Woodworking Projects

[josh m]

Done a few woodworking projects. To me it’s kinda like stress reliever or something. Fills the gap between hunting an fishin seasons. We are table poor at my house got 3 and don’t eat at none of them

I wanna learn how to do the water table. That's bad ass!!

 

[Ibayne]

I wanna learn how to do the water table. That's bad ass!!

Check out Stone Coat countertops on the ole YouTube. Look at his Live Edge River table. I followed there directions but bought different epoxy to use on my first try

 

[ramjo]

Started on the bench tonight. Apparently the Lowes near me does not carry douglas fir but other stores do . But I did get some material to build a router sled.

Trying to level a warped/twisted board is a lot of fun but I was able to knock it out. Started working on routing it flat. Some parts are cupped and others are not. The board is 2.25" thick so I have plenty of material to work with. I'll be doing this for a while...

Time to invest in a good jointer and planer!

 

[jeepinmatt]

I have a jointer for sale, see CL link in my signature.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

After a couple hours with the router sled, the top is nice and flat. Spent a couple more hours on the base of the table. All joints were handcut/chiseled and the uprights that hold the top down are a mortise and tenon joint. I'm going to add a couple more angled supports to the uprights and then a lot of sanding, some butterflies, and it should be done. I tried to use as little hardware as possible on this but decided to rely on the strength of the wood and glued joints. It will be finished just like the table.

This is another project that I'm working on. I got the oak cookie off the Light rail extension in Charlotte. It was cut out of the biggest tree on UNCC's campus at the light rail station. The demo guys did a terrible job of cutting the cookie and after it dried, there were some really bad/weak spots directly in the middle. A friend of mine had a slab of walnut that very closely followed the natural lines of the oak cookie so we cut it in half. Lots of curly maple bowties later and it looks like this...

The backside has chestnut stringers that run the width of the piece. They will also serve as a mounting place for the base. This will be a coffee table/end table eventually but there's still a lot of work left to do. I plan on using colored epoxy as well as turquoise/copper shavings to add accents. Still need to decide on how the base is going to be built.

I have a jointer for sale, see CL link in my signature.

That is very tempting, I do need a jointer...

 

[ramjo]

Made a handicap accessible vanity for my buddy's dentist office out of some of my oak barn wood and some old bedpost from my grandpas woodworking parts leftovers. Sprayed the legs with some precatalyzed lacquer leftover from my kitchen cabinets.

 

[GotWood]

I have a shit load of large wood working tools that are for sale. My dad is selling out, most are Delta/Rockwell when it was one company and meant something. I'll get some pics together, all located in North-Central WV.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Bringing this back to the top. Im working on a river top bar for the house. Custom dimensions to fit a unique cubby in our library/study. Same wood that the farm table was made out of. This will be my first time doing any type of river table and I've been doing a lot of research/reading on how to correctly pour everything. Here are the slabs, 45" long, 8-12" wide, and 2" thick.

Cut these out on my "free" bandsaw and ran them through a borrowed planer. I still need to chamfer the edges on the "river" with a hand plane.

Mocked up in the form box.

The edge of the bar top will have a live edge. Most of the bark was still on it and it was easily removed. Still need to clean it up during final finishing but it should add a lot of character.

The epoxy I went with was Pro Marine Table Top Epoxy. Got 2 gallons of it off Amazon and this is how it showed up.

Amazon is sending me a new shipment and I get to keep this one. About 1/4 of the Part A leaked out and covered my porch


I'm going to have to pour the resin in stages as I am also going to capture some brass rounds in the table top, something like this with all the different calibers I currently own/shoot.

I'm also planning on adding 2-3 free floating, live edge shelves over the bar top with some recessed LED lighting. The back and sides of the bar top will not be able to be seen due to the cubbyhole they are going in so it should look awesome.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

I have a shit load of large wood working tools that are for sale. My dad is selling out, most are Delta/Rockwell when it was one company and meant something. I'll get some pics together, all located in North-Central WV.

Depending on size/price, I would be interested in a table saw, planer, and jointer. Also really interested in any old hand planes, spokeshaves, or any hand tooling.

 

[Ibayne]

Check out Total Boat Epoxy. They have a Deep Pour Epoxy which they say will let you pour 2 inches thick. I tested its limits with this 4x4 cube that I made some coasters out of... its a slow cure epoxy too so little to no air bubbles either

Bringing this back to the top. Im working on a river top bar for the house. Custom dimensions to fit a unique cubby in our library/study. Same wood that the farm table was made out of. This will be my first time doing any type of river table and I've been doing a lot of research/reading on how to correctly pour everything. Here are the slabs, 45" long, 8-12" wide, and 2" thick.

Cut these out on my "free" bandsaw and ran them through a borrowed planer. I still need to chamfer the edges on the "river" with a hand plane.

Mocked up in the form box.

The edge of the bar top will have a live edge. Most of the bark was still on it and it was easily removed. Still need to clean it up during final finishing but it should add a lot of character.

The epoxy I went with was Pro Marine Table Top Epoxy. Got 2 gallons of it off Amazon and this is how it showed up.

