"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

marty79

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2013
Location
Newton, NC
Hey everyone, been gone a while taking time to get settled in to SC, starting over WHEW, and well finally have gotten me up and going with some funds to get another crawler built. Been a year since I last got to go and boy, i miss the heck out of it so here I go...hoping this XJ will be little better than the last!!
Just bought a 98 XJ 4.0 auto 231 runs and drives pretty good!! (has a title!!lol))hehe
just bought 78/79 D60/D44 combo 4:18geared from International Harvester i think
still searching for rims and tires...ideally would like 37s but 35-38s max is ideal
Going to go leaf springs front and rear so....no more "john fuller control arms:lol::lol:"" hahahaha i had to
D44 is pass drop so going to have to flip the 231 (no biggie) for now but perfect for a 231/300doubler down the road..
and hope to buy/build a cage for it also since everything from windows up I plan on taking off anyways.
Only thing I started so far is taking front clip off and the both fenders along with front bumper...all is perfect shape and finally smartened up to take em off to sell rather than chop it up...duhhh stupid, right?
Will need advise on doing the leaf spring setup for front from anyone with perches and steering stuff too. I bought 52" chevy leafs to use on front with 7" shackles hoping to net about 7"lift????
I'm shooting for 7-8" of lift so maybe someone knows better of what leaf/shackle combo to use. well that's enough to start this wagon so here's some pics of what I got so far....
 
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i'm sure many will wonder so I'll explain it now...the platform is 2x4 studs 4" on center with 3/4 osb floor sheeting...way way cheaper than concrete and holds up like a charm. I've had F550s on it to chance oil and brakes on 3 of them and not a single budge or mark so for those looking for cheap alternative to smooth floor to work on , this 10x20pad cost $326.00 in materials at Lowes. so that's that!!
 
Oh hell yeah!!! I (we'll) help you any way we can! I say ditch the 231 and go stock d300. I did it on my 96 with full width 9 and dodge 44.
Worked well. Since you're in SC now, I'm right down the road!
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SWEET!!! nice to see you again bud!! nice xj too. funds aren't there yet for a D300 as i still gotta get tires and wheels and figure out steering stuff...and would really like to chop it completely and cage it so gonna use 231 to start with and I've got my mind really set on a 231/300 doubler...YOU KNOW ME and doublers lol. I'm really really glad to know you're nearby, maybe with some others to invite over to work and feed everyone (beer too maybe?? i don't drink much but would happy to provide it) and hope to soon get to start on this. The rear shouldn't be an issue for myself...if I can move that heavy big by myself into place lol but front is where it's tricky...
for front: I want to re-weld/recenter the spring perches for great pinion angle with 7-8" of lift but the way the factory is set onto the pumpkin how will that work? and the steering shaft is drivers side of the axle and so is the gearbox so how will that work..this is new for me and haven't studied it much (super busy these days with full time job and now full time student WHEW) and now this project...I'm stressed just thinking about all this work lol but work is my middle name so I hope to finish it by April ride.........am I dreaming now?? haha
 
class starts at 9...so gotta go fellas until next time, peace and blessings everyone!!
 
IMG_3488.GIF With that being a low pinion front you can't just cut and move the perches for a better pinion angle as the axle will then be rolled to far forward which will mess with your steering geometry. Think of it this way, if you were to stand to the side of the knuckle (looking at the lockout hub) and draw a vertical line between the upper and lower ball joint the upper should be set back from the lower creating a line that is tilted back. This angle from true vertical is known as your caster angle. If it is too positive or too negative it will affect your steering characteristics. That axle was designed and built to be within a certain operating range (angle) find out what it is and stick as close to it as possible. Trust me you don't need that much lift to run 37's anyway. My XJ is only 4" in the air, on tons, and I have 37's. btw good luck with the leafs up front I'll be interested to see how you attack it!
 
With the length of the doubler, I think his driveshaft angle will be fine. Definitely no concern of binding. The rear will be significantly shorter but with leaf springs and a gas tank relocation, he can stretch it by a few miles.
 
I say round rollcage like the trampoline but DOM, I mean just bc you made that shit famous... And didn't you have a caterpillar radiator when I seen your jeep in mtn city? Redesign...
 
XJsavage said:
With the length of the doubler, I think his driveshaft angle will be fine. Definitely no concern of binding. The rear will be significantly shorter but with leaf springs and a gas tank relocation, he can stretch it by a few miles.
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I was thinking of putting plastic tank in the rear hatch closed in and moving axle back about 5" or so...good idea?
 
skyhighZJ said:
My XJ is only 4" in the air, on tons, and I have 37's. btw good luck with the leafs up front I'll be interested to see how you attack it!
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I would love a picture please just to give me idea of how that looks with only 4"lift...u still have fenders too? As far as leads upfront...new to me but surely its gotta be simpler than staying with the 4link geometry stuff..most setups I've seen are using lower ca mounts and front mounts come off the bumper.
 
