What have you done to your rig today?

After the new HPOP, ICP, IPR, fuel bowl replacements, I changed the oil and filter and figured since I had an extra set of air bags sitting the in shop for a few years, what the hell, install them. All good to go now.

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New nutserts.sye,Oliver’s driveshaft. Transmission mount. Napa trans mount was trash vibration like crazy at idle. Ordered a Crown one back to normal
 

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Fuel cell? How much stretch? And this confirms some thoughts on a drive on lift.
Factory tank has been rotated and dropped through the floor just behind the front seats. And the stretch is somewhere around 10" ? I had Dakota springs in the rear but they were way too soft and caused weird drive line chatter.
 
Factory tank has been rotated and dropped through the floor just behind the front seats. And the stretch is somewhere around 10" ? I had Dakota springs in the rear but they were way too soft and caused weird drive line chatter.
Well that's different (meaning the tank). 10 inches from rear springs only?(!)----should have been a question mark?
 
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I finally pulled the injection pump off and fixed the fuel leak. I like it when the fix actually cures the issue! I also replace a few other seals and what not while I had everything torn apart. I also ordered a new starter from XDP. The part store reman is hating life with the small amount of extra timing I added. With 2000 cranking amps and 2/0 cables, the starter should damn near wring the teeth off the flywheel...alas...it doesn't. Hence the new starter.

Thankfully, Robert Bosch is already dead or I would have wished many bad things on him. It was kind of a pain in the ass. However, I appreciate their later contributions to the common rail diesel. I guess I can let it slide this time :D

That one, little o ring was the culprit. As you can see, it was old and brittle. It also requires a LOT of disassembly!

Luckily, the pump shaft is keyed and the injection pump has a built in lock bolt. You don't even have to waste time finding TDC or timing everything once you put it back together.

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This was actually done in early winter, but I'm simply slow getting back to the computer.

Dropped the 48RE (auto) out of our 07 Ram and put a G56 (6 speed manual) back in its place.
One weekend dropping it out with my Dad, the next weekend installing with friends Tim and Sarah.

After a few months of driving including one towing trip to Florida, I must say I love the newer setup.
IMG_20230811_152942646_HDR~2.jpg
 
This was actually done in early winter, but I'm simply slow getting back to the computer.

Dropped the 48RE (auto) out of our 07 Ram and put a G56 (6 speed manual) back in its place.
One weekend dropping it out with my Dad, the next weekend installing with friends Tim and Sarah.

After a few months of driving including one towing trip to Florida, I must say I love the newer setup.
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Details? Did you buy a donor truck? I know the other was electronic shift and used computer feed back. I have an 06 or 07 lol....can't remember. I'd love a manual. It also tows as a primary use.
 
Details? Did you buy a donor truck? I know the other was electronic shift and used computer feed back. I have an 06 or 07 lol....can't remember. I'd love a manual. It also tows as a primary use.
You asked... (lol).

The 48RE was my only complaint about the truck. Especially when towing. No lockup 'til 3rd gear/30mph was just killing me. Even did a Mystery Switch, but I can see where it'd be easy to do some breakage. Was going to eventually head to Muldoons in NJ and have them rebuild for a towing tranny. In the end, I just couldn't see continuing to live with the 4 speed auto. The shift spread is simply too wide. In hindsight, I am extremely glad I went with the manual. The 48 has a place in sled pulling or racing at a drag strip though.

Been wanting to do the swap for years. Finally got tired of not finding a donor truck (was watching aiia.com & FB) and bought the tranny through M&M out of VA. Good folks to deal with. Cost me commercial market pricing, but gained me a bit of a guarantee. Obviously cost even more due to buying extras elsewhere (nuts/bolts/brackets/shifter/etc). Only 2 pain points in that stuff was the shifter (expensive bugger, even used) and the bracket on the bottom of the tranny. Neither came with the used tranny. Noteworthy that driveshafts had to be shortened/lengthened. Also, the transfer case input shaft has to be changed due to different spline count.

Mechanically, the swap is all like Jeep Legos. From the clutch knockout plate on the firewall to the crossmember holes already in the frame. I got a Stage 2 (stronger pressure plate) single clutch disk from Phoenix Friction in NJ. Using Red Line MTL and one quart of Lucas automatic transmission fixer fluid... I have absolutely zero clutch chatter.

To get the truck running, wiring was actually quite easy. One of the old tranny wires needs to be grounded. I did it "right" by having a clutch switch. Without the clutch safety switch, you might not have cruise control. Two other issues are backup light wiring and the transfer case wiring (I've got the stupid electronic shift). Still working on these two.

