"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Jody Treadway said:
I wondered the same thing. But I'm 99% sure he has mega overkill boatsides on it and the mounts are welded to them.
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If you look in the background of the picture the other mount appears to be welded to something more substantial. I was curious to see if the foreground mount was the same on the backside. Not that I would be surprised if it wasn't but like I said, curiosity.
 
Felt good to get back at it today for couple hours..got a pretty legit truss made..I think..well I like it a lot
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And here's my beadlock rims and 39.5s to top it off.
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Holy cow no more drilling screws into rims guys!!!
 
Making little more progress..to tomorr I will have the upper links done, whew patience has been getting the best of me I'll admit (I am not used to measure 10times, study measure again then cut and weld lol. I got all compulsive on the upper body mounts and axle mounts took me FOREVER to get em same exact spot centered :mad:)
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Can you get the bolt out of the passenger side upper?


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iwaxmyjimmy said:
Can you get the bolt out of the passenger side upper?


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Lol lol lol yes BARELY stupid me. That's how I am, spend 4hrs to get it all right and even centered then don't even see the bolt issue. It clears though
 
marty79 said:
Lol lol lol yes BARELY stupid me. That's how I am, spend 4hrs to get it all right and even centered then don't even see the bolt issue. It clears though
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If not then you could've just cut the bolt off and put one in the correct way
 
1stgenxxx said:
If not then you could've just cut the bolt off and put one in the correct way
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Bolts are in right way btw, they look opposite but there not.
Mac5005 said:
Did you make the chassis end upper mount adjustable with 3 holes?


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No, I'm going by the numbers I had on the calculator and send it. As many have said, get it close and build it. No magic number and this will end up better than anything I've ever cobbled up. Time too has gotten to me so I have to get it going before I do something stupid
 
You need to be focusing on the cooler mount.
 
marty79 said:
Bolts are in right way btw, they look opposite but there not.

No, I'm going by the numbers I had on the calculator and send it. As many have said, get it close and build it. No magic number and this will end up better than anything I've ever cobbled up. Time too has gotten to me so I have to get it going before I do something stupid
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Those are all the reasons to make the brackets have 3 holes vs 1, so you can tune the numbers for what you like in the seat. Exactly bc there is no magic perfect setup.

Facepalm.
 
Mac5005 said:
Those are all the reasons to make the brackets have 3 holes vs 1, so you can tune the numbers for what you like in the seat. Exactly bc there is no magic perfect setup.

Facepalm.
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Yea. Then you could try all 3 holes and then use the one that works the best. :huggy:
 
Mac5005 said:
Those are all the reasons to make the brackets have 3 holes vs 1, so you can tune the numbers for what you like in the seat. Exactly bc there is no magic perfect setup.

Facepalm.
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I know your right, I just couldn't get myself to do it. I've lost a whole week, welder broke, I messed up 2bungs already had to redo, I've kinda lost it so last night I said screw it it's going where it's going and that's that.
BELIEVE ME when I say it's stupid rediculously impressive I've lasted this long...
1stgenxxx said:
keep kickin ass man
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This is where I'm back to now
 
Well here it is holy cow I have a truangtriang 4 link
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This is awesomeness
 
For the build you're doing I would lean more for the 4-link, for abuse, you aren't running any crazy mods on the engine, you have space to work with! It will take stress off the sub-frame, if you have one. It's not as easy to adjust, but it is stronger. I don't see anyway to get rid of the trackbar, not enough triangulation.
 
Wait what..I went through days of making this triangulated link setup just to still have to need a track bar...aww hell nah better be joking Chris
 
Oh snap this gonna be a stable rig fellas..it's gotta come down almost 6" so gonna end up lower than it was on 37s I believe...
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marty79 said:
Wait what..I went through days of making this triangulated link setup just to still have to need a track bar...aww hell nah better be joking Chris
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I inferred that he was talking about the front suspension.
 
so someone give me little heads up of what can I expect from my exhaust sound/performance/backpressure and such with it being done out of 1.75" HREW. I have lots of it extra and i hate exhaust getting ruined in one hit after hours of getting one to sound and run right so figured why not put the HREW under there tucked up as far as can go and done...beefy exhaust!! LOL I've got it ran all the way to the rear already just waiting to get fuel lines routed back and hooked up to crank it and hear it run without muffler first than with it...anyone ever do HREW Exhaust?

2 question: I used front stock XJ springs in the rear which gave me 3.5-4" lift but at ride height they are compressed maybe 1"-1.5" more than on front of stock XJ...So, does this mean that the rear of my jeep is that heavy or am I missing something (worn out springs). I don't get how the rear could be that heavy compared to front with motor...the cage back there isn't that much and bumper isn't nothing special with plastic gas tank so i'm little perplexed...
 
exhaust - DON'T do it. The exhaust stock is either 2" or 2-1/4" 16 gauge tube. That 1.75" HREW has a much thicker wall, meaning the ID is that much smaller. The motor will be a DAWG. Could speak to the sound, other than probably tinny and annoying. I wouldn't even think about it.

2 - I'm thinking that cage is heavier than you think. If you can get a good estimate of total footage of tubing, someone here (I volunteered already) could tell you how much that cage weighs. I'd be willing to bet it's as heavy as the front.
 
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