93 XJ build

[Tim C]

The Ford 205 is a really simple as far as yoke sizes go. 78 had a 1310 and the 79 had 1330. I've got both sizes laying around so let me know what you need.

And you can buy aftermarket 1350 and flange yokes for it too. I'm running aftermarket 1350 CV flanges on the 205 in my 78 Ford, and it came with 1310 like ^ said.

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[ghost]

The new plan. NWF Eco box behind the AX15 to the 205.

I might have to discuss output yokes with you, but I am going this direction for two reasons.

1. I want my front DS length back. Even on short arms I maxed out my driveshaft angle and put in a limit strap to keep from binding.

2. The tiny dripping of it being flipped. I might just be anal but I was so distracted by it dripping. Oil leaks are deceiving though. It would drip, but every time I would check the sight tube the oil level remained constant. Beats me.

Anyways I loved the Dana 300 but the 205 is a hoss with everything I want and no leaks.

Time to buy a Trans Jack at HF so I can lift this thing up



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I will be interested in how you like the NWF box. That is what I want to do with mine but cannot right yet.

 

[NickMaul]

I will be interested in how you like the NWF box. That is what I want to do with mine but cannot right yet.

I read good reviews. One guy did UA17 in an XJ with a titan box in front of a 205. I also read a K5 build out west with an eco box front of a 205. They both put a bunch of miles, trail and highway, and yet to have any problems.

I did contact NWF and they were probably being conservative but they said not to take the eco box out on the highway since there is so little oil in the case. I don’t see why it can’t hold up. I’ll just change the oil frequently if it sees a lot of highway miles. I’m excited. There is always the 203 for a reduction box if the EcoBox doesn’t pan out.


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[Chris_Keziah]

I read good reviews. One guy did UA17 in an XJ with a titan box in front of a 205. I also read a K5 build out west with an eco box front of a 205. They both put a bunch of miles, trail and highway, and yet to have any problems.

I did contact NWF and they were probably being conservative but they said not to take the eco box out on the highway since there is so little oil in the case. I don’t see why it can’t hold up. I’ll just change the oil frequently if it sees a lot of highway miles. I’m excited. There is always the 203 for a reduction box if the EcoBox doesn’t pan out.


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If it makes you feel any better I plan to run the same setup in mine after the tons. Seems like the most simplistic and economical way to get lower gears and a 4 spd case at the same time.

 

[Jody Treadway]

I did a Klune/205 back in 04-06. The Klune was what you youngins are calling the Econobox.
It is very true they hold little fluid. I would look into a way to fill it as much as possible to aid in cooling and lubrication.

You'll love the gearing options with that setup

 

[Chris_Keziah]

I did a Klune/205 back in 04-06. The Klune was what you youngins are calling the Econobox.
It is very true they hold little fluid. I would look into a way to fill it as much as possible to aid in cooling and lubrication.

You'll love the gearing options with that setup

At least I still fit into the youngin category

What fluid do they spec for the crawl/eco/klune box? ATF? Don't think it would take much effort to do but I'm sure you could source a small electric oil/fluid pump and circulate that to/from a resi.

 

[Jody Treadway]

At least I still fit into the youngin category

What fluid do they spec for the crawl/eco/klune box? ATF? Don't think it would take much effort to do but I'm sure you could source a small electric oil/fluid pump and circulate that to/from a resi.

IIRC, I used synthetic ATF which was likely stolen from the dealership I was working at

 

[ghost]

I did a Klune/205 back in 04-06. The Klune was what you youngins are calling the Econobox.
It is very true they hold little fluid. I would look into a way to fill it as much as possible to aid in cooling and lubrication.

You'll love the gearing options with that setup

I actually remember the klune.... Always thought they were a great idea. When I ditch the 203 a NWF box will replace it.

 

[NickMaul]

The guy with the K5 out west took a temp off of his driveline after cruising around on the highway and his eco box was about the same as his auto GM trans and his ford 205. About 140*F IIRC. It would be cool for it to have some sort of sump for added capacity but heat soak is just inevitable.

Honestly unless it is burning atf like a mofo I can’t see it being an issue. Do the aluminum chain cases have a pump to circulate the fluid or a slinger?


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[ghost]

The guy with the K5 out west took a temp off of his driveline after cruising around on the highway and his eco box was about the same as his auto GM trans and his ford 205. About 140*F IIRC. It would be cool for it to have some sort of sump for added capacity but heat soak is just inevitable.

Honestly unless it is burning atf like a mofo I can’t see it being an issue. Do the aluminum chain cases have a pump to circulate the fluid or a slinger?


