40" to make up. Where? I don't know yet.

I have been researching the Mcleod 460535 flywheel. I have come across conflicting information on if the McLeod flywheel is .400" thicker than the LS1 flywheel or the 6.0/4.8 truck flywheel. I believe the McLeod and the stock 4.8/6.0 truck flywheels are the same thickness. I intend to talk with McLeod/Novak today to get the final word.

Basically I have been fighting this issue for 2 weeks, and have pulled the trans 10-12 times now due to Novak providing me with incorrect information. Additionally I have spent a few hundred trying to correct this issue. The most irritating part has been the continued incorrect information I have received from Novak. And I only now have found what I believe to be the correct answer thanks to this thread. Not to mention that the OP was told to buy a $400 custom flywheel when a parts store $60 flywheel would do the same thing.

Anyhow. Sorry for the tangent. Great build.
 
The 4.8/6.0 and the McLeod flywheel are the same thickness, they are both 0.400" thicker than the LS Car flywheel.

Is the issue possibly in the size throwout bearing you are using? There are two available IIRC, one 1-1/4" and one 1-3/4". Also, again, depending on your setup, there are longer pivot ball studs to get it where it needs to be.
 
The 4.8/6.0 and the McLeod flywheel are the same thickness, they are both 0.400" thicker than the LS Car flywheel.

Is the issue possibly in the size throwout bearing you are using? There are two available IIRC, one 1-1/4" and one 1-3/4". Also, again, depending on your setup, there are longer pivot ball studs to get it where it needs to be.

I am using the stock Jeep throw out bearing, it measures 1.60" from fork face to the front face. To my knowledge there are no other Jeep throwout bearings for the YJ/TJ external slave setup.
 
I am using the stock Jeep throw out bearing, it measures 1.60" from fork face to the front face. To my knowledge there are no other Jeep throwout bearings for the YJ/TJ external slave setup.
Sorry I was thinking of options for GM transmissions.
 
Spoke to Novak this morning. And this is how they explained it. It is what they use in house and it works.

The McLeod flywheel is .400" further towards the engine. Not thicker than the 4.8/6.0 flywheel, but more offset. I ordered one so we will see. Also they use the older clutches, LUK 04-049 for a 10" and 04-064 for a 12". Stock Jeep everything else.
 
There were two different flywheels used on the GM trucks. 99-01 trucks with a 4.8 had the long crank, that flywheel is quite a bit more expensive than the NFW1050, but still readily available.

I went through all this stuff when I swapped in an LQ4 and took out an LR4. I went from the long crank to the short crank and just swapped out the flywheels.

It may not be pertinent to the situation, but it's all dependent on the year of the truck engine if you're dealing with all GM parts.
 
There were two different flywheels used on the GM trucks. 99-01 trucks with a 4.8 had the long crank, that flywheel is quite a bit more expensive than the NFW1050, but still readily available.

I went through all this stuff when I swapped in an LQ4 and took out an LR4. I went from the long crank to the short crank and just swapped out the flywheels.

It may not be pertinent to the situation, but it's all dependent on the year of the truck engine if you're dealing with all GM parts.
I'm not completely sure on the 4.8, but I know the long crank was only 99-00 on the LQ4, 01 got the shorter crank and aluminum heads on the 6.0.
 
That might have been it. Couldn't remember the cutoff year.
 
Not meaning to be a bitch (I apologize if I am being one) but his build thread is a little cluttered now. Let's get back to the build please.
 
Right on. I'm ready to see this jewel in some videos and doing burnouts :D
 
Another small update, not much:

I finally wired up my dash and got my gauges installed. Wired up my blinker indicators, check engine light, and the gauges. I need to still bolt in the heater controls, and hook up the oil and water senders under the hood. The radio will be in the Ammo Can. The Dash is stupid simple looking, just what I was going for.

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