Got the short course racing itch?...

Chris, Rockauto's price on the in-tank pump alone (no strainer/fuel gauge/manifold/etc) is in the neighborhood of $40-60 for Airtex, Delphi, Bosch, etc.

The late-80s EFI ones had the same low pressure in-tank/high pressure on the rail setup that the fullsize trucks had. And it looks like anything with a 2.0L (87 or older) is carbed with a mechanical pump on the block.
 
the stock pumps on these are just like my 4wd, low pressure in tank, high pressure on the rail. V6 and 4 cyl are the same. Tank has standard mesh filter, rail has in line rather larger filter(which I liked). I built a custom cell for mine and replaced the rail pump with the real common one found in F150's that a lot of people run on buggies. Worked fine and doesn't have a in tank unit for the cell. I'll try to get the part numbers I think its produced by several vendors. It was common at auto zone or advance. As a mater of fact it was installed in a creek at mt city when the stocker blew chunks.

what does novocayne mean by a claimer rule?? I don't get the lingo.
 
At this point I'm looking at a package that will include....

Full in cab cage (1.75" .120 dom and 1.5" .090 dom) and to the rear frame rails with points for long travel shocks, seat and harness mounted
shock mounts for the axle and cage to be mounted where they work for your chosen shocks
8 gallon bladder fuel cell and mounted between the frame rails behind the rear axle
fuel pump and filter
hooking up new fuel system to existing plumbing
prp hi back suspension seat
Crow 3" 5 point harness
4 31" general grabber mt's
steering wheel with quick release
weld the rear axle.

It looks like this could be done for around 3500-3700 bucks. You would bring me the truck after you have stripped the interior and gutted the doors, removed the glass and any thing else in the way. I'll build and install all of this stuff and you'd pick it up needing paint and shocks. Obviously guys are gonna want to remove the bed floor and skin the bedsides and stuff like that so I can add mounts for bedsides off the cage if necessary or anything else you'd just have to let me know.

This should hopefully keep the overall cost at or below the 5k mark. I'm open to more suggestions on what parts you guys would want as some have dealt with some they prefer over others. Once we lock in a list that works for sure I'll get a definite price.
 
claimer rule keeps people from spending the farm on a ''cheap'' race rig. If the claimer rule price is set at 2500 bucks or 5000 dollars, it would discourage anyone from spending way to much on a truck, because someone could ''claim'' it and buy it for the set ''claimer'' price. Therefore. supposedly keeping the cost to race at a minimum.

Other variations include Engine claimer races, designed to keep anyone from buying a rousch yates motor or spending alot.

Really just designed to keep cost down and fun up!
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
the stock pumps on these are just like my 4wd, low pressure in tank, high pressure on the rail. V6 and 4 cyl are the same. Tank has standard mesh filter, rail has in line rather larger filter(which I liked). I built a custom cell for mine and replaced the rail pump with the real common one found in F150's that a lot of people run on buggies. Worked fine and doesn't have a in tank unit for the cell. I'll try to get the part numbers I think its produced by several vendors. It was common at auto zone or advance. As a mater of fact it was installed in a creek at mt city when the stocker blew chunks.

what does novocayne mean by a claimer rule?? I don't get the lingo.
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Does your cell have a bottom sump. Most guys have trouble pulling from the top of a bladder tank like this with an e2000 (I'm assuming that's the pump your talking about maybe)
 
claimer rule...usually in racing on the motor, is supposed to keep people honest and not sink too much cash into the motor (or entire rig as novocayne suggested). At the end of the race, the top finishers are subject to the claimer rule...anyone can pony up the cash for the claimer rule, I think $1200 was posted up earlier in this thread for the motor. Pay the cash stated in the claimer rule, bring home the motor for yourself.
 
MarsFab said:
At this point I'm looking at a package that will include....
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No bumpers, no nerf bars, no tube work forward of the A-pillar?

Doors skinned and bolted on?

