93 XJ build

Nice! Yeah you've done that a time or two.
 
XJsavage said:
Nice! Yeah you've done that a time or two.
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If the 7018 puddle is running fast in a fillet weld position like that is the voltage too high? I felt like I was keeping the electrode angle pretty optimal and the arc length short.

Edit: these were 7018AC 1/8” electrodes BTW

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NickMaul said:
If the 7018 puddle is running fast in a fillet weld position like that is the voltage too high? I felt like I was keeping the electrode angle pretty optimal and the arc length short.

Edit: these were 7018AC 1/8” electrodes BTW

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It's from a lot of heat, which it's supposed to be. You want the end of the rod to be at the leading edge of it as if you were rubbing the surface of the water with the tip of your finger. With stick you can get good penetration riding your puddle, unlike mig where you have to stay in front of the puddle and even come out of it. This might sound crazy but slow down a bit and just keep it steady.
 
I have put about 3 coats of primer on the frame stiffeners now. I sprayed the weld areas very thick so that should fill in any gaps that might have been created.

I have also prepped for the limit strap which is for the front driveline because of a short driveshaft. Luckily I found that the shocks max out right where the driveshaft begins to bind. Get that fully welded in and things will be on their way :)

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That's the one downside to the 300 in an xj. I would kill U joints almost monthly in mine. :lol:
The limit straps are a very good idea!
 
XJsavage said:
That's the one downside to the 300 in an xj. I would kill U joints almost monthly in mine. :lol:
The limit straps are a very good idea!
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I’ve been keeping my eye open for a dodge 203 range box for this reason :D


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NickMaul said:
I’ve been keeping my eye open for a dodge 203 range box for this reason :D


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I know someone that may still have a dodge 203. Cheap. I'll call him.
 
Guess what I forgot to do...
 
NickMaul said:
I went through your build thread to check and see how tight a 203 is as an under-drive. Looks completely do able!
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It is not too much cutting for it. Now the 205 is an entirely different story.
 
ghost said:
It is not too much cutting for it. Now the 205 is an entirely different story.
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It looked like the 203 is very tall case in a vertical position. If you clock the bottom of the case out to the passenger side do you think you can get by with just hammering the trans tunnel with a mallet?


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The nice thing about putting a 203 in the xj from a dodge is you get to choose where the holes are drilled and tapped. I had mine clocked up. I have pictures but PB hyjacked them. If you want I have them on my home computer. I can share them with you here.
 
Limit strap is in. While I was checking articulation I figured some new longer brake lines are appropriate. YJ lines work great. However my tube flaring skills suck and now I am trying to remove the front drivers side like from the prop valve body.

Let’s say as horrible it is and ass old the fittings are it’s been pulling teeth to try and get out. The fitting is all gummed up and there is hardly room for vise grips to sit in that area.

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CasterTroy said:
Glad to see those duratracs aren't the only thing that's holding you back now :flipoff2:
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Lol. This strap (1) saves my Driveshaft from exploding and (2) only limits my suspension from an inch or two more of droop.

Remind me again how much you paid for you RCVs, atlas, and beadlocks....






:flipoff2:


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I’m about to rename this thread project leaky bitch. I got everything wrapped up to take it for a shakedown run on the interstate and such. Everything went fine minus my loss of castor angle and it tracking strait.

On the way back into the neighborhood I wanted to stress the Dana 300. I put it into 2wd lo range (4th gear) and cruised at 10 mph for about 5 minutes.

At the same time I pulled into the garage I smell gear oil. Turns out my home made catch can leaks at the threads. So I’ll JB weld that thing shut. Also felt some gear out at the lid of the case. Must be my hack vent line. I’ll keep an eye on the oil level. I put in the 2 quarts that everyone recommends regardless of how it is clocked. I am thinking it will pump out some excess fluid over time and I’ll be left with what the case wants to keep. I’ll probably throw in half a cup of ATF to help keep the foaming down.

Besides that nothing else to complain about :D I’ll try to hit up the URE ride at Christmas time with CTB.


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I had my first shakedown at big creek with CTB last weekend. I drove down on state highways at 55 mph to keep any unnecessary stress off of the Dana 300 until I knew how it handled highway duty. Some seepage out of the front output and shift rails. Nothing significant though.

Get to big creek and opt to ride around in 4lo all day in hopes to officially break in the bearings/gears. The twin sticks were wonderful navigating through all of the trees there. 1st gear was too slow for anything since it was mucky and slippery.

Shocks through the floor in the back were noticeable. Still have a little clearance job to do. And the traction bar was invisible. Didn’t even scrape any paint off of it.

I return to Greensboro and notice the front output shaft has more end play in it. I imagine this is from bearings and gears officially breaking in. Oddly enough there was zero oil seepage after the ride. I’ll play it safe and reset the bearing preload on the front output (simple).

No strange noises or vibrations. I beat on it a little on a pretty slick obstacle I eventually had to winch over.

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A little late to the party. But subbed. Definitely a lot I can learn in here.

Let me know when you ride next so I can steal your rear bumper. :driver:
 
Let the new year begin. I thought I was going to be nimble and let the lockers and high ground clearance do the hard work. After wheeling for two years on some trails I would consider hard it was always ledges and undercuts that stopped me. I researched and projected costs and a tow rig and trailer won't be realistic for the next two years. I figure if I make my axles bombproof and keep a simple fuse (1310 u joints) I won't have any issues on a drive home from where ever.

Plans are 5.38 gears/detroits front and rear. I have until August to gear these myself then they have to go under the jeep. 3 link the front and keep the leaf springs in the back. I plan on bumping my 3.5" coils to 4.5" coils. I'll retain my 35s :eek: until I can afford new tars, hopefully a nice radial 37-40.

The front 60 is a little intimidating. I am already saving bookmarks of the special tools people need to take these apart and put them back together. To remove the awful brackets that SD 60s have I will use a porta band and my trusty angle grinder.

Let's see how long it takes before I am broke and single :lol:

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