Got the short course racing itch?...

there should be enough local dirt circle tracks that would let ya come run on friday nites or such.... no jumps but fast and door banging.
That's been my thought all along. Would have been great for ECORS as well. Basically like TORC did at the Charlotte dirt track.
 
As for the motors and keeping things even. Ya'll do realize the early four bangers in these were highly buildable and the same blocks used in some roundy round 4cylinder classes that will scream. I have a friend who raced one of these in a 4cylinder dirt class that ran just around 7k in cost and she would turn. So saying that and racing is about finding the untold advantage how does the stock motor stuff play in? I guess my real question is (since I've never race anything but bikes) is how do you regulate or enforce stuff like that? And please answer with detail like your talking to a newb cause that what I am on this end.... aside from its sounds cammed up or spins all day at 5 grand and stays together. Not that wringing horsepower out of the unit is going to make you a winner, but overall how does tech work. Visual, tear down, displacement test? Or hell lets just have fun!
 
Claimer rule. Working on the wording and specifics but the gist of it is that anyone currently racing in the series can buy your engine (long block, valve cover to oil pan but no manifolds or covers) for about $1500. This gives you $1200 to go to the parts store on Monday and buy a new reman long block and pay your favorite mechanic $300 to stick it back in for you. So go ahead and bring that $10k screamer. I'd like to have one for $1500. Don't agree to sell your engine after the race? Don't plan on racing BroLites anymore.
 
cool, I didn't under stand what that was fully in the earlier discussion, I had an idea it would work that way......this is getting better by the day.
 
As for tech inspections (other than obvious safety stuff pre race) I could see making the podium finishers "Spin the wheel of technical inspections!" featuring inspection selections such as intake manifold, transmission gears (making sure you have them all), wheel travel, weight, rev limiter, carb and throttle body, ride height...amongst others.
 
Just for the sake of conversation

So the talk is of trying to keep trucks close to 5 k in total costs.

Initial tuck price
cage
fuel cell
seat/harness
bumpers
cheap spec tires
possibly ''spec''shocks

I'm just rambling here, but as we discuss this stuff, i wonder about a couple things that cost a lil' more, but would make the racing sooo much more exciting.

Spend a lil money on an E-brake set up of some type. Hopefully this wont be very expensive and will provide for some better action and racing.(I think Will is looking into this)

Another idea that will make racing better, but also comes at a price, is the ability to re-gear the rear end. I am not familiar with what gears come in the 4 banger, but i can only imagine how much better the racing could be, if can get those little trucks to wind up quicker on the track.


In short...I can see some money being spent on the trucks , just to make them funnerer to drive and watch. At the same time, I guess it'd still be a fun race, even without these performance enhancing doo dads.
 
If the rules limit you to the stock 7.5 rear end (which I believe they do), then you're limited to no lower than 4.56s.
 
If the rules limit you to the stock 7.5 rear end (which I believe they do), then you're limited to no lower than 4.56s.


I'd guess in first gear the 4.56's would be low enough. Really dont see third gear being used much at the ure track. So maybe the gears wont be that big of a deal, performance wise.

But the Ken Block E-brake should be a must..that or what Will and I talked about with a proportioning valve set to mostly rear biased.

We wanna be able to make these things rotate well. Right?
 
thought I read that regearing the axle was open as well as locking the axle? Without locker/welding the axle and gearing I don't know how much fun is to be had
 
If the rules limit you to the stock 7.5 rear end (which I believe they do), then you're limited No lower than 4:56s


I read this again..

So, if the phrase '' no lower than'' means that one COULD SWAP a higher gear out to a lower 4;56s...

Then my point is, if we allow any gear swapping AT ALL, then there is no real purpose of limiting the ratio of said gears.
If the money is being spent..

On the other hand, if all these 4 bangers came with the same rear gears..then no problem!
 
a lot had 4.10 or 3.73, remember they ain't torque monsters.
 
I have no idea what the stock ratio was... but I wouldn't be surprised to see anywhere from 3.07 to 4.10. I dunno what the ideal ratio for one would be, without getting out and driving it a little. At a certain point, you're just driving a stick shift, so as long as you have a low enough gear to get decent RPMS in the slowest corner on the track, it really doesn't matter.
 
That said, if the truck I get comes with 3:73 and yours in 4:10 and you continue to beat me off the line and off the corner...I'd guess I'd wanna even it up and swap gears.So I could match you at least. Well...if I spend $ on that, then why not be able to pick any ratio.
 
I have no idea what the stock ratio was... but I wouldn't be surprised to see anywhere from 3.07 to 4.10. I dunno what the ideal ratio for one would be, without getting out and driving it a little. At a certain point, you're just driving a stick shift, so as long as you have a low enough gear to get decent RPMS in the slowest corner on the track, it really doesn't matter.
Yea what he said. With a 5 speed and no low range in don't see a 3.55-4.56 being that much different for a relatively flat track. One may run 2-3 gear the other may predominantly run 1-2. To be honest. I expect to see traction being a big enough problem that you'll want to stud the tires before you are ever thinking about wanting a lower gear. Leaf springs, no traction bar, small tires and sprung over. These things will probably be accustom to wheel hop and u joint failures too. Spinning the driveshaft even faster with low gears won't help that at all.
 
I see yall's point. But I am also thinking about perfect conditions on a tacky track, which probably wont happen often anyway.

So..which is better, studded tires and max traction, or being able to make wheelspin when needed as far as drifting a corner goes?

Or would a turn consist of e-brake to rotate, then heavy on the throttle off?

I love daydreaming of actual track action!!

I wish we could race on an ice track:rockon:
 
With a manual transmission AND no power you should still have no trouble on dirt getting wheel spin. I don't care how fast you're going. The rear brake thing is over rated. Coming into a corner, downshift hard and braap the throttle and you're sideways. No need for fancy brakes.
 
I respectfully disagree about the brakes. There is nothing like using the rear brakes to help start a rotation.
Down shift during that initial rotation followed closely by throttle response, whether a braap or foot to the floor.

The more choices/tools you have on how to steer the truck, as a driver, the better

But I do agree with ya about the truck making tire spin on dirt.
 
I respectfully disagree about the brakes. There is nothing like using the rear brakes to help start a rotation.
Down shift during that initial rotation followed closely by throttle response, whether a braap or foot to the floor.The more choices/tools you have on how to steer the truck, as a driver, the better

This plus if it is an option it will be fun to see each person's driving styles and what works on different tracks/track conditions.
 
For this type of racing where the top speeds are relatively low, I would think the lowest rear end gear possible would be the best. It would decrease the gaps betwen each gear in the transmission allowing you to stay more in the meat of the power curve for better acceleration out of the various corners.
 
If Rangers have a foot ebrake pedal, just rig it up so it can't lock when depressed. JT's old Lincoln Town Car wouldn't lock the ebrake pedal when the transmission was put in Drive. That made for some fun times! 60mph backwards through the median on Bryan Boulevard, lol!
 
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