Got the short course racing itch?...

No dog in this fight, but I think the claimer idea and rigorous tech inspection is right on! It is really the only way to keep costs in check and should make for some competitive racing.
 
If Rangers have a foot ebrake pedal, just rig it up so it can't lock when depressed. JT's old Lincoln Town Car wouldn't lock the ebrake pedal when the transmission was put in Drive. That made for some fun times! 60mph backwards through the median on Bryan Boulevard, lol!
:lol: I've heard so many stories of that car I would give some damn good money for some dash cam videos from back then. I've been belly hurting laughing from them many times, you two are lucky to be alive:beer:
On the other hand, you all are lucky I work every other wknd and don't have time for this racing:flipoff2:
 
Are automatics going to be allowed? I can't drive a manual transmission.
 
Are automatics going to be allowed? I can't drive a manual transmission.

:flipoff2:fidiot you don't have to DRIVE it..you just have to RACE it. Big difference there.

Pretty sure manual is what the rules are..but I don't see why auto's are not allowed..we'll need some lame ducks to fill the field.
 
Any more updates, facebook page or what not? Would any of you be interested in getting these on a circle track? Thunder Valley Speedway in Lawndale said get in contact about running. Too bad its fords... i have a datsun 2wd truck waiting to be turned into something
 
Last edited:
Any more updates, facebook page or what not? Would any of you be interested in getting these on a circle track? Thunder Valley Speedway in Lawndale said get in contact about running. Too bad its fords... i have a datsun 2wd truck waiting to be turned into something
If you wanna race datsun's go to Japan this is 'murica.im just kidding but I am also looking for some updates when they become available
 
Up date!!!!


Weather permitting..I leave for VA in the morning to pick up the first NC bro-lite truck!

Go to Bro-lite page on the facebooks..rules are there.

Hope to have pics of my new truck very soon, so with no one posting pics of their truck..I guess I'll be first?:rockon:

@shawn and/or @trailhugger (once builds start and races are being planned)Would it be possible to get a ''bro-lite'' or another ''general comp'' section to post this stuff in? OR is chit chat the best place to be?

A ''general comp'' section could be handy for alot of stuff, not just bro-lites.
 
RULES
BRO LITE RULES found at www.broliteracing.com

Here are the official rules for the Bro Lite Race trucks and series. Please contact us if you have any questions or are uncertain if your actions meet the rules. We are running a gentlemans race, so the idea is to maintain even trucks and not take advantage of any unclear rules to give your own truck an advantage.

The Bro-Lite class is a short course off road racing class designed with two goals in mind: to find the best driver and to be affordable to a wide range of drivers. The platform was chosen based on an affordable, easy to find, and capable truck. The object is not to outsmart the rules or other drivers, but to win based on driver skill. Cheating is in no way in the spirit of the class and will NOT be tolerated. We hope to eliminate the “save the truck” mentality for drivers by giving any driver a chance to win every race. Hopefully these factors will all result in a spectator friendly, affordable, exciting, and competitive racing series.

1) General Specs:
-Ford ranger (1983-1997)
-2wd
-twin I-beam front suspension stock
-4 cyl.
-Manual trans
-any combination of body/bed style allowed (regular and extended cab, short and long bed)

2) Safety:
-All trucks must have a roll cage tied into the frame at the base of the A, B, and C pillars
-All trucks must have an X in the B pillar(may be outside of cab)
-A,B, and C pillars must be constructed of at least 1.5″x.120″ DOM or Chromoly tubing(no HREW, pipe, or conduit allowed)
-Anywhere that there is a bend over 15* in the A,B, and C pillars must have a gusset(4 corners of the windshield, top of b pillar behind cab, etc.)
-Cages must have 3 horizontal drivers side door bars
-Tubing with a smaller diameter or thinner than .120″ may be used for areas not mentioned above.
-Racing seats with 5-Point harness capability are required and must be authorized by a
race official (plastic bucket seats will not be allowed)
-5 point harnesses must be used. Harnesses must be in good working condition and be mounted properly.
-Must have a drivers side window net
-Windshield screen is allowed
-Fuel cell must be used. Fuel cell must have a fuel-bladder incased in steel or aluminum at least
16ga. Thick. Fuel cell vent must be routed in such a manner as to keep the fuel from escaping in event of a roll-over. Fuel cell must be mounted with 1 inch wide X 1/8 inch thick flat stock or better. Must have two straps going up and down and one side to side. Must be
fastened with a minimum 3/8” Grade 8 fasteners.
-Driveshaft must be painted white
-Driver door must be welded or bolted shut
-All fenders, hoods, doors, bedsides must be securely fastened with bolts with no sharp points in their mounting system.
-Dzus fasteners are NOT allowed for mounting body panels
-Bumpers must be of substantial material and may not be wider than the body panels. There can be no sharp edges or protruding points on the bumper.
-A master electrical shut off switch must be used and located in driver’s dash area in reach of
driver and accessible to corner/safety workers. Switch must turn vehicle off to pass tech inspection.
-A minimum of 2 fire extinguishers. A “Clean Agent” is an electrically non-conducting, liquid or gaseous fire extinguishing agent that DOES NOT leave a harmful residue(recommended).

