What have you done to your rig today?

Threw the front axle under it to flex test everything, and did the required bolt tires back on and stare at it move. It all has to come back off again, but still a nice mental hurdle.
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Also pulled the front axle apart for the first time since I built it in 2016. No birf soup and not bad for me welding knuckle balls on without a true bar or having any idea as to what I was doing.
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Working on some rear brakes before getting it sold next weekend.

Not sure why I never knew this before, but you can 100% use the newer style, two piece, AAM 10.5/11.5 hub seals on an older 14 bolt!

I was at work last night and the thought popped in my head. I used the "more info" tabs on RockAuto to compare the seal's OD and ID. Sure enough, they're the same! This should keep the first picture from happening again and the shoulder of the spindle will no longer be the sealing surface. Good lord, it was NASTY in there!

I had been thinking it was the wheel cylinder leaking, but I was wrong.


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what kind of lift and capacity you working on? I've been shopping.
 
Ask and you shall receive :D

Old style

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New style

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Of course, it's tougher to get the hub/drum assembly off and on. On the AAM axles it's just the hub itself, but it'll be worth it!

I was thinking about how many parts the AAM 10.5 shares with a regular 14 bolt (spoiler alert...it's almost ALL of them) and though "hmm...what about the hub seals?". Boom. Winner!
The newer seals are pretty spiffy :D
 
what kind of lift and capacity you working on? I've been shopping.

The 4 post is an older Eagle alignment rack. 12k with center jacks. We have the wiggle plates in the rear and the turn plates for the front. Been looking for an alignment machine setup.

The two post next to the four post is an ALM 9k. Just put that in last week.

I think we paid 1500 for each one.
 
The newer seals are pretty spiffy :D

The best part being, they don't leak and the sealing surface isn't the spindle anymore! I can't believe I didn't realize this trick sooner.
 
You'd probably have to bore the base plate, press fit a bushing, and then bore that to fit. You could also sleeve the shaft, but would still need to ream/bore the base plate.

I kinda dig the o ring idea for simplicity. I'd probably lightly lube it with something like dielectric grease so it doesn't make the throttle sticky. I'd think it should last a good while.
 
Replaced the rear main seal again on the 440. Everything looked fine, but maybe the seal retainer piece wasn't compressing the seal enough. Thought about matching it down some but just grabbed the rtv and gooped it up. Will put oil in tomorrow before church and see how it does. Can't be any worse
 
Replaced the rear main seal again on the 440. Everything looked fine, but maybe the seal retainer piece wasn't compressing the seal enough. Thought about matching it down some but just grabbed the rtv and gooped it up. Will put oil in tomorrow before church and see how it does. Can't be any worse
Nope... still leaks. I'm a gonna try one more thing next weekend.
 
Got a little closer to the 1 ton swap
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Nope... still leaks. I'm a gonna try one more thing next weekend.
New seal again. Did all the tricks this time. Seems at 12 and 6 o'clock, sanded the base of the seal retainer with 1000 grit. New bolt bushings in the bottom retainer thing, rtv around seal od... none of this makes sense unless you do split rear main seals every weekend on big block Mopars. Ran it 20 miles - saw some oil but believe it's residual up in the trans Bell housing, er... hoping it is anyway... I left the dust cover off the Bell housing for inspection purposes, maybe that affects the wind flow so the oil blows back instead of pooling in there, bottom of the whole rig is wet from the last two seals leaking so I dunno.

little man is driving it to school tomorrow, that'll be a 70 mile round trip. Hopefully it's dryer when he gets home.
 
New seal again. Did all the tricks this time. Seems at 12 and 6 o'clock, sanded the base of the seal retainer with 1000 grit. New bolt bushings in the bottom retainer thing, rtv around seal od... none of this makes sense unless you do split rear main seals every weekend on big block Mopars. Ran it 20 miles - saw some oil but believe it's residual up in the trans Bell housing, er... hoping it is anyway... I left the dust cover off the Bell housing for inspection purposes, maybe that affects the wind flow so the oil blows back instead of pooling in there, bottom of the whole rig is wet from the last two seals leaking so I dunno.

little man is driving it to school tomorrow, that'll be a 70 mile round trip. Hopefully it's dryer when he gets home.
Man I hope it works. That seals been whooping you. You got more will power than me. I would have burnt it to the ground lol 😂
 
Not today, but over the past couple months, I:
1. Fixed the steering (longer pitman arm.) now turns on a dime. Also had to shorten the drag-link by an inch.
2. Fixed the brakes (new booster, check valve, and vacuum line)
3. Changed the rear pinion Yolk (1350x1350 now, instead of 1330x1350 conversion)
4. Fixed the driver's seat height. Since I put the suspension seats in, had to drop it two inches.
5. Rebuilt the carb, it had been sitting for a long time.
6. Replaced the foil on the gauge cluster, now all gauges except for fuel work (need to check sending unit)
7. Replaced radiator with aluminum aftermarket (so far no leaks)

Engine sounds bad right now, could be throw out bearing, rod, rings, or just old. I have a good 4.0 to swap in, just not the time.
 
Picked up some 285s for the crew cab, they're a little older but there's no dry rot and great tread.
Normally I wouldn't get older tires but I'm so sick of the 265 mud tires, they balance out perfect but shake the truck between 35-40; these Hankooks only need to last me a couple months. The red truck is going to be getting new tires, so the Kellys will be going on the one ton
 

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