Tilt vs Ramps

That makes sense if you're doing that with it.
 
If you have tons of turnaround room and flat ground, go with 28. Anything over 20ft starts to drag on stuff, and anything over 30ft drags on all the stuff, all the time.
 
You had mentioned it costing $1300 extra to upgrade to 8k lb axles and 17.5's. Honestly, that is a way better option than buying the trailer and putting 'better' 16" tires on it which would still end up costing you over $500 for a set. 8k axles are oil bath, so you can visually LOOK at them and check to see the fluid level, no guessing or wondering when you greased them last.
 
If you have tons of turnaround room and flat ground, go with 28. Anything over 20ft starts to drag on stuff, and anything over 30ft drags on all the stuff, all the time.

I disagree with this statement. I’ve had my trailer to Dixie Run and back. All through Uwharrie into Badin Lake Campground and backed into a parking spot. It’s never drug the ground once. Axle placement plays a huge role.
 
As does 3 axles (assuming that 34' pic you posted is yours?)
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You can put casters on all 4 corners and never drag the trailer either, but thats not my point.
 
As does 3 axles (assuming that 34' pic you posted is yours?)
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You can put casters on all 4 corners and never drag the trailer either, but thats not my point.

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Yep, mine.
 
So how do you like pulling a trailer that big with a bumper pull and how do you think the three axles vs two compares to turning radius


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Number of axles won't make a difference for turning radius, three axles just scrubs tires worse on sharp turns. Long bumper pulls tow fine in my experience. Like any trailer, how well they tow depends on axle placement and weight distribution.
 
I moved the tangential debate to a new thread because there is good info there but wasnt topical here.
Carry on
 
I finally made the leap and got the ball rolling on having my trailer built. Just have to send them my deposit!

The only thing I haven't nailed down is if I want a dovetail or not. I'm thinking not, so I can avoid dragging the ass of the trailer. A 26" deck height with a 5' ramp should be easy enough to load with, right?
 
I finally made the leap and got the ball rolling on having my trailer built. Just have to send them my deposit!

The only thing I haven't nailed down is if I want a dovetail or not. I'm thinking not, so I can avoid dragging the ass of the trailer. A 26" deck height with a 5' ramp should be easy enough to load with, right?

Depends on what you’re hauling. That dovetail will help with things like belly mowers and sports cars. If you don’t haul those things, I’d roll with flat for the reasons you already mentioned.
 
My thoughts exactly...

I asked Pythagoras how bad it would be and we're only talking about 25* ramp angle without a dove vs an 18* ramp angle with one. I can live with that.
 
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Ha, I wired my deposit over after work! I'm excited :D
 
Since it's not my money...Go with a hydraulic dovetail!
 
I did a 26' gooseneck equipment trailer, no dovetail, 5' spring assist ramps, 8k axles and 17.5s, dual jacks, and the neck is 3" higher to accommodate my 41" ball height ( :D ) and 58" bed rail height. The extra clearance will be nice.

They asked for 4 or 5 measurements to make sure the bed rail height and ball height would jive with the trailer. They even ask where your 7 way plug is located in the truck bed. Aint that fancy like pants on a bullfrog?!

It's going to be a long 4-5 weeks :rolleyes:
 
My bad! It was all the way back in the first post. I'm getting a Kaufman.
 
It may have already been said, I didn't feel like reading all the responses. But, there is no way I'd buy a trailer like that with out it being deckover. Just opens up it's usability 100 fold . Also I believe they have an option to go to a I an ibeam neck and main rails on the deckover .This adds bigger cross members and side rails. Takes a ton of flex out of the trailer and is just stouter .I have a 24' kraftsmen built like that. No way I'd go back to a between fenders trailer. Loading stuff very long sucks with the fenders in the way.
 
To me, it was a balance between cost, trailer weight, load capacity, realistic usage, and ease of use/loading. I got an equipment trailer because that's what I'll be hauling almost every time it leaves my yard. I've borrowed a tandem dual deckover before and it was nice, don't get me wrong, but it was more than I needed. Not to mention it weighed 6500 lbs and you damn near need a ladder to get up on the trailer deck :D
 
Sold my trailer a couple days ago so I just ordered one myself from Gatormade. 20+5' dove with lay flat, full width ramps. 8k axles/17.5's GVWR 18k. Mine is a pintle trailer as I want to be able to tow it with both the 350 and the Excursion.

I like trailers with fenders as the axles are normally wider, and the CG is lower so they tow better, but I have too much now that having a deckover will just make my life easier.
 
I like trailers with fenders as the axles are normally wider, and the CG is lower so they tow better, but I have too much now that having a deckover will just make my life easier.
I agree with this, but I like that deckovers are narrower, and therefore the right side tires spend more time on the pavement instead of bouncing off potholes and dropping onto the shoulder. I've been back and forth in my mind about which is better for a long time and will probably never decide.
 
Those trucks are duallies. Best of both worlds. Wheel dropping properties of a narrow deckover, track width of a tween-da-wheels trailer. My next trailer will be an aluminum full hydraulic tilt single axle dual wheel that I have to build myself because nobody makes it.
 
I don't think the axles are different widths, just the trailer decks themselves. You usually get 102" with a full deck over, some offer 96" with driver over fenders, and equipment trailers are 82" wide decks.

If you can't keep an equipment trailer on the road, you don't need to go dragging a deck over around....it's a chore to keep those wide bastards in your lane unless you're on the highway or interstate!
 
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