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The 231 has a pump on the tail shaft.

 

[NickMaul]

Shit box Cherokee here we come. 16” fox coilovers. Came off of a V8 wrangler crawler, rear springs, so I think the coils will most likely need changed but we’ll see.

Plan is to put these up front. I realize 16” is way too much but I don’t mind cutting a hole in the hood for the hoops to make room for them.


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[BigClay]

Spring hoops in the hood have to complemented with cowl scoop too!!

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Shit box Cherokee here we come. 16” fox coilovers. Came off of a V8 wrangler crawler, rear springs, so I think the coils will most likely need changed but we’ll see.

Plan is to put these up front. I realize 16” is way too much but I don’t mind cutting a hole in the hood for the hoops to make room for them.


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They won't work for you but those rates would work for my jeep. Just send them to me so they'll see use this year Honestly though I'd buy those if you wanna find some 14s.

 

[NickMaul]

send them to me so they'll see use this year

I’ve got ten months!


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[Chris_Keziah]

I’ve got ten months!


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I could have them installed in 10 days on my Jeep....

 

[Jody Treadway]

9 days without a comp cut

 

[CasterTroy]

I bet that shop that did the hydro on that XJ could have it done in 4

 

[Chris_Keziah]

I bet that shop that did the hydro on that XJ could have it done in 4

Maybe, that would be assuming that said shop had all brackets in stock.

 

[NickMaul]

Maybe, that would be assuming that said shop had all brackets in stock.

Chris was right. The coilovers won’t work on the front so I guess we better put them out back these are only 2.0 coil overs. I was reading for a Cherokee rig 2.5s are better on the front. Figure 2.0s will do fine in the rear.

Trying to place the sterling. I think it is time to relocate the gas tank up even with the frame rails. Can’t promise there will be enough clearance.

Front stiffeners are here. After that it’s time to redo the rock sliders then redo the rear wheel wells for the stretch.



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[Chris_Keziah]

Chris was right. The coilovers won’t work on the front so I guess we better put them out back these are only 2.0 coil overs. I was reading for a Cherokee rig 2.5s are better on the front. Figure 2.0s will do fine in the rear.

Trying to place the sterling. I think it is time to relocate the gas tank up even with the frame rails. Can’t promise there will be enough clearance.

Front stiffeners are here. After that it’s time to redo the rock sliders then redo the rear wheel wells for the stretch.



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Leafs are cheaper and I need coilovers......

 

[Mac5005]

Unless you plan to race in some form, 2.0’s will be plenty sufficient.

A bigger issue is when you need super light spring rates ( <100lbs coils) they tend to bow badly when over 12” long.

This is sometimes the reason to go to a 2.5” to run a larger 3.0 spring.

One down fall to bigger shocks mounted on the axle, is that the ride quality can become quite harsh, just getting the valving to start working. The 2.5s require more force than the 2.0.

 

[NickMaul]

Unless you plan to race in some form, 2.0’s will be plenty sufficient.

A bigger issue is when you need super light spring rates ( <100lbs coils) they tend to bow badly when over 12” long.

This is sometimes the reason to go to a 2.5” to run a larger 3.0 spring.

One down fall to bigger shocks mounted on the axle, is that the ride quality can become quite harsh, just getting the valving to start working. The 2.5s require more force than the 2.0.

Thanks for the insight. I’ve got a lot of reading to do. I’ve already digested most of the pirate information. Only to get the idea that I’ll just need to get rough estimates and try something.

I don’t plan to try any sort of racing but I do want to be able to ride down the interstate from time to time with some sort of peace of mind that the suspension will be manageable in the event of a high speed maneuver.

Should I plan on having at least one anti rock swaybar with coilovers?




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[336wheeler]

Damn right. This just took a nice turn

 

[NickMaul]

Leafs are cheaper and I need coilovers......

I actually quoted some high quality leaf springs and thought let’s just triangulate the rear with coils for a little bit more.

Do some more digging and because I am lazy I look up Ironman4x4 rear coil conversion brackets. Almost $400. Add coils to that cost. Shit. I already have the coilovers and hoops.

Budget build probably doesn’t fit the scope of what’s happening anymore


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[Chris_Keziah]

I actually quoted some high quality leaf springs and thought let’s just triangulate the rear with coils for a little bit more.

Do some more digging and because I am lazy I look up Ironman4x4 rear coil conversion brackets. Almost $400. Add coils to that cost. Shit. I already have the coilovers and hoops.

Budget build probably doesn’t fit the scope of what’s happening anymore


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There's nothing "budget" about going with tons