RenegadeT said:
claimer rule...usually in racing on the motor, is supposed to keep people honest and not sink too much cash into the motor (or entire rig as novocayne suggested). At the end of the race, the top finishers are subject to the claimer rule...anyone can pony up the cash for the claimer rule, I think $1200 was posted up earlier in this thread for the motor. Pay the cash stated in the claimer rule, bring home the motor for yourself.
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Yeah, the Lucas series got rid of their claimer rule, but it was a little more restrictive than that. The claimant had to finish in the top ten, vehicle being claimed had to finish in the top 5 in at least two races, had to make the claim w/in fifteen minutes of the end of the race, etc.
 
shawn said:
Yeah, the Lucas series got rid of their claimer rule, but it was a little more restrictive than that. The claimant had to finish in the top ten, vehicle being claimed had to finish in the top 5 in at least two races, had to make the claim w/in fifteen minutes of the end of the race, etc.
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I actually think thats very fair.
Think about it.
Have to finish in the Top 10, so you cant show up having never raced and buy the best car on the track and get all the R&D.
Make it finish Top 5 twice so if you uild a rocket you get to enjoy it twice.
And 15 minutes..the idea is to get everthing that was on it before the builder take shis high $$$ parts off.

When my firend's son raced karts their claimer was $1,000 (I think or maybe it was $500) AND your kart.

Watched a kid who could flat out turn a wheel whip a rich kid's grandson in a heat, and grandpa stepped in and claimed the kart (took an hour of arguing, first time anyone had seen a claim after a heat but no rule prevented it) Grandson finished 2nd 2/3rds of a lap ahead of 3rd and a 1/2 lap behind 1st

Strapped grand boy in the kart in the main and the winner of the heat won the main in the forfeited kart.
 
Yeah, but either way.... I think the whole discussion detracts from what's really more important:

Get a bunch of cars that are more or less the same.

Get together on a regular basis.

Race your friends.

Drink beer and talk shit.

Scott's got a point... but if you're basically restricting it to "stock" parts... set minimum weight and max wheel travel... then go race for a karate kid trophy.... there's no big money at stake aside from maybe side bets or a purse pool. There's not much benefit in cheating... especially when everybody's going to call you out on the internets. :flipoff2:

And if there's anything I've learned from watching a bunch of ECORS racing over the last few years, it's that fast cars aren't enough to win. You've got to have a well-prepped car. You've got to be able to drive. You've got to make the car last. You've got to have a lot of good luck. And you've got to be able to keep your head in the middle of a race. Can't tell you how many times I've seen somebody's junk dragged out of the woods because the driver did something stupid.

Coming to the line with an extra 20hp isn't going to make up for any of that.
 
And hey, @Ron ... I know you're not involved in ECORS anymore, but until @rockcity shows back up... how did the AA entry fees work? Wasn't that supposed to be a trophy class? Just thinking that if a bunch of bro-lite cars show up at an ECORS race, they get the benefit of having paramedics, corner volunteers, etc on hand. Throw some entry fee money at that to cover the overhead. Maybe do some side bets, then go racing. Trying to figure out how much that would cost.
 
Rear crash bar will likely be part of the deal. From firewall forward I can't say yet because I haven't had one in front of me to see what it'll take.
 
MarsFab said:
At this point I'm looking at a package that will include....

...
Click to expand...

Looks like Chris has a pretty good formula there. I like the idea of 1 3/4 x 120 cages. Bro lite allows smaller tubing (1.5 x .120) Might consider, would Bro Lite allow your larger tube rig to run if you go run in their series?) I believe 1.5 x 120 would be strong enuff to protect a driver, but in a moderate crash I'm sure it would sacrifice itself, requiring a lot of repair to the cage.

I'm not aware of any bladder type fuel cell having a bottom sump? About all of your drag and circle track style plastic fuel cells have bottom sumps.

On another note...

