2002 2500HD - Solid Axle Tow Rig

wasn’t actually confused on where they are physically but how far down they sit... Sometimes the intercooler and hefty radiators on TD trucks hang low which prevents clean looking winch bumpers. What you’re usually left with is the ones that stick out and look like a bad underbite.. Tubes can be plated out to look more “finished” but anyways, just trying to throw some ideas out there for your cost dilemma.


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Roger. They're pretty deep/tall, but I don't think they're any lower than the middle of the chrome on the front bumper. They're also tucked back kinda far and not really in the way of the front bumper. There's several inches of free room even behind the stock front bumper and you could pretty easily sneak a winch in a fairly low profile package between the frame rails and slightly under the drop down in the grille. I do like a little bit of a flat top on a winch bumper so you've got something to stand on when you need to work under the hood. The stock Silverado bumpers kill my knees, so I usually use a truck step over the front tires and go at it from the side. :D
 
I've been in sort of a dry spell...just driving this thing every day and no new parts lately. I've been really yearning over a new turbo, a transmission build, amd transfer case swap lately though...you know, the big money items.

I do need to fix the fuel pickup tube or just change the sending unit all together. Oh...and motor mounts. I'm going to put some stock ones back in it so it won't transfer as much vibration. They'll get a bolt run through them though, so no worry of tearing the driver's side mount in half.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I've been in sort of a dry spell....
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Well, you've already bought yourself a house. Have a kid next, then you'll really know what the dry spells are all about! :lol: Oh wait, what were we talking about?
 
Well...I didn't really have anything to do today and I felt like messing with something automotive related, so I leveled my mirrors. I wish I had done it years ago! I can see soooo much more around the truck and the mirrors will actually drain when I was the truck now. Oh, and it looks much better.

I used 3 washers on each side behind the top bolts. I also put two washers behind the springs to keep everything tightened up. It'll be painfully obvious where you have to trim the cover piece.

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I also messed with the MAP sensor on a hunch. I unplugged it and drove around for a little while. No more black smokey haze! So, I'll probably be ordering a new MAP sensor...might even change the barometric pressure sensor too, just for shits and giggles.
 
I've been wanting to do an NP273 swap for a while now, but the cost had me hemmed up. So, I started looking at what really needs to be done to make it work and it's really not that difficult. Instead of 1100 bucks from Transfer Case Express, plus shipping and my old NP263XHD as a core...I've figured I can do it myself for just under 700 bucks while keeping my 263. I could likely sell the old case and make it a wash, aside from the driveshafts.

I'll need the following:

- Ford NP273 $100
- Rebuild kit $80
- Sprockets/chain $165
- Dodge 29 spline input $85
- 40 tooth tone ring $20
- Bung for VSS M22x1.5 $10
- Kodiak shift cam 89059210 $45
- Clocking ring $120
- Driveshafts

I found a guy up in Greenville selling a case for cheap that needs a rebuild. Perfect candidate for my project. I'll rebuild it with a new chain, sprockets, bearings, and seals. While it's apart, swap in the 29 spline input and change the shift cam out for one from a Kodiak so it shifts properly. Then take the output housing and drill a hole for a VSS bung. I'll probably have to do some lathe work on whichever reluctor wheel I get, but I'll either make it a slip fit with set screws or I'll cut it in half and clamp it on the output shaft. The clocking ring is to correct the bolt pattern and let the transfer case clear the ABS module on the frame.

Driveshafts will likely start like as factory Super Duty parts. The front one will just be rebuilt and shortened a little. The rear one will just lend me the bolt on flange at the transfer case and the rest will probably just come from the driveshaft makers.
 
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Isn’t the 273 electronic shift controlled and the 271 is mechanical/lever shift?


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Yep, exactly. It seems to be a New Process/New Venture thing with newer chain drive cases...if the last number is a 1, it's manual shift and if the last number is a 3, it's electric shift.

NP231/NP233
NP241/NP243
NP261/NP263 HD or XHD
NP271/NP273

Well, you get the idea. I never really made that connection until just now, actually...
 
