Big John: 1972 C30 2WD dually w/ 11' dump bed

Discussion in 'Truck Gallery' started by Lurch830, Dec 3, 2018.

  1. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    While working on the wiring over the weekend, I started troubleshooting some issues...
    brake light circuit: there's a short somewhere that kills the engine when you put on brakes
    speedometer: its missing the inner wire...no wonder it doesn't work

    I also met up with the guy that gave me the fuel tank and I gifted him some home made adult beverages as a thank you. Also checked out his viper red '67 C10 since its finished (if you can ever call a project car that!). We traded ideas and he reminded me of The Truck Shop off Derita Rd in Concord which will probably be where I get the last few things I want for the C30's interior. Still have to find some wheels/tires & I'd like to put a 4.10/3.73 14 bolt with 13" drums under it. Also want to get a remote hood latch before I mount/wire the LED bar & make a grill for it.

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  2. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Been a little bit since I've updated this:
    New alternator fixed the shutting off when braking issue...I'm guessing the old alternator didn't have enough juice to run everything & I didn't have the battery hooked up.
    Wiring is coming along and hopefully should be finished this weekend.
    Picking up single piece wheels this weekend & most likely ordering tires.
    Picking up underbody toolboxes this weekend and hoping to get at least one mounted.

    Two questions:
    Does anyone have any experience with Deestone D503 tires? Since this is a budget build and I like the looks & price I'm leaning that way, but don't want to buy junk.
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    What the heck is this wire/sensor for? Its on the splitter/proportioning valve for the brakes and the wiring connector looks like a mini spark plug boot. I haven't traced it into the cab yet, but I know the new wiring harness doesn't have anything for it.
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    Last edited: Nov 20, 2019
  3. a_kelley

    a_kelley mechanical fixer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Location:
    Rutherfordton
    The wire off the prop valve is for the brake light - if one side of the hydraulics goes out, the valve shifts & shorts the pin to ground, activating the brake lamp in the cluster.
     
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  4. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Well the C30 has been parked in the hangar with the recent crummy weather & I didn't see the point of driving it only ~120 yards to Thanksgiving supper since it was at grandpa's house (not to mention parking beside 8 other vehicles). Traded the stock wheels with @Junkyard Dog for some single piece wheels & gave them a quick paint job. While the wheels are off, I'm gonna go through the brakes one more time and then it'll be road worthy!

    Next will be:
    Priming/painting more rust spots & the wheel wells
    Under body tool boxes mounted
    LED bar & DIY grill
    Remote hood latch
    Rifle rack & center console/cup holder
    Redo the exhaust
    Go through the hydraulics
    Possibly install a tach?
     
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  5. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Took a little break on "Big John" since everything was working & I saw two decent bucks before Christmas and put some hours in trying to put one or both in the freezer, but never saw either of them again! With my grandpa & dad telling me that they both remembered something wrong with one of the rear brakes (no fluid leaking & a good pedal), I went through the rear brakes over Christmas and the passenger side wheel cylinder was barely seeping fluid so I ordered 2 wheel cylinders, new hardware kits & new parking brake kits. Those came in while I was in SC visiting family during the end of the year & I got the crud from some family member(s) that hasn't figured out to STAY THE HELL HOME WHEN YOU'RE SICK!! Last weekend I was recovering from that instead of working on it so I didn't get anyone else sick.

    This past weekend I put on the new hardware & wheel cylinders and one of the nuts was seized on to the steel line & the other nut was rounded off so I ordered new steel lines. Went by the parts store & the guy said he ordered them, but couldn't find a record of it. So I opted for the universal lines and made them work (passenger side looks decent, driver side doesn't...6" too long). Bled the front brakes without any problems & put the single piece wheels/tires on. The studs are too short to put the chrome 'hub cap' & plate on...figured lugnut engagement is more importanter than putting chrome on a 50 year old truck! Went to bleed the rears & couldn't get air or fluid out of either side. Some troubleshooting later & I think the rubber hose that goes from the frame to the rear axle is collapsed/clogged/FUBAR'd somehow since I'm getting fluid before it, but nothing after it. So that has now been ordered & will be installed this coming weekend along with finishing up the wiring/LED bulbs in the dash & hopefully working on the under body tool boxes.
     
