Wide Open Design LJ buggy build

No fries said:
One for the front and one for the rear.

You are talking about brakes right?
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I’ve always heard it’s 2 lines on the front one for the rear or something

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If you aren't past the idea of having A/C I'd suggest giving Jeep Air a call. I have worked with them in the past on kits for CJs with interior mods and they came through for me. Maybe they could customize one of their Wrangler kits to your liking. Just an idea.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Need to get the dash in so I can install the Genright console and start on shifters and wiring. I knew there was some clearance issues with the dash, HVAC ductwork and the cage. I didn't know just how much.
Ended up removing the OEM HVAC assembly. Also had to strip the dash down to the metal frame to cut it away from the cage tubes going to the floor. I wasn't expecting to do so as I *was* thinking about getting the AC working eventually. But alas, I'll toss a hot rod style heater in it and call it done.
It definitely is looking more finished inside. I have all of the OEM dash trim and pieces and will install them later.
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On to.the corners and rocker guards. Got the driver's side done today. I marked the fenders for cutting and will do that this week. The corners are being painted body color and the rockers will be black. Kinda sucked taking a plasma cutter to a $500 set of rockers. But they're made for an OEM tub/frame combo, not this one. Regardless, I have some scraps for the front corner piece I wanna add later.
I'll start on the passenger side tomorrow after work since I kinda have a system now.
Initial mock up
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Essentially bolted down (aside from one crooked nutsert)
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I'll add a piece to match the angle of the WOD fender line this week (both sides)
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If you want to borrow the plasma cutter give me a shout.
 
Got the passenger side armor on and both fenders cut yesterday. That part is done. Officially moving on to fuel system and wiring now.
Matt Cutler was gracious and gave me some phone time today to talk about hard lines for plumbing. I really like how he does his plumbing on his buggies. We talked about stainless vs aluminum.
Going to get a solid game plan and lay the various systems out.
The plan for fuel will be hard lines from the firewall to the cell (through the tub in the back) and I'll make the 4 hoses to from cell/lines and rail/lines.
On the brakes I'll likely run my typical 3AN at each caliper (all 4 the same length) and 3AN down the drivers upper link front and back (again, same length). Hard lines across each axle housing and on the frame.
Power steering will be Parker hoses as my pump, orbital and ram are all essentially within 1 foot of each other.
Transmission cooler will be behind and above the Atlas assuming. I'll hopefully run hard lines between the tub and C6 with short flex hose for serviceability.
 
Yo Skoad! I’m sure there is a ton of stuff that’s happening that isn’t photo worthy or at least not to the masses. Plot and execute the plan is where you are at and efficiently at that.

You are killing it I think… your turn around time is really fast considering life exists beyond the build.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Brake lines probably will be Nickel/copper.
The fuel and trans bends will be 90* and 135* in a lot of places. I'd prefer the straight runs to be straight as opposed to straightened roll tubing.
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3/8 Nicop straightened from a roll will be easier than stainless to get to seal, I couldn’t imagine trying to trail fix a stainless line. Aluminum will corrode (fittings are different since they’re anodized and the connections on aluminum are really hard to get a good flare without cracks


 
Shreddinlettuce said:
3/8 Nicop straightened from a roll will be easier than stainless to get to seal, I couldn’t imagine trying to trail fix a stainless line. Aluminum will corrode (fittings are different since they’re anodized and the connections on aluminum are really hard to get a good flare without cracks


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They have annealed stainless that flairs nicely
 
Monkeynono said:
They have annealed stainless that flairs nicely
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Beat me to it.
When Cutler and I spoke, he made it clear to use annealed SS. He sent me a video of what tools to use with it specifically too.
Whether or not I invest in the tools for a one time use thing is yet to be determined. That would be the only reason I go with aluminum.
My Ranger was plumbed with aluminum on the frame rails and runs of braided to the rails. Worked just fine. I want it cleaner this time regardless of aluminum vs SS
 
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