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Ok gotcha. So are you trying to adapt the solenoid controlled TC to your rig or are you going to make it lever/mechanically actuated?


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It'll stay electronically shifted. That's the easiest part of the entire ordeal. Just swap the encoder motor from my current transfer case to the new one. Two of the bolts line up...I may or may not drill/tap the third one. We'll see.
 
I picked up the transfer case tonight. It definitely stretched the chain. I can hold the rear output while spinning the front and feel the chain jumping over the sprockets. I'll see how bad the internals look and determine if I want or need to replace everything else. Now the fun can begin.

Also, these cases are freaking huge!

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Croatan_Kid said:
Yep, exactly. It seems to be a New Process/New Venture thing with newer chain drive cases...if the last number is a 1, it's manual shift and if the last number is a 3, it's electric shift.

NP231/NP233
NP241/NP243
NP261/NP263 HD or XHD
NP271/NP273

Well, you get the idea. I never really made that connection until just now, actually...
Click to expand...

No shit. I never made that connection either! But why? o_O
Good stuff. :beer:
 
I'm wondering if it was actually intentional or if it just happened and someone decided to go with it. Or.....It's some kind of conspiracy!

I stood the transfer case up on its side (front output upright) and I could turn the front while holding the rear output. It sounded/felt like the chain jumping over the sprocket teeth. Easy enough...it's a shame the guy replaced it over 160 bucks worth of parts, but it worked out for me!
 
Fixed front output so I can have a real front driveshaft, mostly. It's way beefier too, so that's a plus.
 
First number is 1 for single speed or 2 for two speed (high and low). Second number is the strength on a scale of 1-7. Third number is how its shifted, 1 for manual, 3 for electric, 6 is auto like the np246. Then there is heavy duty HD and extra heavy duty XHD.

I was going to do a 271 swap in my single cab 03 but theres not enough room to relocate the ABS module with the narrow cab and chassis frame. Take pictures of the whole process plz.
 
You know I will...

There's the rebuild, tail housing machine work, and then mounting it up. My plan is to move the ABS module up on the frame without ever taking any of the brake lines loose. Apparently that's really all it needs to clear it. We'll definitely see though.

For anyone that's curious, here's an NP263XHD next to an NP273.

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a_kelley said:
The last digit also indicates if it is a AWD case or not.. there is a list I found that details it all. For example, 249 is a 2(speed), 4(strength), 9(differentiated manual shift)

Ahh.. I won't copy it because of length. New Process Transfer Cases Decoded - S-10 Forum
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Too bad the 200/202/203/205/208 don't fall anywhere in that mix, or is it just after the NVG merge?
 
Probably after the merge.
 
I made a call to Transfer Case Express this afternoon to ask a few things about this project. I was pretty much on point with what I need to do and they even said they would sell me a modified tail shaft housing and tone ring...for 450 bucks. They must not really want to sell it to me.

Also, the price for the fully assembled 273 conversion went up to 1400 plus 150 for shipping both ways and a core. The 263XHD or the 273 could be used for that, but I can't bring myself to pay that much for a transfer case.
 
Yeah man! I’m anxious for you to get it done yourself to see what it all entails. There’s not a lot of tech on 271-273 cases despite being a very strong case.


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I'll probably do the full write up on it separate from this thread and just post the link to it. That way it'll be easier to find with a Google search.

Once I get it done and working like it should, I figure I might have a few people that want one or maybe just need the tone ring and modded tail housing....I can damn sure do it cheaper than what I was quoted!
 
I finally had enough with the smoky/hazy tunes from RidgeRunner and his refusal to do anything about it. So, I gave StarLite a holler. He assured me that if it's not just right the first time that he can, and will, get me taken care of and usually only take a few hours, but two days at the very longest. That sure beats the hell out of 5 or more weeks. I just got the email with the new tunes and I'm definitely anxious to try them out in the day time!

Let's see how this goes...
 
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