I (optionally) did buy EFI Live and gave the computer a lobotomy (reprogrammed the female truck to think it's a male). In reality, there's no benefit (I think) other than to get rid of the PRNDL. The truck doesn't idle or run differently that I can tell. I did think the idle would change. No reason other than my brain thinking about how gas cars change (auto vs manual).

There's a 2" spacer on the back of the motor that does not need to be changed if going to a G56. If you go NV5600, that (and the starter?) need to be swapped.

I would not hesitate to do it again. There are several videos out there that walk through almost everything you need to do.

I've done a few motor/tranny/TC swaps (CJ, Grand Cherokee, J20). The effort is quite comparable.

Other than "Do it", the only advice I'll add is to use a transmission jack and be careful.
 
You asked... (lol).

The 48RE was my only complaint about the truck. Especially when towing. No lockup 'til 3rd gear/30mph was just killing me. Even did a Mystery Switch, but I can see where it'd be easy to do some breakage. Was going to eventually head to Muldoons in NJ and have them rebuild for a towing tranny. In the end, I just couldn't see continuing to live with the 4 speed auto. The shift spread is simply too wide. In hindsight, I am extremely glad I went with the manual. The 48 has a place in sled pulling or racing at a drag strip though.

Been wanting to do the swap for years. Finally got tired of not finding a donor truck (was watching aiia.com & FB) and bought the tranny through M&M out of VA. Good folks to deal with. Cost me commercial market pricing, but gained me a bit of a guarantee. Obviously cost even more due to buying extras elsewhere (nuts/bolts/brackets/shifter/etc). Only 2 pain points in that stuff was the shifter (expensive bugger, even used) and the bracket on the bottom of the tranny. Neither came with the used tranny. Noteworthy that driveshafts had to be shortened/lengthened. Also, the transfer case input shaft has to be changed due to different spline count.

Mechanically, the swap is all like Jeep Legos. From the clutch knockout plate on the firewall to the crossmember holes already in the frame. I got a Stage 2 (stronger pressure plate) single clutch disk from Phoenix Friction in NJ. Using Red Line MTL and one quart of Lucas automatic transmission fixer fluid... I have absolutely zero clutch chatter.

To get the truck running, wiring was actually quite easy. One of the old tranny wires needs to be grounded. I did it "right" by having a clutch switch. Without the clutch safety switch, you might not have cruise control. Two other issues are backup light wiring and the transfer case wiring (I've got the stupid electronic shift). Still working on these two.

I (optionally) did buy EFI Live and gave the computer a lobotomy (reprogrammed the female truck to think it's a male). In reality, there's no benefit (I think) other than to get rid of the PRNDL. The truck doesn't idle or run differently that I can tell. I did think the idle would change. No reason other than my brain thinking about how gas cars change (auto vs manual).

There's a 2" spacer on the back of the motor that does not need to be changed if going to a G56. If you go NV5600, that (and the starter?) need to be swapped.

I would not hesitate to do it again. There are several videos out there that walk through almost everything you need to do.

I've done a few motor/tranny/TC swaps (CJ, Grand Cherokee, J20). The effort is quite comparable.

Other than "Do it", the only advice I'll add is to use a transmission jack and be careful.
Nice! Thanks for the info. It is really the heart of what forums are for outside of chit chat and measuring contest....
 
Definitely wanna see that tire in person.

I've seen some of the smaller sizes of that tire in person and they're pretty sexy. I can only imagine the 42s!
 
I've seen some of the smaller sizes of that tire in person and they're pretty sexy. I can only imagine the 42s!
That’s my thoughts. Being a bit taller and wider. Tad bit bigger lugs should look mean. I definitely looked at the 40 stickies but ultimately wanted a 42/43. I suck at driving and need the axle clearance lol 😂
 
That’s my thoughts. Being a bit taller and wider. Tad bit bigger lugs should look mean. I definitely looked at the 40 stickies but ultimately wanted a 42/43. I suck at driving and need the axle clearance lol 😂
I guess you just needed that extra 1.5" to help you out :laughing:
 
That’s my thoughts. Being a bit taller and wider. Tad bit bigger lugs should look mean. I definitely looked at the 40 stickies but ultimately wanted a 42/43. I suck at driving and need the axle clearance lol 😂
Joe snatched my 40" sticky Mickeys to use on his buggy so I'll eventually be back in the market. Go ahead & get the 42s so I can check them out & figure out which route to go 😂
 
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