6.0 tunes

1-tonmudder

1-tonmudder

Doin my part to stir the pot.
Joined
Apr 17, 2005
Location
Greeneville TN
Picked up a new (to me) 06 F-350 CC w the 6.0 today for tow and family haulin duty's.Truck only has 85K and is all stock,Im talking full exhaust w converter,egr system.never been tuned or tinkered with.Lookin to put a tuner of some sort on the truck and,at the very least,do an EGR delete.My old 7.3 has a 6 position DP tuner on it and its been good.Lookin at tuners for the 6.0 and it seems everything now is monitor style and have gone away from the twist knob or push button w display I currently have.Mostly what I have saw are Bully Dog or Diablo sport units.Whats everybody running and what would you do different if you were buying a new one?? Truck has a factory boost and trans temp gauge in the cluster.Are the gauges reliable enuf to just use those and just add a pyro or is that part of the programmers features???If so I assume these unit's monitor all the temps that the pillar gauges use to???
 
Edge cts on a 6.0 imho.

It will give you the accurate readout from all the that Yes as well as the eCm info.

Before you delete it, run a while and measure the temp delta between oil temp and coolant temp...after warm, not loaded and at as close to constant speed. This is a tell for how good the oil coooler is working . if you see delta's greater than 10 degrees there is trouble in paradise.

If you choose to delete the egr, when you get down to install the bypass you are right beside the oil cooler. Replace it while in there with a Ford oem unit.

I like swapping coolant for non silicate diesel sca coolant.

The best 20 you can spend is the upgrade on the fuel filter drain. Replaces the hex recess that is prone to strip with a brass hand loosen plug.
 
Delete the EGR and replace the oil cooler while you're in there, get the CAT off there, absolutely be sure that you replace the STC fitting if it hasn't been done because it will leave you walking if you don't, and tune it with SCT. Very small tune (30 hp) just to turn off the EGR, unless you want to do head studs and gaskets real soon. If you want gauges, the Edge CTS 2 is by far my favorite. About all the guys I know (diesel techs) and everybody's truck that I've worked on are running 10w-30 Motorcraft Diesel Oil. Your injectors will operate much better with the lighter oil.
 
SCT Livewire TS

Mild tow tune, or no tune if you want. Keep an eye on the oil temp and coolant temp. Make sure they don’t get too different (don’t remeber the spread in which to be concerned) being able to monitor all that you can see with that setup lets you know when to be concerned and you can stop before destroying it with the known issues like EGR, head gasket and such. It’s usually a domino effect, Oil cooler gets clogged, messing up the EGR which then starves the head and blows the head gasket. If I remeber that order correctly... been a while.

Disclaimer: I’ve never owned one, just been around them and I wanted an 06-07 forever so I did a TON of internet reading and became a keyboard hero. Everyone will bash these trucks, but there’s thousands of them on the road that prove they are worth fixing and driving forever. Even plenty of stock ones with no issues.
 
My '04 F-350 4x4 C&C 6.0L just flipped about 125k 99% stock. I deleted the EGR + new MotorCraft oil cooler at 105K & had a couple injectors replaced at 108k.
While most interweb sources believe the 6.0L blocks are full of casting sand due to sub-par cleaning to meet a price point (it's established that the 6.4L got several magnitudes of cleaning over the 6.0)... good fawkin luck getting the block drains out in the truck! They also say a 30* delta is fine for a missing EGR rig, I don't think it's "normal"....

Made a cap that backflushes the oil cooler (water + compressed air) back thru the lower rad hose.... after doing that the first time & changing to NON-silicate EL antifreeze, would NOT go above a 15* delta (even in 95* ambient dragging 10K# to WV & back at 80mph).
Eventually, that delta eroded back to 30*, so installed a coolant filter... found a LOT of silica at 5k, just haven't had time to backflush the cooler again (I know it's partially clogged again).

