The quest for 30 more danas

Logan removing the brake caliper bracket bc he installed it backwards
 

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Progress was made finally moved the front axle out.... only to eye ball that I don’t like where the link mounts are so I’m going to move the uppers
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the second pic is where I’m going to move the uppers to
Should gain me 2-3 in of up travel, lower the ride height and give me more triangulation
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Made a little headway today for the front axle lower mounts tacked onto the axle and then realized I didn’t have the right brackets for the upper axle side mounts so ordered what i need to fix all that. Also realized there isn’t going to be much room for radiator, air bumps and the link mounts and shocks all at bump stops. I may end up going back to a stock size radiator in the factory location to see if that frees ups some room. If my axle was set back about 4-5 inches I wouldn’t have any problems but right now I’m not wanting to shorten the links any more so don’t plan on moving the axle


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Made small amount of progress today welded on the upper front link mounts then realized I had the wrong size tube inserts so still don’t have the front finished yet.
So decided to tear into the 300 to put in the upgraded outputs, and found a surprise it’s got a 4-1 kit in it. I was told it was completely stock so nice little upgrade for free. Anyways got it as far along as I could with out having some stuff machined so hopefully will have that done sometime this week and ready to go behind the 203.


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so got on the internet at lunch and finally figured out my final drive ratios with the 203/300 with the 4.1 kit and the axle gearing at 4.88, because they are already there.

Final Drive Ratio
Underdrive Hi Underdrive Lo
Tcase Hi Tcase Lo Tcase Hi Tcase Lo
1 12.30 49.19 - 24.60 98.38 -
2 7.42 29.67 - 14.84 59.34 -
3 4.88 19.52 - 9.76 39.04 -
- -
R 9.42 37.67 - 18.84 75.35 -
 
Loganwayne said:
so got on the internet at lunch and finally figured out my final drive ratios with the 203/300 with the 4.1 kit and the axle gearing at 4.88, because they are already there.

Final Drive Ratio
Underdrive Hi Underdrive Lo
Tcase Hi Tcase Lo Tcase Hi Tcase Lo
1 12.30 49.19 - 24.60 98.38 -
2 7.42 29.67 - 14.84 59.34 -
3 4.88 19.52 - 9.76 39.04 -
- -
R 9.42 37.67 - 18.84 75.35 -
Click to expand...

For an auto, I like to multiplying the 1st gear by 1.5 to account for the torque converter.
 
Loganwayne said:
The calculator did all the math but did ask if it was a lock up converter or standard. So don’t know if it takes converter slip into account


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Click to expand...

Are you running a reverse manual valve body so it’s R-N-1?
 
Loganwayne said:
No standard valve body. The program started with your lowest gear in transmission then went up.

I’ll post a link so anyone that wants to play with it can.

I forgot to add it also takes in to count tire size


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Click to expand...

I checked the math, they didn’t account for the converter multiplication. I got 148:1 for the crawl ratio with multiplying 1st gear by 1.5. People say between 1.5-2 times the 1st gear ratio will account for it. Are you worried about pushing through the brakes while crawling? Only reason why I asked if you went to a reverse manual valve body, is because it’s easier to shift into neutral from 1st gear.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
I checked the math, they didn’t account for the converter multiplication. I got 148:1 for the crawl ratio with multiplying 1st gear by 1.5. People say between 1.5-2 times the 1st gear ratio will account for it. Are you worried about pushing through the brakes while crawling? Only reason why I asked if you went to a reverse manual valve body, is because it’s easier to shift into neutral from 1st gear.
Click to expand...

Never even thought about it to be honest. But I didn’t plan on the 300 to be 4-1. I probably won’t use the low low very often


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Progress!? Finally had time to finish tacking all the front suspension in place and pulled it to fully weld everything. Also figured out where the radiator is going to sit.


The only place I can fit my air bumps is outside the frame. Basically the bump pads are going to go from knuckle to truss. (The truss is a little off because they used a chevy truss on a Dodge 60)

Picture just kinda shows what I was thinking and the shock will be slightly behind and to the outside of the bump.
If that doesn’t seem like a good idea I may have to go look at it for a few Hours and scratch my head.
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I also cut off some stuff off the frame I’m not going to use or is in the way now.


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Will the shock clear the steering/tire if it is behind the axle? What about if you go coilovers? If so, I see no issues with having them out there.

If not, what if you frenched the bump cans into the frame rails, so that you could mount the shocks on the axle centerline?
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Will the shock clear the steering/tire if it is behind the axle? What about if you go coilovers? If so, I see no issues with having them out there.

If not, what if you frenched the bump cans into the frame rails, so that you could mount the shocks on the axle centerline?
Click to expand...

I thought about that the pads are wide enough to push them towards the front of the axle more and then move the pump to the most front part of the pads. That should leave me more room and get the shock to sit slightly behind the centerline


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I would turn the steering to full stop and try to package it all there. That would give tightest clearance F&R of the axle. Also think about if you were to change wheels down the road, and went with a raceline or the sort. Would BS change causing everything to rub?
 
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