Am I being a Dumbass?

I'd do it if I had longer to make the trip. Hammering it there and back would not be worth saving $1800 to me. If I had 2 or 3 weeks to meander there and meander back, it'd be a no brainer for me though.
 
One final productive thing to add.

If I understand correct the plan is to slide the chassis in the truck and strap it into the bed with the overhang cantilevered out the back...and the rack will not support or even touch the cantilevered Chasis it's just there to hold lights .

So then your fail points become the straps securing the Chad is, which you say you've covered through much redundancy. And the attachment points. I'd want to know where you plan to anchor those straps (please not the small integrated hold downs) and their capacity.

So far everyone is discussing worst case being losing your chassis load. I think worst case would be something that loses your chassis load AND damages your truck in the process.

Final random thought from me (for now) if needed can you lower your spare tire from under bed with cargo rack and chassis in place
 
Ron said:
if needed can you lower your spare tire from under bed with cargo rack and chassis in place
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That’s a damn good question! I hadn’t thought of that. I’ll test that out tomorrow and let you know.
 
BigBody79 said:
The small trailer from Lowe’s isn’t a bad idea.
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I’d never trust a Lowe’s trailer on micro bias tires at 80 for 3 days straight. Not to mention the extra expense of title/tax/tag. That’s money gone.

jeepinmatt said:
Craigslist trailer is fair game.
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I’d never trust somebody else’s junk. If I decide I need a trailer, it’ll be the one I own and have faith in.

49willys said:
What about mounting an axle and a hitch to the chassis, a few lights and flat tow it back.
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I feel like that’s begging for LEO’s attention. I also have no idea if it’s even legal. How is that not an unregistered, untitled, uninsured trailer? This is California after all.
 
Ron said:
And the attachment points. I'd want to know where you plan to anchor those straps (please not the small integrated hold downs) and their capacity.
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Yes, I plan to use all 4 factory installed anchor points along with all 4 strapping points on the RamBox rail (see picture below). That’s 8 anchor points. My philosophy is that I’m staying well under the beds capacity and should be fine dividing that ~1000 pounds 8 ways.
8CCC9BEC-D90F-400B-A977-EABC8FD0E876.jpeg
 
I would have no concern about using the factory anchor points. I've hauled taller, heavier things using the factory anchor points. Nor is the weight or weight position an issue. Honestly my only concern would be loading it without scratching the truck. After that, the rest is gravy.
 
:driver::driver:I’ve read most of the posts and saw where the idea was floated to fly out and rent a uhaul truck. That’s what I’d do, catch a one way flight out, Uber to uhaul, pick up chassis, and road trip home. You can go to the online sites and get an exact amount of the one way rental and number days allowed to get home. Would save on wear and tear on you just driving cross country once. Just a thought.
 
Buffy said:
:driver::driver:I’ve read most of the posts and saw where the idea was floated to fly out and rent a uhaul truck. That’s what I’d do, catch a one way flight out, Uber to uhaul, pick up chassis, and road trip home. You can go to the online sites and get an exact amount of the one way rental and number days allowed to get home. Would save on wear and tear on you just driving cross country once. Just a thought.
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15 foot truck $2301, plus plane ticket, plus gas. That’d cost the most by far.
 
49willys said:
What about mounting an axle and a hitch to the chassis, a few lights and flat tow it back. It looks like a well built machine, even if it flips on the highway it'd survive.
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This is a good idea. Make a basic T shaped trailer that you can sleeve together, disassemble and haul there then weld it when you pick up the chassis. Then weld the chassis to the trailer for transport. Once home back into the garage, cut the trailer loose.
 
Just have the guy you bought it from mount a axle in the chassis and put a tongue and lights on it and get a receipt that you just bought it and tow it home no problem. Show the police the receipt if they stop you for the chassis/trailer. Have fun on your trip.
 
My grandparents lived in CA. In 2002 my Grandpas health took a turn for the worse, so Dad flew out there and the rest of the family took the train. Once there we found out Grandpa needed to go to an assisted living facility, so we suddenly had a house we had to clean out and two vehicles we had to get back to NC. One vehicle was a half ton van, so we put a trailer hitch on it, bought a cheap single axle 4x8 trailer from Home Depot, loaded it full of crap, and took off for NC. Absolutely ZERO trailer problems on the way home. Still have the trailer, and the only thing we have had to do is put tires on it and change some light bulbs.

I love a good road trip, probably more than most, and my old man is probably one of THE most penny pinching tightwads to ever walk this earth, so he taught me how to stretch a dollar. I get not taking a trailer to save on fuel cost, and understand the worry of using a single axle trailer over such a distance. I'd start by seeing if Jody's shipping contacts could get it here cheaper, but if not then I wouldn't hesitate to drive out and back. But I'd either take a small trailer or buy one there and sell it when I get back.

But since your mind is made up to use just the truck, I'd ditch the rack and plywood and just stick a flag and maybe a reflective triangle on the end of the buggy. If they can't see that and your truck lights then nothing can help them.

Duane
 
49willys said:
What about mounting an axle and a hitch to the chassis, a few lights and flat tow it back. It looks like a well built machine, even if it flips on the highway it'd survive.
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Would this be any different than towing a pig cooker or wood splitter as far as legalities.
 
BigSouth said:
Yes, I plan to use all 4 factory installed anchor points along with all 4 strapping points on the RamBox rail (see picture below). That’s 8 anchor points. My philosophy is that I’m staying well under the beds capacity and should be fine dividing that ~1000 pounds 8 ways.
View attachment 285043
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As an owner of a ram with a ram box.....you have 4 bed anchor points (not 8). Those 4 adjustable plastic widgets attached to aluminum rail are not load bearing, they are meant to give you a place to snap a bungie net to keep cargo in.

Shouldn't you be on the road by now?
 
Upside down looks much more better! That'd definitely keep the tailgate closed and eliminate the need for the canoe rack.

WOD Haul Upside Down.jpg
 
shelby27604 said:
Those 4 adjustable plastic widgets attached to aluminum rail are not load bearing
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They aren't as strong as the 4 down low, but they're still an attachment point and will share the load. Why wouldn't I attach a strap to every single point available?

shelby27604 said:
Shouldn't you be on the road by now?
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Trip is planned for Friday, March 8th. Itinerary is already figured for 6 days with stopping points preplanned.
 
I wouldn't use the plastic points as load bearing anchors because if the load shifts it will snap / yank all of those widgets clean out of that aluminum channel. Might want to look at those points again, it is a captured bolt with a plastic T on one side and a knob on the other.

No worries man.....your rig, you should strap a go pro to the roof facing back....the footage might go viral.
 

@CasterTroy

You edited that yesterday! I remember because you’re first message said “Yes” and a couple hashtags I didn’t understand. :fuck-you:
 
LT1JEEP said:
why don't you turn it upside down in the bed and let the nose of the buggy stick over the cab
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You called it first. This is Plan A so far. Thanks!
 
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