I'm fine with towing performance, but will likely go with a full 4" in the spring to see if helps the MPGs a bit.
Still scared of running a tune, but lot's of folks run "stud safe tunes" and like them... until then, I monitor ALL the stats with TorquePro on my phone

Snappy & other sold me on the SCT LiveWire TS years ago
 
You want a
6E7Z-9C082-A/2589259C91
Ford Part
Cost $25 in this link: 6.0L Powerstroke HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Ford Diesel

I bought mine from the big ford diesel dealer up there in Jody's neck of the woods...Im drawing a blank on their name. My HFCM case cracked so I had to replace the whole thing (still like $60) and bought the improved plud when I did so.
Dont put a wrench on it, its brass into aluminum, torque is barely tight...its a captive seal it wont leak.
I made it a habit to drain mine weekly and this made it a tool-less 2 minute job.
 
Ron said:
Before you delete it, run a while and measure the temp delta between oil temp and coolant temp...after warm, not loaded and at as close to constant speed. This is a tell for how good the oil coooler is working . if you see delta's greater than 10 degrees there is trouble in paradise.
Click to expand...
I think Im gonna do like @Caver Dave and get the app for my phone and see whats up before I do anything.
Ron said:
If you choose to delete the egr, when you get down to install the bypass you are right beside the oil cooler. Replace it while in there with a Ford oem unit.
Click to expand...
and it looks like that would be the time to do the STC fitting also?? What everybodies thoughts on doin away w the whole EGR system,cooler and all??

Ron said:
I like swapping coolant for non silicate diesel sca coolant.
Click to expand...
I take it that you are also be a fan of coolant filtration??​
 
Hurdt299 said:
absolutely be sure that you replace the STC fitting if it hasn't been done because it will leave you walking if you don't, and tune it with SCT.
Click to expand...
I know there are no set in stone rules but is that typically something that happens on higher mileage engines???
Hurdt299 said:
Very small tune (30 hp) just to turn off the EGR, unless you want to do head studs and gaskets real soon.
Click to expand...
I would be ok w never doin them.My 7.3 always pulled good and 90% of the time I was pleased w it but w 311K on the original injectors,trans and turbo it was just a matter of time before it started to cost me.If this one does as good as the 7.3 did Ill leave it alone.
Hurdt299 said:
About all the guys I know (diesel techs) and everybody's truck that I've worked on are running 10w-30 Motorcraft Diesel Oil. Your injectors will operate much better with the lighter oil.
Click to expand...
The oil had been changed last week at the Ford place in Boone so I don't know exactly what oil is in it now.The truck is spotless inside and clean/dry under the hood.The guy I got it off of had a real neat looking place on the side of the mountain in Newland and seemed like the kinda guy who would be kinda anal about maint so Im pretty hopeful about the truck.Really didn't want a 6.0 but every 7.3 I found was the same mileage as mine or $25-$30 K,wasnt willing to pay the Cummins tax,and don't like the IFS front on the Chevy's and everything in my price range was rust buckets.06 CC DW Lariet w 85K for $15K??? Im your huckleberry.​
 
Caver Dave said:
block drains out in the truck! They also say a 30* delta is fine for a missing EGR rig, I don't think it's "normal"....
Click to expand...
The delta check is irrelevant on a deleted truck.
The removing the egr cooler removes the balance.
 
1-tonmudder said:
and it looks like that would be the time to do the STC fitting also?? What everybodies thoughts on doin away w the whole EGR system,cooler and all??
I take it that you are also be a fan of coolant filtration??​
Click to expand...

I'm no ford expert guru mechanic...but I'll give you my opinion and experiences.
My last 6.0 I sold with 245k on the odometer and had never touched the snap to connect fittings. Sure some fail, like any part, but they are also prone to breaking/leaking if they bear weight. I think mnay folks cause their own issues there. If they weren't leaking Id be inclined to leave them.

Ive installed bypass coolant filters and have omitted. If you drain the block thoroughly when you swap coolant I wouldn't worry about it.
Unlike caver's experience above Ive never had an issue removing at least the drivers side block drain. The passenger side is a bitch to get to on a 4wd truck.