Be careful on the "anyone can pony up the cash". IMCA had issue with this. People running junk motors in the back (or worse, had cars sitting in their garages!) were claiming a top three motor. (They had an $800 engine claim back then, which was a bit less than half of what you could put together a decent, sound SBC!) If I remember... I think they solved it by 'only the top three', (maybe top 5?), could claim each others motors.

Claiming the whole truck is a thought, if the build can be kept around 5K. (10k claimers dont work because the average Joe hasn't got access to 10K!)
 
MarsFab said:
Rear crash bar will likely be part of the deal. From firewall forward I can't say yet because I haven't had one in front of me to see what it'll take.
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Yeah, I figured you didn't have all the particulars worked out yet. Just wanted to be sure I understood where the goal posts were at present.

I sent a PM on Facepages to the Bro Lite people, asked what they did up front. I believe the front coil buckets on those trucks are really similar to what was on the F-150 back then... so it's got a coil up front and a shock in the back, all in a stamped steel bucket. Pretty similar to what's under a TJ, actually. If that's the case, then you've got to cut that coil bucket in half, plate off the back side of it, then build a new shock mount up higher somewhere with maybe a 10" or 12" shock.
 
shawn said:
Yeah, but either way.... I think the whole discussion detracts from what's really more important:

Get a bunch of cars that are more or less the same.
Get together on a regular basis.
Race your friends.
Drink beer and talk shit.
Scott's got a point... but if you're basically restricting it to "stock" parts... set minimum weight and max wheel travel... then go race for a karate kid trophy.... there's no big money at stake aside from maybe side bets or a purse pool. There's not much benefit in cheating... especially when everybody's going to call you out on the internets. :flipoff2:
...
Coming to the line with an extra 20hp isn't going to make up for any of that.
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Just addressing the fact that racing is competetive. Sadly, so many will cheat to win. I know of too many instances where Ego dictated what someone would spend to win, not the payout. Not meaning to be a distraction. Just suggestions drawn from 30 years in racing. To try to nip as much as that as you can in the bud.

I agree. If this kind of racing could be reality, I would enter it myself. I tired of the constant tweaking to gain an edge! It would genuinely be fun!

And yes...among a group of decent drivers in well prepped 100 hp cars,...20 hp is the world!
 
Wanna make it interesting? Everybody shows up with their rig and it gets a number. All the numbers get thrown in a hat, and you draw a number from the hat to determine which rig you drive.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Wanna make it interesting? Everybody shows up with their rig and it gets a number. All the numbers get thrown in a hat, and you draw a number from the hat to determine which rig you drive.
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Meh.... would be really easy to sabotage your own car. And who fixes it when somebody else wads it up?
 
jeepinmatt said:
Wanna make it interesting? Everybody shows up with their rig and it gets a number. All the numbers get thrown in a hat, and you draw a number from the hat to determine which rig you drive.
Click to expand...

HE HE HE...I was thinking the same thing. Like IROC racing. Or do like Bruton did with the legends cars. He builds em all and you must buy from him!

But Shawn is right. Opens a whole new can o worms!
 
shawn said:
And hey, @Ron ... I know you're not involved in ECORS anymore, but until @rockcity shows back up... how did the AA entry fees work? Wasn't that supposed to be a trophy class? Just thinking that if a bunch of bro-lite cars show up at an ECORS race, they get the benefit of having paramedics, corner volunteers, etc on hand. Throw some entry fee money at that to cover the overhead. Maybe do some side bets, then go racing. Trying to figure out how much that would cost.
Click to expand...

AA came about after I left. But the idea was $50/head trophy to the winner series makes cash and attracts new racers.
 
shawn said:
Meh.... would be really easy to sabotage your own car. And who fixes it when somebody else wads it up?
Click to expand...
Seems like it would add to the fun factor. But yeah, who would foot the bill for the carnage?
 
once saw a track where the audience could claim the car for a grand.....saw lots of guys swapping cars in that place.
 
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