05 TJ LS swap

marty79 said:
Originally was wanting carb v8 swap for simplicity, less parts/sensors to worry about but then he decided to put up the budget for LS and rear end swap. Now you got me intrigued on a carbed LS ...what's the benefits besides simplicity if any?
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None. That’s what stupid people do.

Perhaps, in a full blown drag car, or old hod rod where you’re going for the retro look I can justify it. But otherwise EFI hands down. And I’d wager that anything someone argued a carb is better for, Holley EFI or stock ECU and HP Tuners can do it better and easier.
 
77GreenMachine said:
None. That’s what stupid people do.

Perhaps, in a full blown drag car, or old hod rod where you’re going for the retro look I can justify it. But otherwise EFI hands down. And I’d wager that anything someone argued a carb is better for, Holley EFI or stock ECU and HP Tuners can do it better and easier.
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That's what I thought too
 
Best way to get these suckers out, especially the one broke flush to head
20210509_145638.jpg
 
77GreenMachine said:
None. That’s what stupid people do.

Perhaps, in a full blown drag car, or old hod rod where you’re going for the retro look I can justify it. But otherwise EFI hands down. And I’d wager that anything someone argued a carb is better for, Holley EFI or stock ECU and HP Tuners can do it better and easier.
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This.
Zero performance benefit outside of full on drag fuel dumping.

But ...there are questions that will have to be answered with this swap that I don't think have yet been considered.
 
marty79 said:
Originally was wanting carb v8 swap for simplicity, less parts/sensors to worry about but then he decided to put up the budget for LS and rear end swap. Now you got me intrigued on a carbed LS ...what's the benefits besides simplicity if any?
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Zero benefits in any application. Even drag racing or "restomod". There are plenty of TPI systems to make it look like a carb without the downfalls and when it comes to Drag racing, a well tuned EFI on a SBE has been proven to be the winning combo, even at 1000+hp.
 
Bebop said:
Remove the manifold and weld a nut to all the broken bolts.
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Yeah I do but the flush broke one on aluminum head worries me
 
marty79 said:
I'm going with the Mishimoto Radiator, way better reviews than Griffin for the same price!
On the electric fan, there are slim models that allow push or pull, could be mounted in front of radiator inside grill for more clearance, or vise a versa??? anyone have any opposing notes on this, thanks
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Do a puller. The slimmer the shittier. Get the biggest one you can fit.
 
Bebop said:
Very common for them to break on an LS. I don’t even count the number of bolts I had to remove like that.
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Thanks buddy
 
So just a few things that'll help ya along:

If the motor has oil in it now, leave it in. If you drain the oil and let it sit dry it'll cause the pump to lose prime. But.... If the mileage on it is over 150k, you may wanna replace the pump anyways. Also, while you're at it go ahead and replace both front and rear main seals. It makes it a lot easier to buy the whole cover plates with the seals already pressed in too. Do the oil pan gasket at the same time you do the others and it'll be less likely to leak. Figure out where you want to get your oil pressure and coolant temperature readings from. There's several really convenient kits for that now. Figure out if you want to go with return style or return less. Both work well.
Get ready to spend some money.
 
Jody Treadway said:
If that concerns you so much, you're gonna have a long road ahead on this build.
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haha yessir I know. I've always gotten nervous when welding broken studs out of aluminum heads...I've done it more than I care to but still don't like doing it.
XJsavage said:
Get ready to spend some money.
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Customer was made WELL aware of this when he said to go with the LS rather than older carbed v8 so I'm not worried. I've actually taken the advise of some and decided screw making mounts and stuff, even trans crossmember I'm ordering a universal kit from Summit for the 4L60e to simplify things. Radiator/hoses and fan and switch all coming from Mishimoto just to keep it from one place. Motor mount kit from Summit plus crossmember. I'm trying to finish up the parts list for Tuesday when he comes by to write me check for the remainder of parts so still got more to figure up.
 
