01 Mounty on Tons!

BigClay said:
Welds are looking good! Looking forward to seeing this one. I always thought the yellow XJ with the App signatures would have been much better on a “mountaineer”
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Thanks! Yeah no kidding I thought the same.
 
upnover said:
question. Front truss... Are you going to close it in or leave it open?
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Was gonna leave open, thought closing it in would be overkill
 
marty79 said:
Was gonna leave open, thought closing it in would be overkill
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my thoughts on this.................

Many trusses have been designed by engineers.Then many guys with fab skills have copied them. I have never seen one left open. Imagine a home built with one wall missing.
 
upnover said:
my thoughts on this.................

Many trusses have been designed by engineers.Then many guys with fab skills have copied them. I have never seen one left open. Imagine a home built with one wall missing.
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Bruh lmbo I guess, I've never closed it in both sides but suppose now is just as good a time as any to do it
 
Typically if there is a single vertical structure (spine) in a truss it runs the center of the top plate/ axle tube as to provide structure in the center. The way yours is I would recommend boxing it in. Of course I’m neither an enjaneer or fabrikator....
 
skyhighZJ said:
Typically if there is a single vertical structure (spine) in a truss it runs the center of the top plate/ axle tube as to provide structure in the center. The way yours is I would recommend boxing it in. Of course I’m neither an enjaneer or fabrikator....
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Ten fo, makes sense I reckon
 
Box it. Think of it this way. If torque is applied in the wrong direction the flat plat could bend..... With the box it will resist that bending. Looks good so far.
 
I'd most definitely go full box truss on both axles. The rear is going to catch absolute hell on hill climbs, so it's best to go ahead and be ready. The front looks pretty cut 'n dry. Slide a piece of flat stock .25 plate in between the underside of the truss and the top of the axle tube and cook her in. You might could get by without welding to the 60 centersection. Maybe, maybe not.

The rear is what you really want to overkill. The weakest part of a Sterling is where the tubes press into the centersection. Tubes are prone to spinning even in bone stock SD trucks. One great thing about it, and I'm sure you've already noticed, the alloy used to cast the Sterling centersection is very weldable. Box the crap out of it. Think about how much hell it'll go through with a 5,000 lb mountain hooker jumping up and down on top of it all night screaming at the top of her lungs, taking selfies and texting em to her skinny friends in college.
 
XJsavage said:
. Think about how much hell it'll go through with a 5,000 lb mountain hooker jumping up and down on top of it all night screaming at the top of her lungs, taking selfies and texting em to her skinny friends in college.
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That was funny right there!! Will do
 
Only other suggestion would be to shorten the exposed thread on the heims. The more shank that is hanging out the end, to more chance that you will bend the shank of the heim.

I would shoot for half up and half down, but your plan should be fine also.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Only other suggestion would be to shorten the exposed thread on the heims. The more shank that is hanging out the end, to more chance that you will bend the shank of the heim.

I would shoot for half up and half down, but your plan should be fine also.
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I had em in a little but then I readjusted little further for my exact tire placement..again lol. It still has way more threads than my last build, heck than all my previous links ended up having. I'll make sure to better plan the front the first time...(stupid!)
 
More goodies just showed up...oooweiii. mounting so tars later. Stazworx is great deal on these HDPE inserts btw for anyone interested check them out. $303 shipped!
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Jody Treadway said:
A suggestion...keep that engine stock for reliability.
I'm very familiar with SBF performance. You ain't gonna get 100 HP from just a tune. You'll need heads, cam, intake, MAF, injectors, etc to do that.
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I've done enough research over last few months here and there to learn my expectations of "power increase" from a "tune" and such weren't realistic so you're right, it will be stock plus obviously exhaust upgrade and whatever the intake ends up being. I think she'll be around 235?! when done with exhaust and few other little upgrades which coming from the Jeep world of 186hp, I'll be plenty happy...just having the sound of the 302 will bring me joy since I'm a huge SBF fan!!
 
boy these went in the tires like butter!!! couldn't be happier with how easy these are vs the PVC inserts or the stock ones I had before. gotta get some silicone to seal up the rings and I'll have my wheels finished tomorrow!


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BigClay said:
moar pics
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unfortunately that's all I got so far...busy with regular work right now so not a whole lot of time on my rig....yet
 
@jodyou have a ranger/explorer frame right?..
Can I cut this brace out ...its in my way of upper links. Once I build the uppers, I will add in a new brace ...or not a good idea until new one built?
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@Jody Treadway for the previous picture or anyone else whose familiar with these frames...i'm on hold till I figure out if I can cut it or build around it first. Thanks
 
Don’t use silly cone. Use copious amounts of thick nasty axle grease to seat the o-rings for your rims. The o-ring sits in a groove on the mating surfaces of the rim. The grease keeps it in place while you torque the halves together and helps seal it up. I have built 100’s of those rims in my time.
Nasty old sticky axle grease ( the brownish tan shit that never really comes off your hands and stinks)
 
skyhighZJ said:
Don’t use silly cone. Use copious amounts of thick nasty axle grease to seat the o-rings for your rims. The o-ring sits in a groove on the mating surfaces of the rim. The grease keeps it in place while you torque the halves together and helps seal it up. I have built 100’s of those rims in my time.
Nasty old sticky axle grease ( the brownish tan shit that never really comes off your hands and stinks)
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well dang it, I could've done it tonight then lol. thanks for the tip:beer:
 
skyhighZJ said:
It’s still “tonight” go get after it. Got good enough at one point we could break down, clean, and remount a set of 4 Good Year Mt on HMMWV rims in about 2 hrs. Of course now they come on a pallet fully assembled just zip lug nuts on and off. No character building in that!!!
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well now I'm in with coffee and research....which is good so I don't go and rush into the uppers...need to figure them out....again dang it
 
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