trailer build question

Ron said:
Dead serious and not trying to hate on them.
I ran them for several years because it was all I had.

I can’t explain why they suck because like you said they are rated for way more weight. Maybe it is speed? MH movers travel pretty slow.

But I can say I don’t think I ever made a trip longer than 20 miles without changing one. Of course for a long time I was running the $15 eBay ones..seriously you used to could buy 10 on eBay for 200 rims included ..then got tired of blowouts and went and talked to the Hudson brothers trailers guys out near Monroe. They built theirs with those axles back then. Paid way too much for tires from them and they last about the same.

Then I finally ponied up for some 6 lug dexters and haven’t looked back.

but totally this isn’t meant to be a pick on John post , but a serious I would have 2 spares post.
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He got two of the axles that you give me about 50 years ago.
 
upnover said:
He got two of the axles that you give me about 50 years ago.
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Damn...Then those are the axles me and Bubba built the trailer I still pull around on.
 
upnover said:
He got two of the axles that you give me about 50 years ago.
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Ron said:
Damn...Then those are the axles me and Bubba built the trailer I still pull around on.
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well can either of you tell me anything about them...trying to figure out if they're "worthy" of replacing bearings and brakes or just use them as throwaways.

and another serious question, How the crap do you get the stupid rims to mount 100% true round...:kaioken::confused: for the life of me I can't. I've tried probably solid 45min per stupid tire and I've gotten all 4 to be darn close but brother was behind me when towing and could see slight hair of a wobble, which could feel in the truck. Otherwise, trailer pulled amazing empty and with the Jeep on it this weekend...just need to get stupid rims to mount perfectly straight...I've read that it's a pain no matter what you do.....any advise, thanks
 
set you a soda can right next to the tire maybe 2 inches away. spin the tire and look at the gap between the can and the tire. Whatever part needs to come toward the trailer more tighten that nut down a little.
 
That tire style doesnt like speed. When you get into 70 plus speeds they will pop all the time
 
jeepyjman said:
set you a soda can right next to the tire maybe 2 inches away. spin the tire and look at the gap between the can and the tire. Whatever part needs to come toward the trailer more tighten that nut down a little.
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I've tried this but that's the whole thing 30-45 minutes later of doing this I've gotten it almost there but no matter what I just cannot get it all the way and no I don't ever tow a butt 55-60 Max lol, thanks
 
Gotta admit Im not really sure what tow's great but has a vibration really mean. Not sure what you are evaluating there in the tow's great comment.

But...that said.
If those are the axles I'm thinking of, we used them under a trailer we built in 2000-2001. Pulled them out in ~07-08ish...so man my history with them is ions ago.

As a general rule those style of rims are a pain to get tightened even. Id always tighten the very bottom bolt until it almost touches then rotate it 3rd lug degrees and match that one and work them down that way. But nothing that was impossible.

And make sure the wedges are all turned the correct way....made that mistake on a roadside change one time...and only 1 time...
 
Ron said:
. Not sure what you are evaluating there in the tow's great comment.
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meaning it pulled really good but I could feel the shake in the rear of the truck or in my Tahoe both of them did it which my brother could tell it was a trailer tires with a very very slight wobble to em. which of course I admit like I said I've gotten the tires almost perfect but I just can't get that last little bit I guess I'll have to keep trying again
 
Ron said:
Id always tighten the very bottom bolt until it almost touches then rotate it 3rd lug degrees and match that one and work them down that way
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This is how I got going to be as close as I got them lol
 
Fighting this will be an ongoing battle with those axles. They just we never intended to go down the road at highway speeds. Really just one trip and done. Imagine finally getting it right, then having to change to a spare and trying to line it up again on the side of the road.

marty79 said:
I don't ever tow a butt 55-60 Max lol, thanks
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That's gonna make for a long, dangerous ride to Harlan or anywhere else. With average speeds on those roads 70+ you will be a dangerous highway plug on most any highway. If your tow rig is sized right and your load is placed properly you should be able to run around 70 just fine. I usually run around 70-75 and people are always dying to get around me. Its the worst when you run up on some dude going 55 when everyone else is going 70 and you cant get over so you gotta jam on the brakes, as does everyone behind you. That's how accidents happen.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Its the worst when you run up on some dude going 55 when everyone else is going 70 and you cant get over so you gotta jam on the brakes, as does everyone behind you. That's how accidents happen.
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Hey, you were the one that ran up behind me going up Fancy Gap, you know that V10 does not like that hill :D
 
marty79 said:
and another serious question, How the crap do you get the stupid rims to mount 100% true round...:kaioken::confused: for the life of me I can't. I've tried probably solid 45min per stupid tire and I've gotten all 4 to be darn close but brother was behind me when towing and could see slight hair of a wobble, which could feel in the truck. Otherwise, trailer pulled amazing empty and with the Jeep on it this weekend...just need to get stupid rims to mount perfectly straight...I've read that it's a pain no matter what you do.....any advise, thanks
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I've never trued a mobile home wheel, but I have seen people do this exact method before with Dayton wheels for trucks (don't they kinda work the same?).

