93 XJ build

There's nothing "budget" about going with tons

Cheaper in the long run to just buy a rig someone has already swapped tons onto (as long as it's not a booger-fab production)

This is why I don't even consider shopping for axles, and ultimately what I am low-key searching for, with funds I don't have
 
Cheaper in the long run to just buy a rig someone has already swapped tons onto (as long as it's not a booger-fab production)

This is why I don't even consider shopping for axles, and ultimately what I am low-key searching for, with funds I don't have

This is true, for what I'll have in my rig once the tons are under it I could have bought a nice v8 buggy.
 
This is true, for what I'll have in my rig once the tons are under it I could have bought a nice v8 buggy.

Can’t argue that. On paper it makes sense.

For my personality however, I feel like the investment is better spent building it myself. Especially after all of the tools it takes to get to this point.


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Thanks for the insight. I’ve got a lot of reading to do. I’ve already digested most of the pirate information. Only to get the idea that I’ll just need to get rough estimates and try something.

I don’t plan to try any sort of racing but I do want to be able to ride down the interstate from time to time with some sort of peace of mind that the suspension will be manageable in the event of a high speed maneuver.

Should I plan on having at least one anti rock swaybar with coilovers?




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It’s difficult to say at this point, but I would plan to have one, and budget for one, that you may not ever need to actually buy and install.

If you have similar sprung mass f/r and close to 50-50 weight distribution then each suspension will work relatively balanced to the other. Meaning the rear won’t flex any more than the front,

Or the bigger point it won’t use the rear suspension before the front starts working.

If you have higher spring rates on one end, the opposite end will articulate sooner. This is when a sway works well to equal the “timing” of the articulation.

The sway bar forces the opposite suspension to work more, sooner.

That said,

You can control some of the body roll ensuring you have a good step up rate on the coilovers and tune the height of the dual rate sliders.

Generally, once you tune the springs and shocks to get the best quality ride and compliance, you will end up with some body roll.

The next step is a sway bar as you can tune the body roll with the bar stiffness and arm length, without sacrificing any ride quality.

So budget for one, plan for one, then start with tuning the springs, shocks, and dual rate stop nuts. Then see how it feels.

If you tune out the body roll with valving in the shock, it usually results in some harshness in the ride quality.
 
Can’t argue that. On paper it makes sense.

For my personality however, I feel like the investment is better spent building it myself. Especially after all of the tools it takes to get to this point.


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It's more fun to build, plus if it breaks I know who to blame. Which would be @adamk or @77GreenMachine because they let me do it.
 
It’s difficult to say at this point, but I would plan to have one, and budget for one, that you may not ever need to actually buy and install.

If you have similar sprung mass f/r and close to 50-50 weight distribution then each suspension will work relatively balanced to the other. Meaning the rear won’t flex any more than the front,

Or the bigger point it won’t use the rear suspension before the front starts working.

If you have higher spring rates on one end, the opposite end will articulate sooner. This is when a sway works well to equal the “timing” of the articulation.

The sway bar forces the opposite suspension to work more, sooner.

That said,

You can control some of the body roll ensuring you have a good step up rate on the coilovers and tune the height of the dual rate sliders.

Generally, once you tune the springs and shocks to get the best quality ride and compliance, you will end up with some body roll.

The next step is a sway bar as you can tune the body roll with the bar stiffness and arm length, without sacrificing any ride quality.

So budget for one, plan for one, then start with tuning the springs, shocks, and dual rate stop nuts. Then see how it feels.

If you tune out the body roll with valving in the shock, it usually results in some harshness in the ride quality.

Gravy. Before the tear down I did have a booty fab anti rock bar I made from a Isuzu trooper torsion bar. It did great since my rear leafs were so stiff.

However I think a Currie set up is more appropriate for a long arm suspension. I am afraid I would snap the torsion bar after so much angular deflection.


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Gravy. Before the tear down I did have a booty fab anti rock bar I made from a Isuzu trooper torsion bar. It did great since my rear leafs were so stiff.

However I think a Currie set up is more appropriate for a long arm suspension. I am afraid I would snap the torsion bar after so much angular deflection.


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Or mount the arms to the links so angle of twist is less.

Or pac sway bar or tk1
 
Rode with the CTB at AOP in March. Definitely got me motivated to push this build right along.

Knocked out front stiffeners. The lower control arm brackets are triple layer uni-body seam and spot welded all over. There’s a 99% chance that any robust structure from the factory converged on those damn lower control arm mounts.

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Shoot a little weld thru primer and pulled out the squirt gun.

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Enjoyed a leftover AOP beer to celebrate.

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While I was covered in dust I went and chopped the rocker sliders out. Taped off the bottom of the doors that will be cut. They can basically be cut flush with the door sill. Gain about 1.75” of clearance at the slider.

Sunday I met up with the fellow I bought the rear coilovers from and bought his front coilovers. He upgraded all around to ORIs. He also has a set of race car scales he said I could use after my suspension is done :D

Same situation. Unknown valving. 14” fox coilovers. 14”x200lb/in coil over 16”x250lb/in coil. Should be a good starting point for the front suspension.

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Lastly I ordered a heim steering kit from Barnes. Even with a super tight diff cover I felt I should go ahead and grab some offset heims to help clear the cover. Three inches of available thread is awesome. I set the threaded inserts neutral after having the 1.25xthread OD thread engagement. Can adjust .65” in or out on one heim and not worry about shearing the threads.

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Ball-parking the tie rod length :flipoff2:

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Bc you know the current rates, you won’t need scales. Just measure the preload before install.

Check the bottom cap for factory valving numbers.

Very true. As a note I am curious to see what the total weight is. Note sure what sort of unsprung weight numbers I will see. Like everyone else I want to keep this light but I do enjoy the cozy interior. If it becomes a heavy pig so be it.

I’ll check the caps tonight.


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Bc you know the current rates, you won’t need scales. Just measure the preload before install.

Check the bottom cap for factory valving numbers.
I have some coilovers for Ghost just not the knowledge to install them and no springs..... What does this mean?
 
I have some coilovers for Ghost just not the knowledge to install them and no springs..... What does this mean?

Do what Mac said but with your current coils. Figure out what their spring rates are and measure how far they compress under full load from an unloaded height.




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I have some coilovers for Ghost just not the knowledge to install them and no springs..... What does this mean?

You take a known rate coil, measure amount compressed, this tells you sprung mass at the shock.

Helps to figure out what springs to use without scales or TRIG.

Shoot for 2” preload, but there are anomaly’s that happen with light sprung mass and heavy unsprung.

Most newer fox shocks have the factory valving engraved on the bottom cap. This usually lets you know the baseline valving and generally is a starting point to tune from.

Initially I would guess rebound is too firm lol.
 
Jeep building is hell.

Most tired I’ve been in a while. Tagged up the tie rod. Still hits the diff even with the low profile cover but only when turned driver.

Stuffed the front axle to get a taste of what is to come.

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Pull fenders. Seemed like a good idea.

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Yeah, steering gear will need to be pushed forward. Which will push the winch and bumper forward. Lots of drilling to come.

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Knuckles will need double shear welded in. For now it’s time to figure out spacing to stack the heims.

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:huggy:
 
I want to mount these coilovers so bad. Have to have a plan first!


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I want you to hurry up and complete this build so you can wheel again
 
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