The "official" LS1/LSx/5.3/6.0 tech thread

Infamous1 said:
so the intake flip is a pretty simple swap? I like the idea of the air filter under the dash on a buggy!
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Idea is great, the sound will drive you up the wall!!!
 
Seriously considering buying my own copy of HP Tuners. Anybody else have it?
 
just did a engine swap in my truck went from a 4.8 to 6.0 went with blackbear performance for the tuning couldn't be happier with the tune I got.
 
I did a 4.8 to 6.0 swap not long ago myself. I bought HP Tuners and I've been working with a tuner and emailing him data logs back and forth so he can dial in the truck. It's really nice to have the software, I use it pretty frequently. It'll come in handy when the old 4.8 gets a turbo and is under the hood of my S10 :D

Did you do anything to the motor before swapping it? You're not far away at all, we probably know several of the same crowd down in the county.
 
just curious!! i picked up a buggy with a 6.0 LQ4 and am fairly new to the performace aspect of these motors, so here is my question...there is no O2s and no mass air meter, so i am assuming it is just running open loop all the time so how effecient will this be??

scared to death!!!!!
 
Having no MAF means it SHOULD have a speed density tune that runs off the MAP sensor, but it should still have two 02s to run worth a crap. Sounds like they half assed it really. It'd run much better if the 02s could adjust LTFTs and STFTs. (Long amd short term fuel trims). Unless it was tuned very well, it probably runs rich or lean quite often. With no adjustment from the O2s, all of the fuel tables and probably the VE tables would have to be hand written.

Does it run well? It'll never be very easy on gas...it IS a 6.0 after all :D
 
it runs good, seems to have really good power figured out it has 26 lb injectors and worked over 706 casting heads, still unable to locate any block numbers, harness has O2S connectors zip tied to the fuel rails so i may weld the bungs in and try to sort it a little better, po said under hard throttle it would get hot due to leaning out so he ran it on cam2, any ideas on block identification?

scared to death!!!!!
 
Unless the PO swapped them out, 706 head were on 5.3s and 6.0s had 317 heads, regardless of LQ4 or LQ9. Unless it was a very early 6.0 with cast iron heads. The 26lb injectors are the stock size for 03+ engines, 99-02 used a 21lb injector. Is it DBW or cable throttle? Return style fuel system or returnless?

Behind the power steering pump/alternator bracket is where you will find the casting numbers. They are also on the back of the engine on the passeger's side. You'll either see a 4.8/5.3 (These two use the same block) or a 6.0 in big, unmistakeable lettering.

What I would suggest is taking it to someone who can tune it properly and putting the front 02s back in place. Start a thread in General Tech and post some pictures, I'll point out what I can to help.
 
i will try and get some pics, the po said it had worked over 706s on it for compression boost, it has a 90mm TB on a sheetmetal elbow with a cable on it, and a victor jr intake, it has gold billet roller rockers on it, .603 lift cam, hardened pushrods,and double vavelsprings, supposedly all from Texas Speed, i scanned it last nite and it had no codes stored, thanks for the info I will see if I can locate the casting on the block, the headgaskets do look very clean and new, and i can see the roller rockers in the oil fill hole, I am just trying to figure out my mess, (I did pick up a set of white top injectors for it)
 
Anybody got a source and part number for a good LS crank pulley (aka harmonic balancer) install tool? I know about the "get some m16x2 threaded rod and make your own" route. I'm not quite convinced that is my best option yet. I'm just curious as to what you guys have used.

Or if anyone in Charlotte has a tool that they would be willing to let me borrow for a few mins.... There could be beer involved in the deal. :beer: :beer: :D

Thanks.
 
You can use the old crank bolt to install it. Just make sure you pull it back out and install a new one to the final torque specs. They're fairly cheap.

I've never used a tool to install it, only to remove one.
 
That's cheap enough and it's a good excuse to get a new tool! I'd say get one.
 
Ordered. On the way. I'll report back when I get to use it. :beer: :beer:

Edit:The tool came in from Summit yesterday and it worked great. The pulley went on so smooth I kept thinking, "that can't be all, this is supposed to be a pain." I'm glad I went with that tool. The 5.3 is all back together and running now.
 
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sharksanddanger said:
I know most people use autos for this but what are the manual transmission options? I assume there are 4x4 transmissions that could have doublers behind them?
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BShore said:
What clutch are any of you running if anyone has a manual behind their LS? I am putting a 5.3 in front of a NV4500 (once I get it rebuilt) and am not sure what a good choice would be. Thanks. -Brandon
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Rich said:
If you MUST use a manual, a regular truck clutch should likely be just fine. low range takes a lot of the stress of it, as does the lighter weight of our rigs.

My favorite clutch is a torque converter. :bounce2:
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Has ANYONE done a manual? I haven't found a build thread on one yet.

What are the con's to using a 'Vette manual?
 
My truck is 5 speed from the factory. It's really easy. Buy the correct flywheel depending on what crank your motor has (short crank or long crank), get a clutch, and bolt up the transmission. Spec makes an awesome clutch. I found that out after I trashed 2 stock ones.

You know the Corvettes have a torque tube and the transmission is basically bolted to the rear end....right?

If you can bolt it up to an SBC, you can bolt it to an LS motor too. Same bellhousing pattern, they just moved one bolt's location.
 
EdJonesJeeper said:
Has ANYONE done a manual? I haven't found a build thread on one yet.

What are the con's to using a 'Vette manual?
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The vette manual is a T56, which is very long and was only available in a 2wd version to my knowledge. Probably also lacks a good low 1st gear, but OD on those is great.
 
jeepinmatt said:
The vette manual is a T56, which is very long and was only available in a 2wd version to my knowledge. Probably also lacks a good low 1st gear, but OD on those is great.
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I think I've seen adapters to put a tcase behind the t56, and it's a sweet trans but crazy expensive. Be cheaper to run a nv4500/atlas
 
Croatan_Kid said:
My truck is 5 speed from the factory. It's really easy. Buy the correct flywheel depending on what crank your motor has (short crank or long crank), get a clutch, and bolt up the transmission. Spec makes an awesome clutch. I found that out after I trashed 2 stock ones.

You know the Corvettes have a torque tube and the transmission is basically bolted to the rear end....right?

If you can bolt it up to an SBC, you can bolt it to an LS motor too. Same bellhousing pattern, they just moved one bolt's location.
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I knew the newer ones did. Wasn't sure about the torque tube in the older ones.

What's the name of the transmission in your truck?
 
NV3500. They're fairly stout if you treat them well. I'm about 350/390 to the tires with 37s and it's got close to 200k on the stock transmission. I'll probably go to an NV4500 if/when it ever craps out.

The older Vettes weren't torque tubes, I don't think, but those transmissions wouldn't be ideal in a 4x4.
 
What's a good indicator that a throttle position sensor is bad or faulty?
2002 lq4 DBC
 
Easiest way to tell would be with a scan tool that shows live data. You can press the pedal and see the change. It it doesn't return to 0 or doesn't go to 100, it's probably bad.
 
snappy said:
Idea is great, the sound will drive you up the wall!!!
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just a bump for the in-cab filter....

mine is this way is and it's not bad at all. little noise before it's warmed up, but fairly quiet after that.

ai7.photobucket.com_albums_y280_1TFROT_MandM_20buggy_IMG_3711_zpseijlxipt.jpg
 
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