Discussion in 'Tow Rigs and Trailers' started by 1-tonmudder, Jan 14, 2019.
might be but I was thinking it was the other way around.
So, what actually happened??
Stretched the TTY's, lifted a head/smoked the headgasket?
My experience is that once the engine temp hit's "critical", they will de-fuel to the point you can't get off the road fast enough... much less continue to the point of damage! Mine "manifested" pulling Old Fort Mtn. with 7K# and the ECT hit 222*F &/or EOT hit 235*F-sh due to failing "electronic fan" (running BPD's metal impeller waterpump & 7.3 fan clutch cured that shat)
Exactly what I have planned in the next month (time pending, but parts are on the way!)... 4" MBRP, LiveWire TS+ w/ EGT & backup camera (plus, LED backup & work lights, seat covers, mats, and a host of other non-drivetrain parts)
I totally agree about the muffler, my bud has an F-550 4x4 with a built 6.0L... aftermarket pistons, rods, cam, Wicked Wheel, & no muffler... nothing short of deafening!
However, I bought the fawker to be able to USE the Cruise in OD while pulling a load!
Once I replace my radiator I will be able to do this. That's the last item on the list I have to replace.
I have ran a tuner on mine since I got it. I highly recommend it. I run a Livewire TS now and I run +65hp tow safe. I recommend it to anyone. I tow over the mountains to Harlan and that's a tough test. I would recommend a good EGR delete, newer oil cooler, and updated dummy plugs and stand pipes as preventative maintenance.
I keep clicking this thread thinking it's about gas motors. I'll just leave this here:
FYI if you do some looking you can get a new all-aluminum radiator from Mishimoto for about $350. Wait till you get a coupon code for eBay and you can get it down below $300 likely. I have one in my excursion and F-350. Way better than the plastic tanks.
According to my research (intense lurking over keyboard warriors on different forums) the mushy moto didnt really give any better "performance" and the fanboys were all tim Taylor grunting over "stock"
I don't imagine performance is really any better than stock, and not sure I would replace just for the heck of it, but if you NEED a radiator I think the longevity of an all aluminum would be worth an extra $100-200. Not sure what a radiator from Ford would cost, but a parts store radiator would be $150 or so.
I've found Ford for $350. They ain't cheap
Bulletproof has the all aluminum mushy motors for nearly $500
Yea search eBay. It won't be the first thing that comes up, but you can get a genuine Mishimoto for around 300-350 shipped. I have bought two. I wouldn't pay the $500+ price for one.
Mishimoto Ford 6.0L Powerstroke Aluminum Radiator, 2003-2007 | eBay
03-04 had different connections than 05-07
Can't see how they can say fits 03-07
Also, not compatible with manual trans (scroll down to see warnings)
You can compare the ones on my excursion and f350 (03/05) and see if there is anything different. (Or compared to a manual).
The best thing I did to help oil temps was ditch the factory oil cooler and install an oil cooler in front of the radiator. I also have my oil filter on the frame rail now. Oil temps NEVER get hot, I don't even watch them anymore.
I'm wondering if you can just plug the auto trans cooler bungs
Why would you even need to? It's not like coolant circulates through the transmission, or is it a trans that has a water cooler on it? I didn't look it and not familiar with the particular application. But even if it is a water cooler on the trans, I don't see why you couldn't source plugs & just plug the connections.
It's an odd connector, might have to get a hose made and runnit from one side to the other. I don't remember on the Mishimoto, but on the plastic radiator you would HAVE to put something in it to hold the cooler in place as the trans cooler would literally fall off inside and leave a big gaping hole for coolant to come out.
I'm no R Kelly, so maybe I'm reading it wrong, but is that not the same thing I said?!?
(Not being an ass...this hour loss + lack of sufficient coffee has me questioning logic)
It is but I was wondering if the connections were for coolant or trans fluid.
The BPD version Or something else?
I bought this:
Oil Cooler Delete Adapter, Ford 6.0L and 6.4L Diesel
I then made my own setup with a Cummins oil filter base (I had 40 new Cummins filters so figured I would make use of them), a huge cooler I had here, and some push-lok hose and fittings. The only downside is it is a little more time consuming to do an oil change. I have to drain the oil pan, the filter, and the cooler. Capacity is about 6 gallons now though. The cooler I used is larger than the one BPD uses, but mine was free haha. Don't take free that it is cheap, it's military surplus so it was likely VERY expensive when all of you guys helped pay for it the first time.
I'd seen that they offered just the block-off plate, but... I was a bit intimidated by the their disclaimer language and the large numbers of "Optional" ports... Care to share your plumbing diagram (ports used, ports plugged) with that plate?
How big a cooler are you talking? Specs?
Where'd you mount it exactly?
Using the plate was easy. Just JIC fittings and hose, nothing special. Have to cut the fuel filter off your factory oil filter base, but the fuel lines seem to support the filter just fine. The plate is labeled in/out, just run a hose to the cooler, then from cooler to a filter base of your choosing, then back to the plate . There is also a port on the plate for an oil pressure gauge.
The cooler I used is roughly 14"x24" if I had to guess. About 2" thick. It is way overkill but VERY heavy duty. I had to mount it vertically, and had to trim the grille support a little bit for fitment. It would have been for hydraulic/transmission fluid in the application it came from so I know the capacity is plenty, the ports are 1-1/8" I think. I have another one I could likely be coaxed out of for $200 if interested haha.