Better think again about your T case idea.
You can't flip a transfer case that has a pump and a pickup tube. The 231, like other New Process/ New Venture cases, has a pickup tube attached to the pump. Once you flip.it, it can longer lubricate the internals.
You can flip a 300 since it's lubrication comes from the gears splashing gear oil throughout the inside of the case.

Just food for thought as I'm up pooping in the middle of the night.
 
On second thought since I'm not done yet...
If I were you, I would rethink the initial savings of that front with it's somewhat low gearing and go with a Ford high pinion front.
You will play hell trying to get decent driveline angles vs proper caster. Keep it drivers drop, use your existing transfer case and call it done. Add a flipped 300 behind what you have and you'll be all set
Look for a late 70s (77-79 F250 HP44)
Youll probably need to mill the pass knuckle for a high steer arm to get adequate steering angles too. Just food for thought to have an accurate budget for your build.

Glad to have you back man!
 
I agree with Jody. Don't try to flip the 231. And if you can get a drivers drop do it. I have a passenger front I my yj and I had to make a two piece driveshaft to get it around the starter. And not hit when flexed. As for rear Just raise gas tank into the floor and make bottom of tank flush with frame rails and you can move axle back all you want. But if you stay leafs you are not going to be moving it all that far anyways.
 
Listen to Bruiser. I would sell those axles and buy a high pinion drivers side front.
 
But HPD44's are pricier than pass drop and LP D44's, right? Get a D300 for about $250, sell the NP231 for $150, and then just bolt the D300 up. Clock it down a few degrees if the driveline angle is too much, or just don't lift it too high.
 
jeepinmatt said:
But HPD44's are pricier than pass drop and LP D44's, right? Get a D300 for about $250, sell the NP231 for $150, and then just bolt the D300 up. Clock it down a few degrees if the driveline angle is too much, or just don't lift it too high.
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But then the need for different driveshafts, exhaust and crappy driveline angles.
I get what you're saying, but in the end with what seems to be a budget build...
 
I'm in with the vote of sell those axles...but with a twist.

If you're dead set on leafs front and rear and want a "budget" build...
Leaf sprung 99+ superduty 60...$300-500 at most junk yards and about the same for a rear sterling with disc brakes if you shop around. Hell you might get a set of stock 17" steelies with the deal if you look hard enough. I know of a member on here that got his coil sprung 05+ set from LKQ for about $400. SD60 axles are a great value if you can bring yourself to get around the oddities when compared to a standard 60.

If you're going to have to build leaf spring mounts/hangers then who cares about the 38"ish wide perch in the front. If you can find a set of Ford steelies then the metric lug pattern worry is irrelevant and you could do a weld on bead lock later down the road. It will be a 17" wheel which will be more friendly for used tires in the 37-39" range these days.
 
StretchASU said:
I'm in with the vote of sell those axles...but with a twist.

If you're dead set on leafs front and rear and want a "budget" build...
Leaf sprung 99+ superduty 60...$300-500 at most junk yards and about the same for a rear sterling with disc brakes if you shop around. Hell you might get a set of stock 17" steelies with the deal if you look hard enough. I know of a member on here that got his coil sprung 05+ set from LKQ for about $400. SD60 axles are a great value if you can bring yourself to get around the oddities when compared to a standard 60.

If you're going to have to build leaf spring mounts/hangers then who cares about the 38"ish wide perch in the front. If you can find a set of Ford steelies then the metric lug pattern worry is irrelevant and you could do a weld on bead lock later down the road. It will be a 17" wheel which will be more friendly for used tires in the 37-39" range these days.
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This. Starting with newer parts that will be overkill. Doesn't break the bank, and will last you forever. When you go bigger tires just upgrade down the road.

My.02 is to keep coils in the front and just get marsfab long arm crossmember and get him or ironman4x4 to build some links.

This will keep it very streetable, and you won't have to redesign in the future to accommodate more wheeling.
 
Jody Treadway said:
But then the need for different driveshafts, exhaust and crappy driveline angles.
I get what you're saying, but in the end with what seems to be a budget build...
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Just cut the exhaust off at the header!
 
Kill it with fire!!!! No but really just realize what you want out of the rig and those superduty axles are stupid cheap. If you wanted to get fancy since you're a DIY guy. Buy a set of 8-170 to 8 on 6.5 adapters. Drill those holes into the flange of the unit bearing using the adapter to line it up, and then do the same for the rotors. New studs and bam 8 on 6.5 superduty axle. Then find you a dirt cheap 14 bolt rear with gears/Detroit, junk yard rotors turned/ junk yard calipers, new pads and you're on some beefy 1 tons with a common pattern. The 05-up ones are 35 spline throughout but you've got to hack off a lot of material for space to mount links/shock mounts. Hell I might buy some adapters and let you borrow one as long as you pay for shipping.


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