3DB Krawler

Yes, looking slick buddy.

Matt
 
Going to bump this up. Just dropped this off with the capable hands of Matt Cuttler. Being I have my hands full with dirt late model racing I just can't find the time to make it a full roller. Matt is an awesome fabricator with similar taste as mine so I am truly confident that he will make this even more bad ass than I had hoped for.
 
Let the madness begin...

Shooting for a low COG, fast looking build.

Quick initial specs, which could change.

115 wb
20"ish belly at trail pressure
+6" uptravel

ff3978527ed0e49bb29c88432d93c867.jpg



17d8702a27dd4d6080e6423f4bdae284.jpg



Big thanks to David for the confidence with creative freedom. This is going to be fun.

Matt

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
A few random facts. I now wheel the original 3D crawler that David built.
The green yj tub and frame in this build came from me. It was going to be the platform for Badass II until my life changed a bit.
I'll bet my damn 401k that 2 things are are gonna happen,
@mcutler is gonna build him a killer platform,
@3DCrawler is gonna put a screaming ass motor in it and wheel the snot out of it.
Now. The selfish side of me comes out.
I miss wheeling with both of ya'll! Git-r-done!
'Dre out...
 
Two full days (but only about 8 hours of actual labor)....

Lots of brainstorming, cigarettes, Pepsi, mountain dew, pbj's and ramen noodles, pulling tape, plumb bobs, drawing, sketching, more brainstorming, leveling, raising, lowering, leveling again, stiff legging, stoking the woodstove, another cigarette, brainstorm...ehh, you get the picture....


Anywho, it has achieved its new full bump. Any further would require channeling the motobilt rear back half, and pizza cutting or channeling and plating the front frame ahead of the motor mounts.

New bump position with 0 psi in tires: (trusses are welded to stanchions and the frame- for repeatability of correct height through any suspension action. But they are accessible to break free easily, and clear of area for bump stop can mounting).

16.25 belly
1/4 clearance on metal contact at all 4 corners
Planning for 6+" up travel for a rough net belly height of 22.5"
Channeled the bed and floor for upper link clearance
Removed center grill support to allow for truss clearance
Still need to adjust the spread on the front upper links for a little more motor clearance


4dbbcc3241b8c3b2bec1bc1029969b83.jpg



5d5d0b26419814508ed452b089f126a8.jpg



aec3da910b6a2b76c3f123a1db45121d.jpg



78975ef4bf085d6d4704e298b417ec05.jpg



d1ceff6d4ba45f55c59aac2172357c7e.jpg



ef2b1d5789a8f6fb589b6783cebd40e7.jpg



5cc2ac1e5e734190a7c80a93296e51bf.jpg


Matt




Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
Matt, all your thought process really pans out. For having it two days, you really have got a lot done. much figured out, so with plans in head and on paper, I figure it's gonna happen at a much faster pace than it would for most. I will siit back and drool

And like Paul said, we do miss you both out on the trails!
 
77GreenMachine said:
Sub’d

I’d say this build is in excellent hands.
Click to expand...

Thank you

upnover said:
Matt, all your thought process really pans out. For having it two days, you really have got a lot done. much figured out, so with plans in head and on paper, I figure it's gonna happen at a much faster pace than it would for most. I will siit back and drool

And like Paul said, we do miss you both out on the trails!
Click to expand...

Thank you chip.

It helps that my brain is still fresh from the Manche. I feel like I'm really good at seeing what happens down the line from step 3 to step 8,421, so that I'm not disappointed at some cluster fuck that causes some major comprises later.... liked I said, I think...

Wheeling again soon btw...


Crawler Nut said:
Another Cutler creation going on. Will be watching the magic unfold. Awesome work as always.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dustin.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
Super____ Sunday whaat? Screw that noise.... super shop day...



df4dba78b469f999a2ca39704542af30.jpg



9af1f0264e4a9d071590d1dafc11b9dc.jpg




054f0d72b6ce2eb34764ad3a70625ed1.jpg



e70cc5aa4ae5c476940047279e02f803.jpg



f8aae974acb2189e2981a3ee61d1f3bc.jpg



7963e3399548f88b4c2a7298e0b2883a.jpg



2f9eadcc1cb5bf16a556fb79fcc4d3c5.jpg



.... Going back out to shop shortly, kids on 3 hour delay, so I'm working 3rd shift to make up for missed time in the a.m.


Matt

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
I'm really excited to see you start using tig more on your builds. Ive been working on my skills for about 2 years now and I am curious to hear what different settings, etc are working for you?
 
91samurai said:
I'm really excited to see you start using tig more on your builds. Ive been working on my skills for about 2 years now and I am curious to hear what different settings, etc are working for you?
Click to expand...
Thanks. I really love welding period. But tig is super satisfying when you get it right, and so much cleaner than mig. (I still love mig too). Tig doesn't take that much longer for me, because I've been prepping the same way for mig welds for some time.

For tig, I have the blue machine for tig welding for dummies, lol. Diversion 160-65, I forget... I typically set the heat about 20% higher than the dial calls for, and modulate the pedal as needed. For #8 ceramic gas saver cups about 10-15 cfm, for the furick fupa 12, about 25-30cfm.