3) Frame and Body
-Must use stock frame
-Frame must remain intact front to rear, unnecessary bracketry may be removed. Necessary brackets include: all stock cross members, all suspension, drive train, and body mounts. Rear cross member may be removed for fuel cell mounting but must be replaced with a cross member of equal or greater strength.
-Wheelbase may be shortened or lengthened to a length found in a stock configuration. e.g. if you have an extended cab long bed truck you may shorten it to the wheelbase of an extended cab short bed, regular cab long bed, or regular cab short bed truck. Any changes to wheelbase must be performed by moving the rear axle only. Front axle must stay in factory location. Stock hangers and shackles must be reused if the wheelbase is changed. Cross members may be changed for clearance if the wheelbase is changed, but the frame rails must remain stock. Any cross member that is removed or modified due to wheelbase change must be replaced or reinforced to stock strength or better.
-All glass must be removed
-All airbags must be removed.
-All stainless, plastic, glass, and die cast trim parts, lights, and moldings removed from inside and outside of the truck including tailgate
-Plastic grille may be used securely fastened to truck
-Dash may be removed
-The body must keep its stock appearance; the body must stay in its stock location on frame.
-Stock RUBBER body mounts may be replaced with any material.
-Truck bedsides may be cut off and the rest of the bed discarded.
-Front inner fenders and core support may be removed
-Radiator must be in stock location.
-Hood must be in stock location, no lowering the front for visibility
-Up to 2″ of fender well opening may be removed and fenders may be flared out an additional 2″ for tire clearance
-Fiberglass fenders and bedsides are allowed

4. Suspension
-Front suspension must retain stock i beams from any year ranger mounted in stock fashion with stock bushings
-Radius arms must be stock with stock style rubber bushings
-Front lower shock mounts must remain in stock location, shock length is open but they may not protrude through the hood
-Front springs may be stock or aftermarket as long as they mount in the stock location
-Shocks are limited to one per corner, up to 2.625″ with remote reservoir, no bypasses
-Steering linkage must remain stock and in the stock locations. May be gusseted or reinforced as necessary
-Steering quickeners are allowed
-All suspension components may be gusseted and reinforced as necessary
-Rear leaf spring hangers, shackle hangers, and shackles may be replaced with fabricated components but must retain stock dimensions. Stock hangers and shackles may be gusseted/reinforced as needed
-Shackle flips are allowed
-Rear leaf springs must retain stock main leaf, other leaves may be added and removed as required.
-Rear lower shock mount may be relocated to the top of the U bolt plate.
-U bolt plate may be replaced with a flat steel aftermarket plate
-Rear shock travel is unlimited
-Rubber or polyurethane bump stops allowed
-No secondary suspensions can be used
-Limit straps allowed

5. Engines
-Must remain stock 2.3 or 2.0
-May swap engines from different years
-tubular style stock exhaust manifold may be used on trucks that did not come with it.
-All external engine accessories must remain stock (computer, carb, ignition, etc.)
-AC may be removed.
-Emissions equipment may be removed
-Stock air box may be removed and replaced with a K&N style filter
-Engine must remain in stock location but engine mounts may be replaced with aftermarket style mounts.
-Factory OEM block and head(s) must be used and may not be modified.
-All engine internal parts must remain stock or OEM replacement.
-Exhaust system is open.
-No “power adders” are allowed; Nitrous Oxide, turbo, superchargers etc.

