Panty Soaker 5000 - C3 Stingray LS Swap Blower Build

Finished removing the stock fuel lines. Took longer than expected due to the fact some clamp bolts were most definitely installed before the body was installed. So it took some unique finagle skills.

Got the side tubes mocked up. It installs with T bolts which were impossible to use without dropping inside the frame. After the 10th cuss session I tacked them in place.

With the side tubes in places I can now cut up the primaries and reconfigure them into a 4in1 collector inside the fender to receive the 3in down pipe from the turbo

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What's your plan for flex joints to go to the 1 into 4?
Why not carry the downpipe from the turbo directly out to the pipes and not use the 4 into 1?
 
Bebop said:
What's your plan for flex joints to go to the 1 into 4?
Why not carry the downpipe from the turbo directly out to the pipes and not use the 4 into 1?
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Clearance issues, and appearance issues. Taking the 3in straight down and 90 into the 4 in side pipes would certainly be way easier. And its plan B. However doing that will make them the lowest point on the car, even the oil pan. Car sits very low.

The sidepipes have flex joints where mounted to the frame. Im also using a bushing from barnes and some dom to make a vertical turbo brace (assist with downward weight). The exhaust headers to t4 flange will have a downward then upward sweep along the firewall (ish). My plan is to put a flex joint between the header and the turbo flange.




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Very excitedly planned on cutting and welding today. But instead had a shit day. Dropping everything. Stumbling. Trripping. Missing the hole. Etc.

So instead of getting anything project worthy done I organized and cleaned for six hours. Installed some under shelf drawers. Swept. Etc.

Tomorrow if all goes well I will cut the primary tubes and start trying to make a 4-1 collector in the fender well at the frame rail. I plan to try and use the pipe from each header to make my 90s.
 
Damn. Way too rusty.
I think I’m going to spend this week refreshing every night before welding up the tubes as I only get one shot. Haha

14g steel. 3/32 lanth. 1/6 filler. 35amp pedal

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Made some garage floor space. Boxed up the original engine and the gender neutral shifter for storage

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Spent an afternoon doing pie cuts on the band saw. Need a new blade now in order to do the other side

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grapehead said:
That gives me so much anxiety. You gonna be weldin for a week!
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We will see. Finished up the other side last night. Didnt like how driverside turned out, i think i positioned something wrong. Who knows. Gunna run with it tho, I think I can make it work fine

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Forgot how hard it is to get the titanium exhaust wrap fibers out of your skin!!

Turbo is in its final spot.

I messed up on this drivers down pipe. So my turbo placement is off by a couple inches. It’s gunna force me to mount the hydro boost upside down 😭



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ckruzer said:
Forgot how hard it is to get the titanium exhaust wrap fibers out of your skin!!

Turbo is in its final spot.

I messed up on this drivers down pipe. So my turbo placement is off by a couple inches. It’s gunna force me to mount the hydro boost upside down 😭



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Don’t matter what you do. It’s getting in your arms and upper body lol
 
Why not cut the pipe and rework it?
Hydroboost upside-down is bad for air pockets in it.
 
ckruzer said:
It’s gunna force me to mount the hydro boost upside down 😭
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Bebop said:
Why not cut the pipe and rework it?
Hydroboost upside-down is bad for air pockets in it.
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Good news, guys...if the picture is showing how it will be run, it's not upside down. Duramax HD and CUCV, for reference below. As far as air pockets, the best way to get every bit of air out is to unhook the return line (forward most fitting, driver's side...the brass 90, in your setup) and run a hose in to a drain pan, turn back and forth while hitting the pedal a handful of times, hook the return line back up, and it will push the little bit of air back down to reservoir. You'll be good to go!

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Bebop said:
Why not cut the pipe and rework it?
Hydroboost upside-down is bad for air pockets in it.
Click to expand...

Because it would have required alot of reworking
It was an eyeball endeavor
The hydroboost pump as seen is "technically" now right side up as they were in CUCV etc. Most all new hydroboosts are mounted "upside down" and are shipped that way from hydratech/POL etc. This is to give extra clearance from the accumulator for high rise valve covers etc. The pump can be flipped 180 no problem providing the mounting plate doesnt change the angle of the master cylinder. -quoting certified professionals (I.e. buggy racers, vendors, etc). Ill also be utilizing a check valve with my remote reservoir

EDIT
@Croatan_Kid we posted at the same time lol
Good idea on the bleeding. I have had the idea of using my AC vac to barney fife something - living in my head
 
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