05 TJ LS swap

Ok so it's a 246. So what's easier/ cheaper redo the 231 to work or go with the manual 241 as @Croatan_Kid said. Thanks guys
 
Ok so it's a 246. So what's easier/ cheaper redo the 231 to work or go with the manual 241 as @Croatan_Kid said. Thanks guys

231 and 241 are both manual, they end in 1. However, the 241 will literally bolt directly to a 4L60E and came from a full sized truck/SUV and is stronger. They're stupid common and fairly stout. Equivalent, but probably a hair better, than an NP208. I think I have 80 bucks for the last one I bought for my 99 Silverado. It's held up to a stout 6.0 with a 5 speed, tons, and 37s for...oh...9 years now?

You should. But you don't need one.
Plenty of rigs driving around without one.

Just like the MAF.

Also true, but there is zero benefit to running a speed density tune vs a MAF tune unless you have an absolute FAWK ton of boost that surpasses what the MAF can read. He'd also have to change even more wiring and add a separate IAT sensor for it to run properly. PLUS, that requires more credits to tune with HP Tuners.
 
231 and 241 are both manual, they end in 1. However, the 241 will literally bolt directly to a 4L60E and came from a full sized truck/SUV and is stronger. They're stupid common and fairly stout. Equivalent, but probably a hair better, than an NP208. I think I have 80 bucks for the last one I bought for my 99 Silverado. It's held up to a stout 6.0 with a 5 speed, tons, and 37s for...oh...9 years now?



Also true, but there is zero benefit to running a speed density tune vs a MAF tune unless you have an absolute FAWK ton of boost that surpasses what the MAF can read. He'd also have to change even more wiring and add a separate IAT sensor for it to run properly. PLUS, that requires more credits to tune with HP Tuners.

Main reason to run speed density would be the room for a MAF, space is a premium under the hood of a TJ. Also why would you need more credits? Should only need 2 to do everything needed. Could you not just put the MAF in a fail state like you would when tuning the VE tables? Temp sensor is only two wires to break out so not terrible considering the amount of other wiring he's going to need to clean up all the extra junk that needs to be deleted.
 
Nothing at all to add besides I have a 231C in the shop that is looking for a new home and it is cheap.
 
Nothing at all to add besides I have a 231C in the shop that is looking for a new home and it is cheap.
Implying that it'll work for this setup?
 
Main reason to run speed density would be the room for a MAF, space is a premium under the hood of a TJ. Also why would you need more credits? Should only need 2 to do everything needed. Could you not just put the MAF in a fail state like you would when tuning the VE tables? Temp sensor is only two wires to break out so not terrible considering the amount of other wiring he's going to need to clean up all the extra junk that needs to be deleted.
Yes lots of wiring. If you wouldn't mind, looks like I'll be hiring you to do the computer work.
 
Enjoy the read. I tried to list part numbers and prices of everything I used.


Please don't add it all up. I haven't brought myself to do that yet :laughing:
 
Enjoy the read. I tried to list part numbers and prices of everything I used.


Please don't add it all up. I haven't brought myself to do that yet :laughing:
Sweet I will tonight thanks
 
ok before I go ordering parts, especially radiator question: why do the radiators for the TJ LS swap come with inlet and outlets offset when they should both be on the passenger side since both outlets of water pump are on that side? Is this one of those you pick what you want to run? I see photos of people doing both now that I've searched and seems simpler to keep both on pass side...or am I missing something. Thanks
 
ok before I go ordering parts, especially radiator question: why do the radiators for the TJ LS swap come with inlet and outlets offset when they should both be on the passenger side since both outlets of water pump are on that side? Is this one of those you pick what you want to run? I see photos of people doing both now that I've searched and seems simpler to keep both on pass side...or am I missing something. Thanks
LS radiator should have both hoses on passenger side. I used the Superior.
 