Here's what I've seen people do with the Dayton wheels. Apparently you knock the wheel with a hammer after loosening the nuts, to shift the wheel around on the taper of the hub. Tighten, check runout. Loosen, smack with hammer to move wheel, check runout. Tighten, check runout. Repeat.
In your case, repeat until you decide to buy different axles so you don't have this problem.

Make/find something that is an "L" that you can mount to the trailer to use as a crude runout indicator. Bent piece of scrap, two pieces of metal welded in an L, whatever. Doesn't matter. C-clamp one end to the trailer frame, and visegrip something to the other end to use as a pointer. There's no load on it because nothing is touching it, you just want it to stay in place. I'm just suggesting C-clamps a vice grips because you probably already have them, and it's all it needs to be.

I have done this runout indicator method too, but to check true on a standard aluminum wheel after hitting a curb.

I drew scribbled this in about 15 seconds while microwaving my lunch; laughing is fine. It's a cross section of the wheel/tire, to illustrate that you want the pointer close to the wheel rim so you can see the wobble as you rotate the tire. You're looking down from above, like you're leaning over it.


MobileHome.jpg
 
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Marty. as said, I got those axles from Ron, a long time ago. As far as getting the wheels perfect, I never did. I didn't run those axles, but had similar on my Hudson trailer. I got them as close as I could, and went with it. Buying new tires, I got between a year and 2 years out of my tires. What I did learn, you don't plug one of them, you change it out, then take it to a tire store, and get a patch put on the inside, and run a tube. I ran 80 PSI in mine. If they are gonna cause you to bust a vessel in your head, best just pull them out and go buy another set.
 
BigClay said:
Hey, you were the one that ran up behind me going up Fancy Gap, you know that V10 does not like that hill :D
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That’s undersrabke and expected on a hill. But imagine running 70 down I81 and running up on some dude towing at 50mph, not good.
 
upnover said:
Marty. as said, I got those axles from Ron, a long time ago. As far as getting the wheels perfect, I never did. I didn't run those axles, but had similar on my Hudson trailer. I got them as close as I could, and went with it. Buying new tires, I got between a year and 2 years out of my tires. What I did learn, you don't plug one of them, you change it out, then take it to a tire store, and get a patch put on the inside, and run a tube. I ran 80 PSI in mine. If they are gonna cause you to bust a vessel in your head, best just pull them out and go buy another set.
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I gotcha thanks. I'll keep looking for a normal set to put on here. Seems too much a headache to deal with.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Really just one trip and done. Imagine finally getting it right, then having to change to a spare and trying to line it up again on the side of the road.
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LOL LMBO that's what bothers me more than anything about this setup now that you mention it.
 
Fabrik8 said:
I've never trued a mobile home wheel, but I have seen people do this exact method before with Dayton wheels for trucks (don't they kinda work the same?).

Here's what I've seen people do with the Dayton wheels. Apparently you knock the wheel with a hammer after loosening the nuts, to shift the wheel around on the taper of the hub. Tighten, check runout. Loosen, smack with hammer to move wheel, check runout. Tighten, check runout. Repeat.
In your case, repeat until you decide to buy different axles so you don't have this problem.

Make/find something that is an "L" that you can mount to the trailer to use as a crude runout indicator. Bent piece of scrap, two pieces of metal welded in an L, whatever. Doesn't matter. C-clamp one end to the trailer frame, and visegrip something to the other end to use as a pointer. There's no load on it because nothing is touching it, you just want it to stay in place. I'm just suggesting C-clamps a vice grips because you probably already have them, and it's all it needs to be.

I have done this runout indicator method too, but to check true on a standard aluminum wheel after hitting a curb.

I drew scribbled this in about 15 seconds while microwaving my lunch; laughing is fine. It's a cross section of the wheel/tire, to illustrate that you want the pointer close to the wheel rim so you can see the wobble as you rotate the tire. You're looking down from above, like you're leaning over it.


View attachment 315956
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Hey....just put a straight edge to the inside of the rim lip. Unless you just don't want to bend over to see it. Like the coke can sitting out side anything static will do.
Paint, rust, and dents to any of the related will throw it off. Over tightening the hardware to overcome the alignment should also be considered.
 
For the record, any trailer is going to bounce and "oscillate" while driving most especially while unloaded or lightly loaded. Even if you got the unbalanced out of round china bias ply tires and donut rims dead nuts it will still do this. It will still do this even if you switched to regular 8 lug axles.
 
braxton357 said:
For the record, any trailer is going to bounce and "oscillate" while driving most especially while unloaded or lightly loaded. Even if you got the unbalanced out of round china bias ply tires and donut rims dead nuts it will still do this. It will still do this even if you switched to regular 8 lug axles.
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Exactly. My trailer has some vibration that I can feel in the cab while towing it empty. It's just the natural vibration of the frame as it's being hauled down the road. Granted, it's only a 16 foot 82" wide tandem with 3500 pound axles, but still...same same.
 
braxton357 said:
For the record, any trailer is going to bounce and "oscillate" while driving most especially while unloaded or lightly loaded. Even if you got the unbalanced out of round china bias ply tires and donut rims dead nuts it will still do this. It will still do this even if you switched to regular 8 lug axles.
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Arched trailer don't. Silly peasant.
 
obullfish said:
:lol: I laughed way too hard at that.
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Same. I remember getting bitched out for being careless with the weed wacker and fugging up the under pending
 
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