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  6. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Rain & cold does not make outside mechanic work any fun, so I didn't do much...got the new rear rubber line installed, rear brakes bled (2 small leaks...easily fixed), inner/outer axle nuts torqued, axles installed & rear wheels/tires installed (studs too short for chrome 'hub cap' & plate) over the weekend. Brakes are much better with 4 corners vs 2...even if 2 are drums!
     
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  7. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Most of rewiring up to this point has been planning where/how to run the new wire harness and figuring out all the lights/sensors since several use switched grounds and some stuff is missing/melted due to the fire.
    Over the weekend I got the wiring harness for the bed/headache rack/reverse camera/trailer pigtail made & pulled in to the cab. Probably going to add an 8 position terminal block to the firewall beside the master cylinder for all the lights to make future troubleshooting easier. Not a big fan of putting outside the cab & semi-exposed, but can't find a spot I like in the cab.
    Also removed the dash pad (falling apart), instrument panel & glove box liner (falling apart) to make rewiring/replacing easier & swapped the dash lights to LED. Need to decide if I want to add a tach in the dash ($200-$250), opt for a universal one mounted to the steering column ($50-$75) or just let it ride as is.
     
  8. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Got my list of interior parts to order ready as well as some advice on the C30 heater since it is apparently not the same as a C10.
    Terminal strip mounted on the firewall beside the master cylinder, bed lights terminated & tested.
    Holes drilled for the door switches & hood switch...need to figure out how I want to mount them for the underbody boxes.
    Old fuse block removed, new fuse block mocked up, new headlight & dimmer switches installed.
    Steering wheel disassembled, but I couldn't get it to budge with a hammer so I'll have to use a puller.
    The brake switch had a cross threaded nut and no room for tool access, so a long handled screwdriver and hammer made quick work since it was broken anyway.
     
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  9. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Could use some advice/help on adding some aux light switches...
    I need to add 2 switches for the front LED bar & the light(s) on the headache rack for the bed. I want to keep it retro/period correct, but don't want to cut up the dash on the off chance I ever decide to restore it. Thought about adding a switch panel and using bat toggle switches, but can't find anywhere I like easily within reach. When I pulled the instrument panel, I noticed two more switch locations just below the headlight & windshield wiper switches...thinking about adding another headlight switch below the existing one and using it for the aux lights, but I need to check to make sure it'd clear the headlight wiring. If I do decide to drill through the dash, they'd probably go above the PTO cable or choke cable. Thoughts? Suggestions?
     
  10. shelby27604

    shelby27604 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2013
    Location:
    Raleigh
    That generation truck came with ash tray and radio delete plates, you could grab one of those and use it as a base for your switch panel, if you put it back to stock, pull the plate and wiring abd you are back to stock.
     
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  11. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Since the weather cooperated this past weekend, I worked on the wiring, mocked up the underbody boxes and spent more time trying to get the steering wheel off than I'd care to admit. At least I got to witness a steering wheel puller rapidly disassemble itself! If the next session doesn't pay off, I'm at the point of BFH & sawzall and I'll just put in a new tilt column & steering wheel.

    Get out of my head! I was looking at it this weekend and felt dumb for not thinking of that earlier, but with the dash gutted my mind defaulted to keeping stuff away from the openings (instrument panel, glove box, ash tray & radio delete plate). I did find out there is not enough room to add another headlight switch under the existing one without modifying the wiring harness/connector.
     
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  12. Lurch830

    Lurch830 messin' with sasquatch

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2007
    Location:
    Wilton, NC
    Got a little bit of time to work on it over the weekend and picked up a 2/3 jaw gear puller to try and pull the steering wheel. It didn't budge it & I had to pull/disassemble the steering column and beat it off (that's what she said), but I'll be damned if I was going to let it beat me! There's a lot more room now which will make the wiring easier and I'll replace it with a tilt column & new wheel. Crazy what all had to be done just to get to the turn signal/hazard switches/harness. Switches didn't work, the bearings in the column were shot & the padding on the steering wheel was rough and what was left fell off when I tried the hammer method, so its all for the best.
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    I also realized the wiring kit I bought is universal instead of year specific like I thought (possible blessing in disguise since its a C30 & the harness is for a C10), so there will be a lot more crimping/soldering involved. Already added the cab clearance lights, bed courtesy light & 40" LED relays to the new harness, but haven't tested them yet. I also figured out what I'm going to do with the reverse camera monitor & bed/grill lights...if I can find some switches for a 1-1/16" hole, I won't even have to cut up the radio delete plate.
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