I'll upgrade to a more appropriate machine later, but truthfully, for the thicknesses I work on, and pretty much any automotive application, this machine is capable of everything I need. Especially on steel, I would like to be able to fine tune a bit more on aluminum.



Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
mcutler said:
Thanks. I really love welding period. But tig is super satisfying when you get it right, and so much cleaner than mig. (I still love mig too). Tig doesn't take that much longer for me, because I've been prepping the same way for mig welds for some time.

For tig, I have the blue machine for tig welding for dummies, lol. Diversion 160-65, I forget... I typically set the heat about 20% higher than the dial calls for, and modulate the pedal as needed. For #8 ceramic gas saver cups about 10-15 cfm, for the furick fupa 12, about 25-30cfm.

I'll upgrade to a more appropriate machine later, but truthfully, for the thicknesses I work on, and pretty much any automotive application, this machine is capable of everything I need. Especially on steel, I would like to be able to fine tune a bit more on aluminum.



Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I feel the same way about welding and completely understand the thing about tig being satisfying. Do you ever have any trouble fitting a big cup in tight tube joints? I currently use a #8 gas lens for every thing.
 
91samurai said:
I feel the same way about welding and completely understand the thing about tig being satisfying. Do you ever have any trouble fitting a big cup in tight tube joints? I currently use a #8 gas lens for every thing.
Click to expand...

That's where the mfurick fupa pyrex cups shine. You can stick the tungsten out an inch or more to get in those deep tube nodes, and still keep sufficient gas coverage. They cost more, and use twice the argon, but quality of finished product in those extreme circumstances is tits.

I can't tell a huge difference between the fupa and a #8 gas on regular bench welding lap, butt, or filets. But around tube nodes, you can't beat em.

He has some new ceramic cups out now (along with a few other manufacturers, but he's a local guy so I buy from him, mooresville) that are big mouth with the good diffusers, that are more durable than the pyrex. I intend to grab some soon.


You don't need a gas lens on aluminum. A straight #5,6,7 is more than sufficient, and saves some gas.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
^^^This is how I know I'll never TIG weld. I tried following along with what was being said, but Google let me down. I definitely have respect for those that learn this from their home and even more for those that OWN it. I'm a lazy MIG welder and a grinder is still very much my friend.
 
mcutler said:
That's where the mfurick fupa pyrex cups shine. You can stick the tungsten out an inch or more to get in those deep tube nodes, and still keep sufficient gas coverage. They cost more, and use twice the argon, but quality of finished product in those extreme circumstances is tits.

I can't tell a huge difference between the fupa and a #8 gas on regular bench welding lap, butt, or filets. But around tube nodes, you can't beat em.

He has some new ceramic cups out now (along with a few other manufacturers, but he's a local guy so I buy from him, mooresville) that are big mouth with the good diffusers, that are more durable than the pyrex. I intend to grab some soon.


You don't need a gas lens on aluminum. A straight #5,6,7 is more than sufficient, and saves some gas.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Good info Matt, the Fupa also lights up the work area in a unique way. To off set some cost the monster gas lenses in ceramic will allow the same amount of stick out. The Furick web sight does a very good job explaining its draw backs. They shine on very atmosphere, heat sensitive parts and thin applications. The shield gas flows out and really blankets the component. I have a small theory in my head that because of the diffused gas is so slowed down by the cup much less contaminants can be pulled into the gas field through a siphon effect.....which most find obvious. My part is this blanket also is so slow moving at very small amperage settings you get absolutely no cooling effect from the introduced flow. It seems really insignificant but every setting I use; and my students have observed, is much less then with a standard cup or collet body. For the alloys it is designed for this is premium. Cause everybody wants that color and as small of a HAZ as possible.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Good info Matt, the Fupa also lights up the work area in a unique way. To off set some cost the monster gas lenses in ceramic will allow the same amount of stick out. The Furick web sight does a very good job explaining its draw backs. They shine on very atmosphere, heat sensitive parts and thin applications. The shield gas flows out and really blankets the component. I have a small theory in my head that because of the diffused gas is so slowed down by the cup much less contaminants can be pulled into the gas field through a siphon effect.....which most find obvious. My part is this blanket also is so slow moving at very small amperage settings you get absolutely no cooling effect from the introduced flow. It seems really insignificant but every setting I use; and my students have observed, is much less then with a standard cup or collet body. For the alloys it is designed for this is premium. Cause everybody wants that color and as small of a HAZ as possible.
Click to expand...
Andrew, you would really enjoy sitting down and talking shop with Michael Furick. He reminded me of you, during that tig seminar this summer. Dude is a student and a master of the process, at the same time. He has really done the research and tested the applications for motorsports.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
Wow. You welding pros blow my mind. I follow @XJsavage on Facebook, it’s clear he as well as y’all truly love welding and find it almost therapeutic.

My limited MIG knowledge leaves me clueless to what the heck y’all are talking about.

In my knowledge a “Fupa” is very different and has nothing to do with welding and is not desirable at all...o_O
 
Back
Top