'82 Jeep Scrambler Daily Driver

Got my little shop cleaned up and organized after the move and now just need to "live it" to get it fully organized.

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This place is like the Taj Mahal compared to the little backyard shed I was previously working out of.

I removed the original master cylinder and vacuum booster and started to get the new hydroboost prepped. I made a simple little removal tool for the hydroboost push rod.

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Up until now, with everything I've read, I was under the impression that the hydroboost mounted to the bracket and lever assembly that the vacuum boost mounts to, and I was very confused as to why people always talked about the pedal rod. Once I went to mock up the hydroboost I finally realized that the unit REPLACES the whole bracket assembly, and that's why PartsMike sells that bracket I bought. :shaking:

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Kinda wish I had left the push rod on now so I at least knew how much I needed to adjust it :rolleyes:
 
The 1-7/8" nut holding the mounting plate to the Astro Van hydroboost took more work than I though.

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I had originally wanted to make a simple socket out of 2x2x16ga tubing but couldn't find a 4" drop anywhere. Soooo I used the air hammer to push out the studs, mounted it to the old master cylinder in the vise and used a 24" pipe wrench to get it off.

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I mocked up the PartsMike plate to the car to get the orientation correct (it's offset), marked it, and painted it.

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Also cleaned up the original plunger(?) from the vacuum booster as I need to reuse it for the hydroboost.

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The brake pedal pushrod turned into a bigger conundrum than I had originally imagined. The distance from the snout of the hydroboost to the brake pedal stud was only about 2.5", much shorter than any of the off the shelf adjustable pushrod kits you can buy.

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I tried a few times to make my own pushrod, but never managed to recreate the ball stud end to where I felt comfortable with it, so I ended up taking the original pushrod to my local machine shop to get threaded in their lathe. I tried to thread it at home with a die but couldn't grip the shank well enough to get threads started.

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To assemble the adjustable rod I used a coupling nut and one of the rods from the original vacuum boost pedal assembly. I had to cut the coupling nut short enough to get to my 2.5" overall length and also taper it so it would fit inside the snout of the hydroboost. I was also worried I wouldn't be able to fit a jam nut in so I drilled and tapped a set screw.

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Finally mounted in the Jeep

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It's amazing how long this particular process took only having a few hours a weekend to work on it. I also think there are some efficiencies to be made with some parts bin stuff form McMaster Carr. I might pick up a junkyard hydroboost unit to see what I can dig up
 
Next was mounting the master cylinder. I'm using a CJ unit as I read somewhere it would work.
This process would have been easy, but it snowballed as I had accidentally adjusted my brake pedal pushrod too far and the cylinder in the hydroboost was compressed a little making the master cylinder pushrod not fit.
Me being me, and over thinking things, I assumed it was because I was trying to use the CJ pushrod instead of the GM pushrod so I took a trip to the junkyard to grab one.

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Well of course the JY piece was too long too, that's when it finally dawned on me that I might have my pedal out of adjustment. Once the pedal was adjusted properly the CJ pushrod fit without incident.
One thing though, as you can see in the last image the GM pushrod uses a spring to help push the cylinder back. I did NOT use that, as the CJ pushrod has a large flat base making the spring much too stiff. I'm a little concerned right now that might cause an issue. But I'll find out on my first test drive :)

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Also while I was at the junk yard I picked up the hoses I need. I'm going to only use the hydroboost ends to make my hoses, as the Jeep already has fittings on the pump and steering box.

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Assembled and so far no leaks :)



The guys at the line shop had a time matching the bends on my mock-up and we had to use some conversion fittings but it clears the hood. I do think once I’m mobile again I will take it back to the line shop so they can see the vehicle and maybe make another set of lines that are more visually appealing :p

One issue though. My damn brake lights won’t turn off :mad:

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The brake lights were staying on because I had accidentally bumped the brake light switch while I was getting the brake pedal figured out. Some contortioning and finger yoga later I got it all adjusted properly and everything is good to go.

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I had a TIME bleeding the brakes. Rusted, stripped bleed screws, a brake hose burst in the front, luckily this happened while I was in the driveway, but I got that complete and took it out for a drive. Then I got bold and just started driving it.

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Now, however I’m chasing a stumbling issue :shaking:
 
Hunting down the stumbling issue and going to just go ahead and take care of some items while I'm at it.
I installed an OE CJ 20 gallon tank thinking I might have issues with the stock 15 gallon. The 20 gallon tank has a simpler venting system than the 15, which runs through a rollover valve and a separate vent assembly. I also wanted to see if I had an issue with the float/pickup assembly in the 15 gallon tank.

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As you can see, the return line on the 15 gallon tank had a nice crimp in it, and one of the vent lines was completely blocked off, so hopefully that will solve some of the issues.
Once I pulled the sending unit out I noticed that the stock filter sock had completely disintegrated over the years as well.