So DO the factory manifolds work on the TJ or not? Either I've read too much and lost focus or I think I've read that they do but they're super tight fit as someone mentioned?!!? But I also believe I've read that you have to get shorty headers that hug the block more? That's the last "main" component to get motor in when I start. Thanks
 
XJsavage said:
If the mileage on it is over 150k, you may wanna replace the pump anyways. Also, while you're at it go ahead and replace both front and rear main seals. It makes it a lot easier to buy the whole cover plates with the seals already pressed in too. Do the oil pan gasket at the same time you do the others and it'll be less likely to leak.
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Well dang, that's surprising. Wasn't planning on this since the mileage is only 172K and the same 5.3 in my suburban has 334k original no leaks or nothing so I was under the assumption these earlier 5.3s were the better more reliable design to not have to service them as "early" for preventative maintenance. Having that said, I also highly understand doing things now for ease of installation so another thing to discuss with him.
 
rockcity said:
Why does welding studs on aluminum heads worry you? Those are the easiest to remove.
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Only when they're flush or recessed a little otherwise no big deal
 
marty79 said:
haha yessir I know. I've always gotten nervous when welding broken studs out of aluminum heads...I've done it more than I care to but still don't like doing it.

Customer was made WELL aware of this when he said to go with the LS rather than older carbed v8 so I'm not worried. I've actually taken the advise of some and decided screw making mounts and stuff, even trans crossmember I'm ordering a universal kit from Summit for the 4L60e to simplify things. Radiator/hoses and fan and switch all coming from Mishimoto just to keep it from one place. Motor mount kit from Summit plus crossmember. I'm trying to finish up the parts list for Tuesday when he comes by to write me check for the remainder of parts so still got more to figure up.
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I hope it works out well for you. In my experience the little parts cost as much as the big ones. Between senders and sensors, and getting the ecm tuned and re working the harness. And figuring out where you are going to pull vss, and then o2 feedback.... then what are you planning for tcase etc...drive by cable or wire...
 
Ron said:
I hope it works out well for you. In my experience the little parts cost as much as the big ones. Between senders and sensors, and getting the ecm tuned and re working the harness. And figuring out where you are going to pull vss, and then o2 feedback.... then what are you planning for tcase etc...drive by cable or wire...
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I'm using the whole chevy platform, throttle cable setup. Yeah the little things are the annoying parts but I've been wanting to do this for a while and I know I can, just might be a little slower the first time
 
marty79 said:
So DO the factory manifolds work on the TJ or not? Either I've read too much and lost focus or I think I've read that they do but they're super tight fit as someone mentioned?!!? But I also believe I've read that you have to get shorty headers that hug the block more? That's the last "main" component to get motor in when I start. Thanks
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Think a few steps ahead when planning for headers and where they dump out at. There are a LOT of Ls header options from stock to aftermarket to make things land where you need them to and you may need to mix and match to get the exhaust routed in the right places to help things like the driveshaft clear without interference at full compression. I ran into this on my CYJ and just went with what was “recommended” but where all of my stuff landed they didn’t work. FWIW, 2010-2015 Camaro SS stock manifolds and Shorty headers dump out to the back of the engine and allow for a nice straight shot down and under the bell housing to tie into the non driveshaft side of the engine on a 5.3/4L60 combo.
 
marty79 said:
I'm using the whole chevy platform, throttle cable setup. Yeah the little things are the annoying parts but I've been wanting to do this for a while and I know I can, just might be a little slower the first time
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Not saying you can't do it. I'm sure you will. I'm just cautioning it will cost more than you seem to think based on comments
 
StretchASU said:
FWIW, 2010-2015 Camaro SS stock manifolds and Shorty headers dump out to the back of the engine and allow for a nice straight shot down and under the bell housing to tie into the non driveshaft side of the engine on a 5.3/4L60 combo.
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Good info thank you for the heads up
 
Ron said:
Not saying you can't do it. I'm sure you will. I'm just cautioning it will cost more than you seem to think based on comments
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Oh its definitely way out of my price lmbo but I'm not buying haha
 
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