Most of the "casting sand" in my opinion, and it flies in the face of every internet expert in existence, isnt sand at all but silicate drop out particulate. Diesel engines are different in their cooling needs and flash spots than gas engines. Ford used the "ford gold" coolant in the 6.0s from factory. When it over pressurizes it crystalizes and I think that is what most are calling casting sand.

I used my 07 like a lab rat. I ran 6 different types of oil through it and had analysis done on every oil change. Just for my own personal nerd out.
In terms of results ...by the time I sold it Id only use Rotella T6 Full syn on a 25k mile change interval or valvoline max blue (cummins oil) on a 7k change interval.
I could see as much as a full mpg delta between the T6 and the T4 or T5 rotella.
My truck's injectors hated the Motorcraft oil. They made a ton more noise and took longer to clean up than anything else.
The Valvoline consistently came back the cleanest on the oil analysis, but it also got bottom of the barrel fuel mileage.

I know Flint, got something like 450k ou of his stock tranny in his 03 6.0. But he had every ford recommended service done. I think he probably paid enough to replace the tranny in tranny service charges
 
Ron said:
The delta check is irrelevant on a deleted truck.
The removing the egr cooler removes the balance.
Click to expand...

The "delta", regardless of the ECT appears to still point out the efficiency (potential clogging) of the cooler, right?
Higher than the magical 15* may not be an issue, but keeping it below the very real de-fueling at 253* is a must IMHO! (can't be good for the oil)

I was having some bad ECT for a bit... pressure washed about a wheelbarrow load of dirt/corn shucks (truck came from Kansas) from the exterior of the rad, new FoMoCo T-stat, coolant filter, and swapped the failed ECM controlled fan clutch for the BPD 7.3L Powerstroke clutch. Don't recall seeing ECTs higher 205* since, even dragging @Tater 's enclosed trailer @ 14K for hours at highway speeds. Granted, the old school thermal clutch winds the fan when cold (sounds like a garbage truck), but have never worried about ECTs since...
 
Ron said:
I know Flint, got something like 450k ou of his stock tranny in his 03 6.0. But he had every ford recommended service done. I think he probably paid enough to replace the tranny in tranny service charges
Click to expand...
The PO had a 30 ft GN camper they pulled w it and he said after every long pull w the camper (he pulled it to Montana 4 times) he would have trans serviced.The fluid in it now looks/smells new.However it is on its third turbo.First went out w 70 ish K on the truck,supposedly replaced it w one that lasted 5k,although Ford cant find a record of it.The one on it now has about 2K and is still under Ford warranty.Thats the only thing that is concerning to me,whats up w the turbo failures??
 
e2762448e32958c91163f777afd07f3f.jpg



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If anything, lack of being used made them crap out. I know the exhaust sides like to carbon up and need to be cleaned from time to time. Maybe that's what the PO meant by them crapping out...who knows? Sorta sounds like he was over the top with maintenance anyway.

I don't think any grass will grow under it while you own it, so that'll likely do it some good. I'd be prepared to start dealing with lots of minors leaks, but we can always hope not.

No matter what, that's a helluva deal for 15k and if you shit can the 6.0 in the future, a Cummins will fit very nicely in its place :D
 
Croatan_Kid said:
If anything, lack of being used made them crap out. I know the exhaust sides like to carbon up and need to be cleaned from time to time. Maybe that's what the PO meant by them crapping out...who knows?
Click to expand...
Yean I have been doing a lot of reading on them and they say carbon build up is a problem.
Croatan_Kid said:
I don't think any grass will grow under it while you own it, so that'll likely do it some good. I'd be prepared to start dealing with lots of minors leaks, but we can always hope not.

No matter what, that's a helluva deal for 15k and if you shit can the 6.0 in the future, a Cummins will fit very nicely in its place :D
Click to expand...
No I rolled its ass to Pigeon Forge and back today and Ill be in Knoxville tomorrow.I've been lookin for a long time and from what I've saw its a $20-$25K truck.
 
