Project 84 F150 Fishing Truck! AKA: "The Blue Horse!"

Ok so I still have this beast. I am having an issue and not sure where to start. the starter solenoid on the fender keeps sticking. I replaced it and then new one is doing it now. when it first did this it was the computer per a friend. this time I confirmed it was the new solenoid by unplugging the start wire and the starter was still turning over. A whack with a wrench and it stopped. Are the new parts that much junk or is something else likely going on?
 
Internally corroded batt cables?
High resistance, leading to low voltage, can cause a relay to stick.
 
Chris_M said:
Internally corroded batt cables?
High resistance, leading to low voltage, can cause a relay to stick.
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I can replace the + cable easy and cheap. I don't see how low voltage can cause a solenoid to stick.
 
ghost said:
I can replace the + cable easy and cheap. I don't see how low voltage can cause a solenoid to stick.
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I doubt it really the low voltage, that is more a symptom of the high resistance. I think the resistance equals heat, and that is what causes the issue. But it's just a wild assumption without testing anything. You could ohm out the cables or check the connections.
I've had starters hang up, replaced the aged shitty cables, clean or replace connections and all was well.
 
Chris_M said:
I doubt it really the low voltage, that is more a symptom of the high resistance. I think the resistance equals heat, and that is what causes the issue. But it's just a wild assumption without testing anything. You could ohm out the cables or check the connections.
I've had starters hang up, replaced the aged shitty cables, clean or replace connections and all was well.
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So what should the resistance be? I'll google how to test. I assume it depends on the size of the cable?
 
So it was saying .3 then dropped to .2.

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Ok so I ended up having to put a starter on this truck. I went to start it to cut the grass under it and it would not start. Really frustrated with this thing. It has been great until the last few times. I'm hoping to dig into it soon. About ready to sell it.
 
So this thing again. Starter tests good. I pulled the negative cables and got these. Looks like the old was one cable at one time. It had a ground to the frame. My plan is to run the ground to the frame then a ground wire from that spot to where the ground was attached to the starter.
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Finally installed a new ground with a ground wire from the battery to the fender. Checked to make sure there was a ground from the block to the firewall. Got her back running again. Drove it around the yard some Sunday. I need to sell this truck or put tires on it. 265/70R17's are not cheap. I think I'm going to sell it. I got this truck to leave at my parents property in Aiken for fishing and hunting. That plan changed obviously. So what is a stock 84 rusty NC long bed truck worth? 300 4 speed granny gear 4wd. Rust in cab corners. Floor repaired with riveted panels. Needs brakes looked at. Stops but I believe the vacuum booster is bad and needs a hood. Hing stuck and bent the left side. If you Ford experts were to put it on FB as is. what would you ask? My son and I have about $1800 in it right now.
 
CasterTroy said:
Has a 300!?!?!

@UTfball68 sez $12,500 all day long 😎
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If I thought I could find a sucker for that amount it would already be on FB. I was thinking of posting it around $4500. I guess I should add I have NC title from original owner. I never got around to transferring.
 
Threw it up on the book of faces to see if it would sell. It's not getting used for what I bought it for and there are other things I'd rather have then this. Yes I know I'm high. LOL!

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So I still have her. The brake pedal goes to the floor but does not return. I believe I hear a vacuum leak in the cab. I'm thinking the vacuum booster isn't working or has a massive leak. Any suggestions for an easy way to test? Don't have a vacuum gauge.
 
I’ve never had to diagnose a booster issue myself. But the pedal going to the floor and not returning is a typical symptom of a bad brake master. Sounds like fluid is bypassing the piston plunger. I get not wanting to just throw parts at it, but might be worth replacing the master.
 
Kickdeez said:
I’ve never had to diagnose a booster issue myself. But the pedal going to the floor and not returning is a typical symptom of a bad brake master. Sounds like fluid is bypassing the piston plunger. I get not wanting to just throw parts at it, but might be worth replacing the master.
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Definitely don't want to throw parts at it. I assumed since the brakes sort of worked and I heard what sounded like vacuum that it would be booster related. I've been doing some preliminary research trying to figure it out.
 
Google AI says:

"A hard brake pedal, increased stopping distance, or a hissing noise when braking can indicate a faulty brake booster. A brake booster uses vacuum to assist the driver in applying the brakes. If the booster fails, the pedal can feel stiff, requiring more force to stop the vehicle, or the vehicle may take longer to stop. A vacuum leak in the booster can also cause engine stumbling or stalling."

The booster helps you apply pressure to the brake master. If your booster is bad, generally you should have a hard time pressing down on the brakes. Think manual brakes. If your pedal goes to the floor, then there is an issue downstream of the booster. Check for brake fluid leaks somewhere. If no leaks, I would say your master is probably bad.
 
Kickdeez said:
Google AI says:

"A hard brake pedal, increased stopping distance, or a hissing noise when braking can indicate a faulty brake booster. A brake booster uses vacuum to assist the driver in applying the brakes. If the booster fails, the pedal can feel stiff, requiring more force to stop the vehicle, or the vehicle may take longer to stop. A vacuum leak in the booster can also cause engine stumbling or stalling."

The booster helps you apply pressure to the brake master. If your booster is bad, generally you should have a hard time pressing down on the brakes. Think manual brakes. If your pedal goes to the floor, then there is an issue downstream of the booster. Check for brake fluid leaks somewhere. If no leaks, I would say your master is probably bad.
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Ok I will check fluid but pretty sure it's full. the more I look the more it sounds like a master issue. I assumed booster with what sounded like vacuum.
 
I’ve seen a master leak fluid into the brake booster. Keep that in mind when looking for a leak if it’s not visible. I used a zip tie as a dip stick through the vacuum port.
 
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