Trailer improvements

Jeffncs

Jeffncs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2017
Location
Wake Forest
I just picked up a 16+2 trailer. Love it but now want to make it mine with some mods / improvements.

Stop Bar
I’m looking to add a stop bar to the front of the deck. Is there an ideal height and width? I have some 3” channel to use for the vertical supports. I’ll have to buy material for the cross bar. Should that be tube or just use more 3” channel?

Trailer box
Im debating building a waterproof, surface mount (recessed into the deck) box or just keeping it simple with a tongue box. The recessed box would be slick, but a pain to make. The tongue box is quick and easy. The tongue box also offers a nice spot for the winch battery that is close to the wiring for a charging lead.

Winch
Im going to weld a 3/16” plate to the front cross bar at the deck surface and add a 4500# winch.

D-rings
Im adding a bunch on 1/2” d-rings along the sides and front of the trailer.

Backup light
I added a LED light bar under my previous trailer and I plan to do that again. Sucky part is that they cut the reverse light wire at the factory, so this mod may wait since I’ll likely have to redo (and better protect) the wiring. (Why do trailer manufacturers build stout trailers then have cruddy wiring?!?! I guess that’s a hidden corner to cut.

Anything else I need / should do?
 
The trailer has stake pockets along the side and across the front already. Should I just use those stake body d-rings?
 
X2 for the stake pockets and rub rails. Really provides much more flexibility with hauling loads. I’d be sure to have stake pockets spaced no more than 18” to keep the rub rail from flexing too much. I spaced mine at about 16” and like it but think I’ll weld in a tube spacer between them to help with rub rail flexing and provide more options for thing loads down.

Make sure you have spacers handy to be sure the rub rail is spaced off the frame enough for your straps or whatever. The rail will warp during welding and can cause havoc when trying to get the hooks fed between the rail and frame.

If you can manage, put the winch in the tongue box. Protects it and keeps it secure. Battery as well. You may need to reinforce the cross bar that the winch is hooked to depending on what type of steel member it is. Most of the time they aren’t really designed for those loads and will flex a lot during use. I have a winch in a 6” channel and it wanted to twist it initially until I added proper bracing.
 
So instead of the d-rings, it sounds like I should add a bunch of stake pockets then add a rub rail the length of the frame over the stake pockets to strengthen them?
 
You say it has them already, so you may not need to add any. If they are spaced decently you can just add a rub rail to the outside. Post some pics.

Duane
 
If you have stake pockets but no rub rail, you can add short pieces of round tube as outriggers in between the pockets to support the rub rail. It makes a nice place to loop a chain. One of the big manufacturers does it that way. It's pretty slick.
 
Drivers side - 1/8” wall stake pockets spaced roughly 42” apart with 3 along the aide

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Passenger side - same pockets and same locations with the spare tire mount between #2 and #3.

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Behind wheels - there’s only one stake pocket towards the bottom of the dove/beaver.

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I'd double the pockets then add rail. The stop bar I would do is a little higher then the intended winch and use it to protect and provide mounting for cable guide of choice.

I also like d-rings plus the pockets, With your frame design d-rings on insert for the stakes.

Absolute first thing I would do is take a grinder to them sharp corners. Even if they nocked the burr off them look terrible for keeping the flesh on your person.


Last note: I am a dealer know for a large trailer part supply chain...Like as of two days ago. Waiting to post a vendor comment til I get some numbers together but...cats out of the bag now! :p
 
What gauge steel would you use for the rub rail? Will 3/16” get the job done?

Also - I’m going to just work around the spare and I’ll do 2 short sections of rub on that side after adding another stake pocket. Sound ok? It’ll be clean and professional - I don’t want to start cutting this thing up! Hahaha

@WARRIORWELDING congrats on the expanding venture!!
 
Jeffncs said:
What gauge steel would you use for the rub rail? Will 3/16” get the job done?

Also - I’m going to just work around the spare and I’ll do 2 short sections of rub on that side after adding another stake pocket. Sound ok? It’ll be clean and professional - I don’t want to start cutting this thing up! Hahaha

@WARRIORWELDING congrats on the expanding venture!!
Click to expand...

I used 3/8” and it seems adequate. 3/16” probably is way too thin IMO.
 
3/8"x2"
 
Jeffncs said:
What gauge steel would you use for the rub rail? Will 3/16” get the job done?

Also - I’m going to just work around the spare and I’ll do 2 short sections of rub on that side after adding another stake pocket. Sound ok? It’ll be clean and professional - I don’t want to start cutting this thing up! Hahaha

@WARRIORWELDING congrats on the expanding venture!!
Click to expand...

My bumper pull has 3/8s, and it's a little bowed in some places, but the stake pockets are about 30in apart. It could use some tube about halfway between each like Shawn mentioned. As for the spare tire I would move it. If you ever need to side load anything or haul something wide it could be aggravating to deal with. I built a stake pocket mounted one with some rectangle tube and a trailer spindle and hub.

Duane
 
Thanks to all. I’ll order some more stake pockets tonight (Amazon) and source some 1/4” and 2” round tube from Metal Supermarket on Monday.

I’ll also likely grind off the spare tire mount and relocate it with a homemade stake pocket insert.

Thanks again!
 
Use 3/8", 1/4" doesn't have enough stiffness. Also, I wouldn't buy more stake pockets unless you specifically will be using stakes. A piece of flatbar spanning the gap would be just fine, and cheaper.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Use 3/8", 1/4" doesn't have enough stiffness. Also, I wouldn't buy more stake pockets unless you specifically will be using stakes. A piece of flatbar spanning the gap would be just fine, and cheaper.
Click to expand...

I just bought a handful on Amazon for like $20. I’ll throw in a few round tube thingies too. I have plenty of space and the ability / tools to do it. I enjoy making thing my own. Although TJs May not like me covering all their stickers up!

😎
 
What i did for my winch on one of my trailers is i cut a old Reese hitch and welded it to the Toung of my trailer and i have a reese hitch plate my winch is mounted to. When i need a winch i slide it into the reese hitch. When i don't need it i put in my building out of the weather. Also if i need a winch to pulls something out i can put my truck or my jeep or stap it to a tree to pull with. I have used that winch more than the one on the front of my jeep. Also you want a 8000 # winch or stronger because if you need to winch something with a bad wheel a 4500 # won't do the job.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
I am a dealer know for a large trailer part supply chain...Like as of two days ago. Waiting to post a vendor comment til I get some numbers together but...cats out of the bag now! :p
Click to expand...
Most of y'all already know this man is a genius and a magician with metal. But for those of you without the time or talent to do what Jeff has done, shoot WW a message. I bought a new Kaufman with (almost) everything I wanted. WW added a matching spare mount (identical to the factory one) on the opposite side and rear jack mounts for me that look like it came from kaufman.
Also... The man is so interesting and fun to talk too. 10/10 on everything I've ever had the man work on 🤘🏼


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CasterTroy said:
WW added a matching spare mount (identical to the factory one) on the opposite side and rear jack mounts for me that look like it came from kaufman.
Click to expand...
Please don't insult him like that :laughing:
 
 
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