What have you done to your rig today?

What are the differences between a M1008 and a typical square body?
Cucv (M1008, m1009, m1010, m1028, m1031) were just base model trucks and blazers (m1009) that had the heaviest suspensions available and all had 6.2 non emissions J code diesels with turbo 400 transmissions and either a np208 or some versions had the np205 for its PTO ability such as the m1031 maintenance truck to run the generator. All the trucks had Dana 60 fronts with the m1008 being open and the 28 and 31s had a trac loc limited slip. Most trucks had the 14bolt rear except the dually versions had the Dana 70. All trucks had 4.56 gears and that's why they always get stripped for the axles: low gears and traction aids and they never saw big power or abuse in service. All blazers had 10bolts with 308 gears with the GM govloc wind up locker. All were 24volt starting and charging systems to be NATO compliant but everything else on the trucks are 12volt and converting them to 12v is common and easy. These are just the highlights, there's some other differences like blackout lightning and other small things.
 
M1008 with typical square body mods including torch cut 8inch shackles up front. It's available if you're interested. Just rolled it off the trailer last night and fired it up today.
I wish, I had to let my 75 K10 project go; after a month of straight catastrophes I had to prioritize my project list and free up some extra cash
 
Got a factory steering wheel and cleaned it up to install today. Horn button is functional. Also got the little tachometer mounted. It sits in the cubby that originally held the analog clock (factory option). Waiting on a piece to dry up that will hold the oil pressure and oil temp. gauges where the original radio speaker was. This is just a practice piece to see if I like it and will be modified to be permanent if I like the version 1.0.
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The area around the switches originally had some plastic “wood grain” but the PO had messed it all up with screws and XYZ so I’m looking for some real maple veneer to glue in place to cover up a lot of the little screw holes and switch holes that won’t get used.
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The engine in the buggy had a disco party yesterday at the Ranch. Bit too much weepow and angry squirrel noises. Ended up locking up and having to be dragged back to the trailer. Today I cleaned up the buggy and dropped the oil pan to see the damage.

Cylinder #1 rod bearing left the chat. Rod side bearing actually rolled on top of the cap side bearing.

Now I have to get one of the spare engines out of the shed and go through it to make sure it's ok to install.

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The engine in the buggy had a disco party yesterday at the Ranch. Bit too much weepow and angry squirrel noises. Ended up locking up and having to be dragged back to the trailer. Today I cleaned up the buggy and dropped the oil pan to see the damage.

Cylinder #1 rod bearing left the chat. Rod side bearing actually rolled on top of the cap side bearing.

Now I have to get one of the spare engines out of the shed and go through it to make sure it's ok to install.

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Too much weepoww. That sucks.
 
Gave the crew cab some loving; the blown up stock speakers finally annoyed me enough to do something about it. The Kickers originally meant for the red truck are going in here; and this truck gets to be a guinea pig for my first foray into using Kilmat.
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Decided I'll be refreshing the interior here and there, it's in good shape overall but it's definitely starting to show it's age. Quick scuff and spray with SEM Saddle Tan and the door panels look like new!
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I definitely overly complicated the application of the sound deadening material; I was trying to cut the sections down so they'd fit the backside of the door panel better when I should've just used full sheets then trim out where the rises/holes are.
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At some point when this truck gets door pins I'll gut the door and load up the inside of it with Kilmat as well, but for now I'll stick with the door panels and door cards. All I need to do now is wire in the speakers and I can get it all back together but some foul weather chased me inside.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel though, and hopefully all this pain-in-the-ass detail work I'm doing will make an improvement in this rattle trap.
 
Trying to figure this out today and of course didn’t plan ahead and buy 2.25” pipe

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Called a couple local muffler shops and they all quoted between $150 and $200 for them to bend me three 90s.

Overnighted some from Amazon for $50… sorry local guys but that’s crazy
 
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