93 XJ build

Trying to stay on top of this. In June I am moving out of my buddies house so I am going to utilize the double garage as best I can.

About two days work and the SD Dana 60 is cleaned up. I went ahead and cut 2” away from the drivers side pumpkin. I feel comfortable cutting off another inch if I need the space for brackets. I saved the scraps to test some nickel rods when I have to weld the tube back to the pumpkin.

My advise is to bulk up on the 6” cut off wheels and buy/borrow a portaband. I tried the sawzal but it takes too much effort.

I can push it to the back of the garage now and just worry about taking it apart then put some 5.38 gears in it. Decided against the Detroit locker. Sounds like when a shaft goes the locker grenades too. Instead I’ll be gettin a spartan locker. I researched hard and people cannot seem to break them in a Dana 60.

Since my carrier is 3.73 gears do I need to order a new carrier or can I get a different thickness gear set?

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Just weld the front and out hydro assist on it. You'll need thick cut gears or a ring gear spacer with std cut gears to keep the carrier you have.

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My old 60 rear had a lockrite in it but the pins sheared and the PO just welded it instead of replacing the pins. The lunchbox lockers will break but it takes some effort. The chromo shafts he had broke when the lunchbox broke.

For gears and the carrier you have, what Chris said is correct if you want to use that carrier. I’m running a ring gear spacer now since it was cheaper to buy std gears and the spacer over thick cut gears.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Just weld the front and out hydro assist on it. You'll need thick cut gears or a ring gear spacer with std cut gears to keep the carrier you have.

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I'll probably go with the thick cut gears just so I can re-use this carrier. Hydro assist for sure, but not right away. Starting off I will be still running my 35s o_O I don't want to go right to welding the spider gears. This will be a street rig as well so I don't want to be in a situation where the front is welded if I need 4wd for whatever reason.

adamk said:
My old 60 rear had a lockrite in it but the pins sheared and the PO just welded it instead of replacing the pins. The lunchbox lockers will break but it takes some effort. The chromo shafts he had broke when the lunchbox broke.

For gears and the carrier you have, what Chris said is correct if you want to use that carrier. I’m running a ring gear spacer now since it was cheaper to buy std gears and the spacer over thick cut gears.
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I have faith after reading guys with 40s and big blocks are breaking chromo shafts and driveshafts but the front lunchbox locker goes unscathed. A few people reported wearing out the teeth on the gears but they admit to being harsh on their rigs. I don't think my future 37s and 4.0 are going to touch it.

I still have some time to think about it. I will probably be placing my order for this stuff at the end of January.
 
NickMaul said:
I'll probably go with the thick cut gears just so I can re-use this carrier. Hydro assist for sure, but not right away. Starting off I will be still running my 35s o_O I don't want to go right to welding the spider gears. This will be a street rig as well so I don't want to be in a situation where the front is welded if I need 4wd for whatever reason.



I have faith after reading guys with 40s and big blocks are breaking chromo shafts and driveshafts but the front lunchbox locker goes unscathed. A few people reported wearing out the teeth on the gears but they admit to being harsh on their rigs. I don't think my future 37s and 4.0 are going to touch it.

I still have some time to think about it. I will probably be placing my order for this stuff at the end of January.
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Literally no difference if you have a lunchbox or welded on slick stuff. The wheels have to have enough traction to rachet the locker. Any other situation just lock a single hub. Save the locker money and go straight with hydro assist, it can be done for under 200 doll hairs. Also @adamk may make you a good deal on some iroks.

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Chris_Keziah said:
Literally no difference if you have a lunchbox or welded on slick stuff. The wheels have to have enough traction to rachet the locker. Any other situation just lock a single hub.
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During the CTB Christmas ride I just popped the front axle in neutral and navigated the tight turns like the front would be open diff. I understand the thought though. If I start going down this path so early I won’t have a Jeep to off-road until 2020 :D


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I spent a lot of unnecessary money on my front lunchbox. It never ratchets off road. On road I just leave the hubs unlocked. My front is a 44 turning 40s at the moment.

As for hydro assist, with the width of that front axle and the fact that a lunchbox just won’t ratchet off road, you’ll wish you had it. Greatest thing I ever did to help turning was hydro assist. It’s your call when you want to do certain things but, I’m my experience, the sooner the better. I also happen to have a box drilled and tapped sitting on the parts shelve right now, just FYI.
 
Well the 300 has been holding my Jeep hostage lately. I haven’t been satisfied with how warm the case has been after driving the interstate. I did a tear down to inspect everything inside and I find this.

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This is the input shaft that mates into the female end of the output shaft. It rides in a standard pilot needle bearing. Well something (probably bearing preload, my fault) went wrong and caused the pilot bearing to almost seize up on the shaft.

The damage is hard to see in the picture but it was noticeable if I scrape my fingernail on that shaft across the vertical scores. I am going to put a new needle bearing in and run the bearing preload at the top end of the spec tolerance. I hope this doesn’t happen again.

Besides that the goal for now is to get this back on the road, pass Virginia inspection(barf), then wheel in PA, KY, and Potts Mountain.