My understanding about the carbon build up is it needs to be opened up and really let that 6.0 sing often and it will keep the turbo clean(er)

Bonus: If it goes again you can find you an 03-04 turbo and with a straight pipe it sounds amazing. Some people don't like it, but I LOVE the way the 03-04 sound, like a freakin jet bout to take off!
 
I’m not a diesel tech, but one of my best Friends is and he likes the 6.0 the best out of the Ford motors.
He said most of the problems came from people realizing they could make a lot of power compared to the motors around that time and the previous 7.3. People threw the power at them and then didn’t understand why heads would lift.
Basically use it as a truck and not a drag car and they hold up to a small tune.


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1-tonmudder said:
However it is on its third turbo.First went out w 70 ish K on the truck,supposedly replaced it w one that lasted 5k,although Ford cant find a record of it.The one on it now has about 2K and is still under Ford warranty.Thats the only thing that is concerning to me,whats up w the turbo failures??
Click to expand...

Until mine cut-loose a few summers back... I didn't see turbo issues as exactly common.
It was 95*, dragging 12K enclosed, and was letting it eat with the cruise on 80... when the v-band clamp (holds the 2 halves together) broke!
The clamp breaking allowed the cold side to pull out of the housing and shitwrecked all the VGT vanes.
Limped it home (barely) and yanked it off...
Sent it to my bud in Knoxville (he's maintained a few 100 6.0L's, seen a TON of goofy crap, and does performance rebuilds), said it was toast, and sent me a 100k mile take off from a core he bought to rebuild.
Still doing fine after 10K...
 
4" exhaust (WITH MUFFLER!! Sounds like ASS straight piped)
EGR delete with sinister up-pipe
65+ HP towing tune (SCT)
SOME kind of monitor to constantly watch EGT, EOT, ECT
And most importantly, DO NOT leave the cruise control on when climbing with +10K load.

I was leaving golden mountain fully loaded and hit that climb on 40 with the cruise at 70 when the temp went from 215 to 250 in less than a second. Limped home by stopping every 100 miles to add a gallon of water :shaking: (thank GOD for @Jason W. )

After that I got decked, ARP gaskets, ARP studs and never use the cruise unless I'm rolling on flat ground. (lesson learned the hard way)

And I disagree with Phillip....the 2003 "whistle" is annoying to me. Maybe because the only times I've heard it were when driven by total douche canoe's that seemed to be thoroughly getting off to it's sound and made SURE everyone around them heard the variation in throttle o_O
See also honda civic type ARRR straight piped
 
CasterTroy said:
4" exhaust (WITH MUFFLER!! Sounds like ASS straight piped)
EGR delete with sinister up-pipe
65+ HP towing tune (SCT)
SOME kind of monitor to constantly watch EGT, EOT, ECT
And most importantly, DO NOT leave the cruise control on when climbing with +10K load.

I was leaving golden mountain fully loaded and hit that climb on 40 with the cruise at 70 when the temp went from 215 to 250 in less than a second. Limped home by stopping every 100 miles to add a gallon of water :shaking: (thank GOD for @Jason W. )

After that I got decked, ARP gaskets, ARP studs and never use the cruise unless I'm rolling on flat ground. (lesson learned the hard way)

And I disagree with Phillip....the 2003 "whistle" is annoying to me. Maybe because the only times I've heard it were when driven by total douche canoe's that seemed to be thoroughly getting off to it's sound and made SURE everyone around them heard the variation in throttle o_O
See also honda civic type ARRR straight piped
Click to expand...

I'd proly be a total Bro-Dozer if I owned am 03-04 6.0, probably get me some white sunglasses to wear while driving too.

You're right, most people ride around thrashing on them and it gets old. And I also haven't owned one so it might would get old after a while. I did drive an 04 towing a jeep most of the way to Harlan and back and did not mind the sound, and it towed really well and got great mielage even on 6" lift and 37s with an SCT tow tune and full bulletproof package.

Also- There is this YouTube dude who owns a shop in GA who is a Powerstroke guru, and swears by the 6.0 once properly refined. You can go waste some time on some no too long vids in the link below to learn a little more.

This is a good one:
Also this one:
 
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