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Here's a comparison shot of the two tanks in the Jeep

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As you can see, I had to cut off the excess from the bolts in the shackles, and remove the exhaust from where the PO had run it. This will at least give me an opportunity to run it in the stock location.

While I'm chasing running issues I'm going to go ahead and swap the stock ignition system with an HEI system. I did the Team Rush upgrade when I first got the Jeep, but never changed the coil which is of an unknown age, and I wanted to make the engine compartment a little cleaner by thinning down some wires. This is the one from CRT Performance. Not bad for $99 including shipping.

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Looks good.
Where / how did you route the exhaust?
For the Dizzy, do you have to replace the new gear on the new distributor with the old gear so that they gears play well together?
Also, does you fuel gauge read correct in both full and empty modes?
 
Where / how did you route the exhaust?
Didn't :lol: I want to redo the exhaust all together so I'm just going to DIY a hanger and a quick turn out to get me by for a little while.

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For the Dizzy, do you have to replace the new gear on the new distributor with the old gear so that they gears play well together?
According to CRT it's the correct hardness, we will see I guess.

Also, does you fuel gauge read correct in both full and empty modes?
Haven't had a chance to check yet, but I doubt it. I got in a hurry and forgot to measure the ohms of the sending unit. I've got long enough leads on it though that I think I can do it while it's still in the Jeep. I then need to calibrate the fuel gauge, but my dash is a whole other project.
 
Haven't had a chance to check yet, but I doubt it
Hey @Creekin my fuel gauge doesn’t read correct :p I’ll fix that at some point.

Got the HEI distributor installed, it was a very easy swap.

I also got the 2150 tuned the best it’s ever been! Replaced the too short pump arm with one I made using off the shelf parts from Lowe’s, and drilled a new, inboard hole on the accelerator pump arm.
That combo as almost got the off idle stumble completely tuned out.

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Finally decided to replace my dry rotted flares. The Omix kit is reportedly the only one that actually fits the CJ8, but true to Omix (or Crown) fitment sucks. I actually didn’t think they fit at all at first, but I needed to install them from the top down instead of bottom up.

These are right after I got the bottom two holes mounted and couldn’t get the tops to line up at all
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Everything lined up if I started from the top though ... who knows

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I’ve got a new rubber body mount kit and some new shackles and bushings to install before warmer weather gets here.

Front gear ratio still doesn’t match the rear, and I still want to do a FI swap. One thing at a time!
 
Wellllll for better or worse (probably worse) this is getting put back into daily duty. I have always wanted it to be in a condition where I could just hop in it and drive to see my buddy in Telluride if I wanted to, and I figure (and what I sold to my wife) that instead of spending money on a second vehicle that is driven 95% of it's time around town anyway, I'd just spend it on this.

I've been borrowing a car since I sold my truck in early January and I have to give it back by the end of March. Between now and then I have to, first and foremost, move to a new house, then fix the headlight wiring, which I think is just a bad ground. I also have a relay block to add to the headlight circuit.

Figure out why my horn isn't working, which I'm thinking (hoping) is just a bad rely.

Finish refurbishing the heater box and do the blazer motor upgrade.
The entire heater assembly has been riding around in the back seat with me for about a month now. I tried to order the new control cables from MTS but they're of course out of stock until the end of March.

Lastly, to future proof I'm going to install a Holley Stealth EFI 4150... on the 258. Holley said it will run on the 258 no problem until I find a V8 to throw in there.
I've gone back and forth a hundred times on what to do here, but I figure this way I can get EFI on the 258 now while I find an engine, then just swap that entire EFI system onto the new engine without too much of a fuss.

Until I move though, it's still sitting at my moms house in Raleigh under three tarps.

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Trudging on to get this back to DD status.
Spent the last week working on the headlights and marker lights. The side marker lights have never worked (much like the horn) and the passenger side headlight was always half as bright as the drivers side. Once I pulled the loom out I could see all the shitty splices and awful grounds that had been done over the years.
Repaired all that, and installed a power steering cooler while I had easy access.
Next week I’m going to work on adding in the relays for the high and low beams.

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Today also marks me being officially “behind schedule”. My mother in law asked for her car that I’ve been driving back this weekend, but I’m going to need at least another week, proooobably two.
 
My mother in law asked for her car that I’ve been driving back this weekend, but I’m going to need at least another week, proooobably two.

"The pattern is full, so it's gonna be 3-4 weeks before we're free to return it" (I mean, why rush yourself now? 🤣)

Unless she's gonna come get it? I despise a "Native American giver"! :rolleyes:
 
While the heater and air box are out, I figured this is a perfect time to clean up the wiring behind the dash.
Probably not good timing schedule wise, but.. meh.

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