Amazon is sending me a new shipment and I get to keep this one. About 1/4 of the Part A leaked out and covered my porch


I'm going to have to pour the resin in stages as I am also going to capture some brass rounds in the table top, something like this with all the different calibers I currently own/shoot.

I'm also planning on adding 2-3 free floating, live edge shelves over the bar top with some recessed LED lighting. The back and sides of the bar top will not be able to be seen due to the cubbyhole they are going in so it should look awesome.

 

[Fabrik8]

Amazon is sending me a new shipment and I get to keep this one. About 1/4 of the Part A leaked out and covered my porch

Be careful, amines are not great for your skin and can cause all kinds of rashes and contact dermatitis. Glove up.

If your porch can stand up to some acetone, that's the best solvent to clean it off with.

Also, covering the inside surfaces of your form box with Formica will make that thing pop right out with some proper wax. If it's flat and covered with Formica, that bottom surface will be a very good start for the finished upper table surface. If you're going to do it in stages, find out the time window of when you can pour another layer. Outside of that window, you're not going to get proper polymer crosslinking between the layers.

You can use caulk in the corners to seal it because it's a one-time-use box. I used to get the cheap remnants of whatever ugly Formica that Lowes or HD was trying to clearance out, to make mold return flanges and things like that when I was doing a lot of carbon work.

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Be careful, amines are not great for your skin and can cause all kinds of rashes and contact dermatitis. Glove up.

If your porch can stand up to some acetone, that's the best solvent to clean it off with.

Also, covering the inside surfaces of your form box with Formica will make that thing pop right out with some proper wax. If it's flat and covered with Formica, that bottom surface will be a very good start for the finished upper table surface. If you're going to do it in stages, find out the time window of when you can pour another layer. Outside of that window, you're not going to get proper polymer crosslinking between the layers.

You can use caulk in the corners to seal it because it's a one-time-use box. I used to get the cheap remnants of whatever ugly Formica that Lowes or HD was trying to clearance out, to make mold return flanges and things like that when I was doing a lot of carbon work.

For sure. rubber gloves were worn at all time handling the epoxy. I covered the inside of the box with lowes home siding tape. Apparently thats what a lot of people use. So far it seems to be holding up.

This stuff sets up quick and HOT. I'm already out of epoxy and will have to wait on more to get here.

 

[Fabrik8]

For sure. rubber gloves were worn at all time handling the epoxy. I covered the inside of the box with lowes home siding tape. Apparently thats what a lot of people use. So far it seems to be holding up.

This stuff sets up quick and HOT. I'm already out of epoxy and will have to wait on more to get here.

That's a good winter project so you can control the rate of exotherm a bit better. That's always a problem with a thick section of resin like that. Not a big deal if you're going to do a lot of post-finishing anyway, but the faster the cure rate the higher the amount of shrinkage/warpage/etc. Epoxy is much more dimensionally stable for percentage of shrink than polyester or vinylester, but it still does shrink and it shrinks much worse at high exotherm than with a slow cure rate, and also without any reinforcement matrix.

So you're doing neat resin (just resin, no fabrics or whatever), in thick section, in warm weather. Gonna get hot.

 

[Futbalfantic]

Be careful, amines are not great for your skin and can cause all kinds of rashes and contact dermatitis. Glove up.

If your porch can stand up to some acetone, that's the best solvent to clean it off with.

Also, covering the inside surfaces of your form box with Formica will make that thing pop right out with some proper wax. If it's flat and covered with Formica, that bottom surface will be a very good start for the finished upper table surface. If you're going to do it in stages, find out the time window of when you can pour another layer. Outside of that window, you're not going to get proper polymer crosslinking between the layers.

You can use caulk in the corners to seal it because it's a one-time-use box. I used to get the cheap remnants of whatever ugly Formica that Lowes or HD was trying to clearance out, to make mold return flanges and things like that when I was doing a lot of carbon work.

I have a bunch of Formica if you need some. I have a 120x60 sheet and a boat load of smaller

 

[jeepinmatt]

I have a bunch of Formica if you need some. I have a 120x60 sheet and a boat load of smaller

I knew who posted that without scrolling up to read the username

 

[ncsutj]

Facebook Marketplace: Wood Planes - Antiques & Collectibles - Lancaster, South Carolina

Not sure if this is a deal or not but saw it and thought of this thread.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[YJJPWrangler]