6. Drive train
-Transmission must be stock, may not be internally modified for weight reduction or shifting easier.
-Transmission mount may be reinforced or replaced with aftermarket style mounts.
-Differentials are open, carriers may be welded.
-Ring and pinion ratios are open.
-Rear axle housing may be gusseted or trussed, unused brackets may be removed.
-Brakes must remain stock

7. Weight
-To be determined(no minimum weight requirements)

8. Tires and Wheels
-Any size tire is allowed
-Any size wheel is allowed
-Wheels may be aluminum or steel
-Beadlocks are not allowed
-Tires and wheels must be in good shape
-Hub caps and wheel covers must be removed
-Inner tire liners may not be used

9. Claim Rule
-To be discussed (To be added at a later date, if unfair advantage become apparent)
 
Thanks for posting this. Few questions for those in the know.

- Cages must have 3 horizontal drivers side door bars
- Driver door must be welded or bolted shut
-The body must keep its stock appearance; the body must stay in its stock location on frame.

Reading it is inferred that the door must remain on the vehicle and 3 "door bars" need to be inside the door.
Are both of these statements accurate. I.E can door bars replace the door if not can the door bars be ex to the body.

Rangers are narrow as is for wider shoulder guys any cab room I can scavenge I will.


-Front suspension must retain stock i beams from any year ranger mounted in stock fashion with stock bushings

By any year do we mean any year between 83-97?
Without doing any research I know in the late 60s the Ranger was an F-100 TTB front end for Ford...not sure if these components provide any advantage but maybe...

- Must remain stock 2.3 or 2.0
- May swap engines from different years
-All external engine accessories must remain stock (computer, carb, ignition, etc.)

Just to clarify. If I put lets say a 97 motor in an 83 chassis...the stock fuel and spark system from the 97 can be put into the 83 car, right?



As of last night there is a Ranger in my shop...
Need to know where I am going before I start.

Especially the first question regarding doors/door bars. If someone could answer that this weekend it would be much appreciated.


@Dylan W. @Will Carter
 
Thanks for posting this. Few questions for those in the know.



Reading it is inferred that the door must remain on the vehicle and 3 "door bars" need to be inside the door.
Are both of these statements accurate. I.E can door bars replace the door if not can the door bars be ex to the body.

Rangers are narrow as is for wider shoulder guys any cab room I can scavenge I will.

Shift the seat an inch or 2 to the right, and pushing the door bars out board some , will help make a lil' more room. I dont see any advantage s gained or lost by exo ing the door bars either..aside from gaining the shoulder room you require.

By any year do we mean any year between 83-97?
Without doing any research I know in the late 60s the Ranger was an F-100 TTB front end for Ford...not sure if these components provide any advantage but maybe...

Im guessing that using 60 model parts will be a no go.

Just to clarify. If I put lets say a 97 motor in an 83 chassis...the stock fuel and spark system from the 97 can be put into the 83 car, right?

Thats the tricky part...we are still deciding if the NC brolites will allow for carbs to be used in place of fuel injection,our idea is that it will make engine swaps more simple..Like swapping a 4 banger into a 6 cyl model

As of last night there is a Ranger in my shop...oh heck yeah...you're kidding me right?:bounce:
Need to know where I am going before I start.

Especially the first question regarding doors/door bars. If someone could answer that this weekend it would be much appreciated.


@Dylan W. @Will Carter

I'm not the official decider though. @Will Carter needs to chime in!
 
Ron I would imagine you could cut the inner part of the door to push the door bars out some but leave the outer skin on the truck.


As is in order to get my left shoulder out of the door and get a suspension seat in there I am inboarding the seat 4" Which puts the Right edge of the wheel in the center of my chest...ok but not ideal. Thats with the door and no bars.

Maybe Im just too big to race these.
 
As is in order to get my left shoulder out of the door and get a suspension seat in there I am inboarding the seat 4" Which puts the Right edge of the wheel in the center of my chest...ok but not ideal. Thats with the door and no bars.

Maybe Im just too big to race these.

You must be this small to ride( ) hellz yeah, thats a first!

Ron you just gotta roll like the mailman!
 
I'm spending this year building up my resources, fixing my existing shit and selling it so I can get in on this next year once it is going strong...
 
No Ron you cut the inner part of the door out so you can put the door bars "inside" the door and keep the seat in its original position.
As is in order to get my left shoulder out of the door and get a suspension seat in there I am inboarding the seat 4" Which puts the Right edge of the wheel in the center of my chest...ok but not ideal. Thats with the door and no bars.

Maybe Im just too big to race these.
 
I think he's saying that weather it's the door trim or the door bars..it's still occupying the space that his shoulders need. In other words, I think his door needs to be wider than anyone else..which I think would be just fine if he had it fabbed up to fit him.
 
Back
Top