Meanwhile I will look into cutting my rear wheel wells and raising the rock sliders another inch or two for more clearance :D


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Picking up where I left off. So it turns out there was a real issue with the rear output shaft on the Dana 300. I had a bad feeling something was wrong. Well this all unfolded...
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Trying to remove the tail housing got screwed because the tapered bearing was on too tight from the heat generated by the low range gear and main shaft wearing on each other. Not sure how this all happened. I guess that the shaft already had too much wear on it and a bad bearing preload caused heat to build up.

Procured another gear and an advance adapters 32 spline output shaft. Things got further delayed because AA sent the wrong kit. Sorted that out and popped it in. Re did my rear brake lines, put on a stock exhaust, and threw some Virginia tags on it. Put some miles on it and try to get back on the trails. It’s been too long!

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XJsavage said:
I'm glad to see this back on page 1 where it belongs. :smokin:
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Allocating time and money to this recently has been tough. I guess it is just this age (25yrs old). Things might be somewhat slow but I won’t get rid of it. Where I live it is definitely fun to drive around being that every 4x4 here is either a Subaru or a wrangler. If/when it ever snows here I basically have the city to myself which is fun to think of :D


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You need to come back and wheel with me at the Crawl this summer......
 
ghost said:
You need to come back and wheel with me at the Crawl this summer......
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Dude ghost is a beast. Once this one ton swap gets underway you can bet I’ll be there the following summer :)


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Found some 37s in an even trade for my 35s. Wheels have about an inch less back spacing so they are definitely pushed out. Thankfully the super duty axles will help fill these in.

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Lately life has been chaos but this October and November I am looking forward to some wrenching time. I moved into an apartment with the girl friend and lost my garage but found a super cool guy that runs storage units for cars and boats. His electrician can wire in my 220v when I need it.

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Try to ride at the fun run then pop these axles up for sale and swap in the super duty axles.

Besides the storage unit the Jeep lives happily on some really small rocks.

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#urbanwheeling

Scrounging for whatever I can find to try and stuff the wheel wells. Did some trimming up front. Going to have to add some more bump stop for the rear until I can resize the wheel well.

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Try to get the tires dirty this weekend. Then take these old axles out and begin mocking up the new axles.


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I was pleased with everything during my brief ride with CTB. @amcjeepman helped me out big time and helped me finish a new front output shift rail since no one makes one anymore. Oil was leaking past the seal in my Dana 300 since the existing rail was pitted with rust.
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Been collecting some parts. Really looking forward to the new planned 3 link suspension. Looks like Black Friday will be the best for that purchase :D

In the mean time I picked up ruff stuff diff covers and a slightly used spartan locker for the front.

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NickMaul said:
I was pleased with everything during my brief ride with CTB. @amcjeepman helped me out big time and helped me finish a new front output shift rail since no one makes one anymore. Oil was leaking past the seal in my Dana 300 since the existing rail was pitted with rust.
980030710c5a3d3f99743e912df33a79.jpg


Been collecting some parts. Really looking forward to the new planned 3 link suspension. Looks like Black Friday will be the best for that purchase :D

In the mean time I picked up ruff stuff diff covers and a slightly used spartan locker for the front.

e14570856c62a925a5d56e5063d19f96.jpg



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3:22AM :eek::eek: Go to bed
 
Some churn recently. Sold the old axles. I ordered some Barnes4wd hiem steering and an artec knuckle bits. The artec kit is supposed to be for full hydro steering but it was on sale and if you are familiar with the goofy taper on the passenger knuckle this artec kit is machined to fit it.

Should be able to stack the passenger side hiems then weld a plate on the knuckle for double shear. Not seeing any issues besides the close contact on the OEM ford steelies. Might grab a socket head cap screw for the smaller diameter in way of the wheel.

I needed more room on my shelves so I threw on the ruff stuff diff covers that were taking space. While I was in there I realized the front 60 is 4.10 gear. Thought it was 3.73

I plan to pull the shafts to rebuild the u joints with full circle clips. I also need to see what the status is of the lock outs.

I’ll be taking a short hiatus on ordering parts but I will be tackling some of the hefty body work and re working the brakes. My single diaphragm booster is being replaced with a WJ booster and a 99 2500 Dodge Ram master cylinder.

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Keeping an eye on this.
 
My favorite tcase ever. I have a few of them just laying around here. I wish I'd known you needed one.
 
XJsavage said:
My favorite tcase ever. I have a few of them just laying around here. I wish I'd known you needed one.
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The new plan. NWF Eco box behind the AX15 to the 205.

I might have to discuss output yokes with you, but I am going this direction for two reasons.

1. I want my front DS length back. Even on short arms I maxed out my driveshaft angle and put in a limit strap to keep from binding.

2. The tiny dripping of it being flipped. I might just be anal but I was so distracted by it dripping. Oil leaks are deceiving though. It would drip, but every time I would check the sight tube the oil level remained constant. Beats me.

Anyways I loved the Dana 300 but the 205 is a hoss with everything I want and no leaks.

Time to buy a Trans Jack at HF so I can lift this thing up :D



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The Ford 205 is a really simple as far as yoke sizes go. 78 had a 1310 and the 79 had 1330. I've got both sizes laying around so let me know what you need.
 
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