Well I learned a hard lesson last night. Got the rest of my epoxy in and decided to work on the table. The last time I poured epoxy, I had great luck with pouring, popping bubbles, and then pouring another layer on it, repeating this process till I ran out. Almost no bubbles at all and it looked really good. So, I did the same thing last night. The damn piece now looks like it exploded in air bubbles in the top layer . The only thing I can think of is that when I poured the first layer, it was mid 80s out and during the day. The second layer was poured at night when it was high 60s. I'm thinking that temperature difference caused the epoxy to set slower on the 2nd go round and release bubbles all at once instead of over time. I think I can still salvage this piece by flipping it over and using it that way but we will see. Hard lesson learned. Woodworking takes patience, resin working takes a hell of a lot of patience. Looking back, I should have greatly increased my time between pours to make sure it was adequately set.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Well I learned a hard lesson last night. Got the rest of my epoxy in and decided to work on the table. The last time I poured epoxy, I had great luck with pouring, popping bubbles, and then pouring another layer on it, repeating this process till I ran out. Almost no bubbles at all and it looked really good. So, I did the same thing last night. The damn piece now looks like it exploded in air bubbles in the top layer . The only thing I can think of is that when I poured the first layer, it was mid 80s out and during the day. The second layer was poured at night when it was high 60s. I'm thinking that temperature difference caused the epoxy to set slower on the 2nd go round and release bubbles all at once instead of over time. I think I can still salvage this piece by flipping it over and using it that way but we will see. Hard lesson learned. Woodworking takes patience, resin working takes a hell of a lot of patience. Looking back, I should have greatly increased my time between pours to make sure it was adequately set.

We have done a number of epoxy projects over the last year or so.... I learned to let it cure out between layers. Atleast long enough that you can sand/cut out the blemishes. Wet sand it good, and then apply a cover coat.

 

[Fabrik8]

Well I learned a hard lesson last night. Got the rest of my epoxy in and decided to work on the table. The last time I poured epoxy, I had great luck with pouring, popping bubbles, and then pouring another layer on it, repeating this process till I ran out. Almost no bubbles at all and it looked really good. So, I did the same thing last night. The damn piece now looks like it exploded in air bubbles in the top layer . The only thing I can think of is that when I poured the first layer, it was mid 80s out and during the day. The second layer was poured at night when it was high 60s. I'm thinking that temperature difference caused the epoxy to set slower on the 2nd go round and release bubbles all at once instead of over time. I think I can still salvage this piece by flipping it over and using it that way but we will see. Hard lesson learned. Woodworking takes patience, resin working takes a hell of a lot of patience. Looking back, I should have greatly increased my time between pours to make sure it was adequately set.

You've got a few things at play here, but here are some tips from my many hours of making composite parts over the years:

• After mixing the resin, wait for the bubbles to dissipate before pouring if you can.
• Warm the resin, and warm what is going to be in the resin (the wood in this case).
• You can use a heat gun or torch to help pop/dissipate bubbles, but that only works a certain distance from the surface because you're locally heating the resin and also changing the bubble pressure.. This is another argument for doing multiple pours where you can control the bubbles better.
• Most of the time, epoxy will not release it's own bubbles during the cure. Usually bubbles are from air entrained in the resin during mixing, or bubbles that cling to a surface during pouring.
• Most of the bubbles that magically appear are from whatever is in the resin, which is this case is probably bubbles coming from the wood. You can seal the wood with a coat of resin first.
• If you really want to get rid of those pesky little shits, you can use a vacuum pot to de-gas the resin, but that's not going to solve problems with bubbles coming from the wood.

Most of the parts I made were in a mold and usually used either vacuum consolidation (vaccum bagging) or resin infusion, both of which get rid of resin bubbles quite handily. They're a SOB to get rid of when making molds though, especially when trapped against gelcoat where you can't see them right away.

Like I said earlier, complete curing between layers is not ideal (can't get proper crosslinking outside of a certain time window) but is not really an issue for cosmetic parts like you're doing where strength doesn't matter at all. As long as you're not affecting the optical clarity so it doesn't look weird, no problems. The difference is with complete curing between pouring layers, you have multiple layers that are just stuck to each other. If there isn't complete curing between pouring layers, the layers will actually end up as one solid piece of polymer.

 

[92_SquareEye]

Glad to see this thread resurface...I love building out of wood. Here's a cabinet I did a while back. Hope to a bible case out of some Acacia wood for my next project. /G\

 

[ramjo]

I've been working on a built-in for the tv this week. Still have to source some hinges and a Cremone bolt that the wife wants. The top was some 2x6 oak from old barn on the property and the doors are old windows from the house we remodeled.

 

[ghost]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh that is a sweet set up for that TT. I've been looking at the Maple Shade stuff for my record storage. Would love to know more about that set up? TT? Speakers? Amplification? Is there a Vintage HiFi or HiFi Thread on here?

 

[josh m]

Oh that is a sweet set up for that TT. I've been looking at the Maple Shade stuff for my record storage. Would love to know more about that set up? TT? Speakers? Amplification? Is there a Vintage HiFi or HiFi Thread on here?

I wish I could answer all those questions for you, but I just built the desk. Lol. We've got a old bloupunkt Arkansas from the 40s that I'd like to get running in tip top. Maybe you can start a thread to school us.


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[ramjo]

Sprayed some finish on a bookcase my father-in-law built for my boy and a low-tech phone speaker I made.

 

[YotaOnRocks]

Sprayed some finish on a bookcase my father-in-law built for my boy and a low-tech phone speaker I made.

View attachment 303780


View attachment 303781

If thats what your going to listen to go ahead and fill that speaker box with concrete to help muffle the sound.