LS radiator should have both hoses on passenger side. I used the Superior.
exactly what I keep coming up with but Mishimoto and these other companies have them opposite but yet claim they're specifically for the TJ swap WTH. well back to searching, thanks for clarifying that for me!! cheers
 
exactly what I keep coming up with but Mishimoto and these other companies have them opposite but yet claim they're specifically for the TJ swap WTH. well back to searching, thanks for clarifying that for me!! cheers
I wonder how many of those are "V8 swap radiators" meaning gen 1 small block, mislabeled as LS swap.
 
I wonder how many of those are "V8 swap radiators" meaning gen 1 small block, mislabeled as LS swap.
good point, not sure since this is my first v8 jeep swap...won't be my last lol. Have another one lined up so I better get this right hehe
 
Enjoy the read. I tried to list part numbers and prices of everything I used.


Please don't add it all up. I haven't brought myself to do that yet :laughing:
by chance have a link or part number to the specific radiator you got for $425 with fan/shroud and all. That's a heck of a deal reading through your build!! I'm enjoying it, thanks. (If not no biggie, I'll do some hunting around once I'm done reading all through your 15 pages lol) gonna be a long night
 
@Croatan_Kid no VSS needed if you don’t have electronic transmission.

You can do it without it, but it certainly works better with it. In his case, he's going to need it. It's one of the more simplistic parts of this entire swap.

Right. If you code it as a manual.

It doesn't drive nearly as well as you'd think it would with a manual in an SD tune.

Main reason to run speed density would be the room for a MAF, space is a premium under the hood of a TJ. Also why would you need more credits? Should only need 2 to do everything needed. Could you not just put the MAF in a fail state like you would when tuning the VE tables? Temp sensor is only two wires to break out so not terrible considering the amount of other wiring he's going to need to clean up all the extra junk that needs to be deleted.

You're right. 1 bar MAP isn't any more, but 2 bar and 3 bar MAP require more credits. I did an 03 Silverado SS with a ProCharger on 20lbs once. It out flowed the MAF and I had no choice. The MAF is only 2" long though and makes driveability much better in low and part throttle. Especially with a DBC throttle body vs a DBW. I can't think of an underhood setup where I couldn't have fit a MAF with two more hose clamps :popcorn: if you put the air filter where it won't suck up HOT air and pull timing, then you can fit a MAF.
 
LS radiator should have both hoses on passenger side. I used the Superior.

It doesn't HAVE to be. The stock truck/SUV setup has the lower on the passenger's side and the upper goes to the driver's side. I guess it just depends on what hoses you can get to fit vs what radiators they offer for the swap. As long as it cools fine, it doesn't much matter.
 
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@marty79 I'm not sure how well that AC compressor in the stock bracket is going to fit vs the TJ frame. That's the one thing I'm not sure of. I'm no Jeep guy, but there are plenty of people that offer different belt drive setups if need be. It's just more doll hairs!
 
@marty79 I'm not sure how well that AC compressor in the stock bracket is going to fit vs the TJ frame. That's the one thing I'm not sure of. I'm no Jeep guy, but there are plenty of people that offer different belt drive setups if need be. It's just more doll hairs!
yeah I just finished page 8 of the build I'm reading and well, the factory a/c doesn't seem to fit according to his efforts so that's gonna have to change too...daiuuum this is getting crazy lol. Customer asked me today if I started on anything...I said I'm about 20hrs into researching parts and advise and about 30more hours at least to go before I'm ready for any actual labor LMBO. But then I told him once everything gets figured out, planned, proper parts bought/come in, and a good drawn out plan of action is made the "labor" or "swap" will actually go pretty quick.
 
It's one of the more simplistic parts of this entire swap.
shoot getting the motor in is the only simple part after everything I'm learning about this swap...and it just keeps getting better haha. Dam reading comprehension weakness, thank goodness people put up pictures of a lot of this progress in their build that's where I learn the most, visual. Freaking 5 years of ESL and still don't comprehend sh*t LMBO
 
@LBarr2002 that was a awesome build read, just finished. I got lost on some of the stuff but great build, great work and lots of useful information!! You saved me a ton of headache on the A/C compressor now knowing don't even bother leaving the factory GM one on the motor when mocking up the install.
 
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