selling your rig? not here unless you're popular...

88jeepster said:
I ask for advise to get different experiences and opinions of what something is/was/going to be. but advise like running 33s on XJ or ranger stock axles is dumb, that's not really advise for weekend wheelers and DD or driving around the woods to my fishing hole. the other stuff was great to know about the 8.8 and 44upgrade in front and such but comeon, don't run 33s without bigger gears and axles, really. you can put 33s on a freakin geo tracker and be ok for some trail riding so I just hate advise that's always gota be for the pros. I like advise for the pros but also for the mild folks who just love the woods of all kinds and are gentle with their vehicles. thanks for your concern though.
BTW, apparently I have some practicing to do with this ranger long wheel base. I got stuck today with those stupid stock tires and well, i'm not used to the long wheelbase and crap so finally put them down to 7psi and made it out but this thing is quite different than a XJ. open diffs suck too and that's fixing to chance real soon and quick: welders are my best friend!!!! damn rear is not an LS as I quickly found that out today and front, well....didn't do too well wither so welder is coming out for front and rear along with new warn hubs.
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I think you should weld the drive shaft u-joints together. The you can run 33's no problem..
 
I think you should put the biggest mudtire you can run w the stock susp. and see how it performs in the mud and hills before welding the diffs, you might be suprised. I also wonder why anyone would weld the rear on a DD?
 
Put huge tires.. cut out the wells.. put a doubler on it. And call it built.. you're going to anyway..
 
mommucked said:
I think you should put the biggest mudtire you can run w the stock susp. and see how it performs in the mud and hills before welding the diffs, you might be suprised. I also wonder why anyone would weld the rear on a DD?
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I ordered some 2" coils for now, new warn hubs, weld front at least for now since won't affect 2wd, doing 2" body lift and minor trimming to fit 33s comfortably for now. I was pretty disappointed today on how bad stock tires suck unless at 6psi. my xj I had in regular 4lo did it no problem with street tires at 20psi but this thing had to go down to 6psi to finally make it out. I'm just not used to extra 2foot wheel base I guess and how it handles/performs. gonna take some getting used to. welding rear on DD isn't so bad, just have to be mindful of turning sharp but still don't go out much since I work at home.
 
gonna hold off on welding rear though and hope having the front locked in will do most of the job and try to hold out for more stout 8.8 rear down the road. found out today I have the 7.5 not 8.8, oops.
 
wife says she saw both tires spinning in rear a lot of the time but not the full time. does this mean it's an LS but a weak ls like someone pointed out earlier or just doing ok being open? if I put it on jack stands in 2wd they both spin front or back same time though???
 
88jeepster said:
wife says she saw both tires spinning in rear a lot of the time but not the full time. does this mean it's an LS but a weak ls like someone pointed out earlier or just doing ok being open? if I put it on jack stands in 2wd they both spin front or back same time though???
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That means you have rock axles and rear steer,
Awesome!
 
If there is no load or equal traction at the tires on a open rear end both tires could spin. But once one of the tires bind up or gets traction, then power will go the path of least resistance/ to the tire not bound up. On jackstands put truck in neutral and spin one of the rear tires. On a open rear the opposite tire will spin in a different direction. Ls or locked rear. Both tires will spin same way.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
 
My poop smells more interesting than his "build"
 
Amazing. truly amazing.

This guy knows it all and argues with everyone, but he's gotten stuck at least 2x IN THIS THREAD.
 
powerstrokin04 said:
If there is no load or equal traction at the tires on a open rear end both tires could spin. But once one of the tires bind up or gets traction, then power will go the path of least resistance/ to the tire not bound up. On jackstands put truck in neutral and spin one of the rear tires. On a open rear the opposite tire will spin in a different direction. Ls or locked rear. Both tires will spin same way.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2
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unless when you spin it backwards you can hear it ratcheting. At least I think I remember hearing this with my old jeep that had lockers.
 
pigeon.jpg
 
Off topic, but did anyone read the comments on that video? Talk about creepy.
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What has been seen , cannot be unseen........I just threw up a little.
 
update. pretty happy today finished the ranger C-Clip eliminator, welded carrier in front, 2"springs front, new bearings, grease and fluids and brakes. still waiting on the new hubs, these won't go much farther (guy I got it from must have wheeled it often cause drivers side hub is about stripped out) glad to see my ranger sitting level now and knowing that I got front pull from both tires. I did a C-Clip eliminator with 2 echo springs, collar and bead of weld from the ranger forums and I'll be damned, it actually worked for less than 15 bucks!!!that's was some great ingenuity from the guy who came up with it. I'm getting used to a truck but still going to have to buy another XJ soon. hopefully getting some 33s by the weekend: real tired of street crap. I broke my side mirror and hell of a dent in door when rocking it out the other day. "good thing it ain't a pretty truck for looks.lol
 
ohh yeah, locking front made all the difference in that same spot that I dug the other day. didn't hardly have to give it none so have to say FIRST TIME ever having front locked instead of rear and I can say it definitely helps more than the rear. saving for actual street friendly thingy for the rear!
 
How did you correct the alignment on the ttb front when you put the 2" coils on.

And yes, you can run 33's on a jeep 30/35 combo. Just don't use lockers and use limited slips instead, although, you WILL go through a ton of parts if you do anything more than puddle running. I outta know, been running like that for 2 years... and 3 rear gear sets later...
 
well, it's a work truck, scrap truck and something to go camping in. I always like having the peace of mind that I've got at least 3 wheels catching at all times hope to be 4 soon that way I can stay off the gas as much as possible. my wheeling style has always been slow crawl speeds with as much traction as I can get which is why I usually weld rears or fronts or both maybe, run bigger tires than most would but I just stay off the gas and that's how I avoid breaking very little stuff. I've learned the hard way that WOT on even 31s and bigger is when i'v broken crap and sure its fun to run wide open but I would rather creep it slow, get some grip and enjoy smooth ride.
 
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