01 Mounty on Tons!

marty79 said:
well now I'm in with coffee and research....which is good so I don't go and rush into the uppers...need to figure them out....again dang it
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this is the difference between the old me...ah just slap it all together and the now build me...plan it, think it, more plan it, try it...don't like it, plan some more (did I really just quote myself)
 
marty79 said:
@jodyou have a ranger/explorer frame right?..
Can I cut this brace out ...its in my way of upper links. Once I build the uppers, I will add in a new brace ...or not a good idea until new one built?
View attachment 344718
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Build new crossmember, incorporate body mounts if they're there, cut out old one.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Build new crossmember, incorporate body mounts if they're there, cut out old one.
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dang it was afraid you'd say that. well back to drawing board
 
Jody Treadway said:
What did you do? Maybe it's adequate
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haven't done anything yet...I'm wanting to cut that specific brace out...put my new upper links right in front of where that brace is to have my uppers be the same length as my lowers, 46", then build a new brace off the upper link mounts to tie the frame back together. to do it this way, which is the only way to make my upper links match my lowers, i need that brace gone first without adding in a new one in that same area.
 
marty79 said:
haven't done anything yet...I'm wanting to cut that specific brace out...put my new upper links right in front of where that brace is to have my uppers be the same length as my lowers, 46", then build a new brace off the upper link mounts to tie the frame back together. to do it this way, which is the only way to make my upper links match my lowers, i need that brace gone first without adding in a new one in that same area.
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You could always cut a slot and rebuild that brace in the shape of an arch inside the body.
 
BigSouth said:
You could always cut a slot and rebuild that brace in the shape of an arch inside the body.
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this build I'm trying to avoid doing any "hacking" on the body. wanting to do this as neat as possible. I have a few people wanting to see how this turns out without cutting up the body which could net me at least one more full build of exact platform if done well enough so yeah! otherwise I wouldn't be asking and have just cut away lol
 
Horrible drawing but this is what I'm trying for
20210427_065024.jpg
 
Everybody’s dilemma... sacrifices have to be made. Body or suspension. Something has to give.
 
the thick blue line is about 8" in front of that brace...then the upper link (little yellow line) comes right through that stupid brace which will clear the body perfect according to my measurements at full bump. then I take the little purple line and that's the new x-member tying the frame back together from link mount to link mount with a bend above it for driveshaft clearance. hope that made sense
 
plus in doing the uppers that way, not only do they come out even with lowers at 46", but they will be almost perfectly parallel at ride height which is golden!!. So I think I will weld in a temporary brace to hold the frame together, build my new setup after cutting out that factory brace then go and build the new permanent brace after that....this should work right?
 
BigSouth said:
Everybody’s dilemma... sacrifices have to be made. Body or suspension. Something has to give.
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yes true, but I think there's a way to do it here without sacrificing either and still making it look good
 
marty79 said:
plus in doing the uppers that way, not only do they come out even with lowers at 46", but they will be almost perfectly parallel at ride height which is golden!!. So I think I will weld in a temporary brace to hold the frame together, build my new setup after cutting out that factory brace then go and build the new permanent brace after that....this should work right?
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Cut it out, build links, rebuild crossmember around them at full bump.
 
skyhighZJ said:
It’s still “tonight” go get after it. Got good enough at one point we could break down, clean, and remount a set of 4 Good Year Mt on HMMWV rims in about 2 hrs. Of course now they come on a pallet fully assembled just zip lug nuts on and off. No character building in that!!!
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Hey, hey, HEY! Where's the character building in that? It's no fun if you don't nearly rip your own hands off when the ratchet strap(s) let go trying to get the run-flat back in the new tars. Kids these days....expect everything to come handed to them fully assembled on a pallet. :rolleyes::lol:
 
Scooter402 said:
you don't nearly rip your own hands off when the ratchet strap(s) let go trying to get the run-flat back in the new tars.
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That was scary as hell doing it on my last rig lol
 
I still run the magnesium ones on mine. Biggest complaint I have on my H1's is the bead gets mud and dirt in them too easy and they leak down because of it.
 
ghost said:
I still run the magnesium ones on mine. Biggest complaint I have on my H1's is the bead gets mud and dirt in them too easy and they leak down because of it.
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On this note, would putting a good thick bead of silicone or glue on the outside bead help with this or no
 
Something else to keep in mind on the trusses - gotta either seal them up most all the way, or have vents in the bottom to let water/mud/etc out. Water is easy, but a hole for water will quickly get clogged with dirt and rocks, so they need to be ~1.5" or bigger. If you make plates for the other side, cut some fish mouths in the bottom edge.
 
shawn said:
Something else to keep in mind on the trusses - gotta either seal them up most all the way, or have vents in the bottom to let water/mud/etc out. Water is easy, but a hole for water will quickly get clogged with dirt and rocks, so they need to be ~1.5" or bigger. If you make plates for the other side, cut some fish mouths in the bottom edge.
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Good point..I miss the little details
 
marty79 said:
On this note, would putting a good thick bead of silicone or glue on the outside bead help with this or no
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Never tried it. I just break the offending one down once or twice a year and clean them. It's mainly an issue in the South I believe. IDK how other bead locks do with this issue.
 
marty79 said:
this build I'm trying to avoid doing any "hacking" on the body. wanting to do this as neat as possible. I have a few people wanting to see how this turns out without cutting up the body which could net me at least one more full build of exact platform if done well enough so yeah! otherwise I wouldn't be asking and have just cut away lol
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It won't be hacking if it looks good. Is it beneath the rear seats or in cargo area? Figure out how to use it to your advantage...
 
ramjo said:
It won't be hacking if it looks good. Is it beneath the rear seats or in cargo area? Figure out how to use it to your advantage...
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Seats. Cargo area will be shock towers. But I got it figured out thanks to Jody's advice
 
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