Hardbody SAS

That one looks pretty good to me, better than the ones I laid down today. You get them dialed In right they weld pretty good.
Thanks, but like you said its just that one :D, i found out that im not to good at the butt welds yet, as you can see in the second picture, but i just ned to practice more.
 
spring hangers tacked in, i dont think im goin to go duoble shackle, it looks like the single shackle is a perfect set up and i know its reliable, compared to the double shackle.
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Thanks man, i cant wait to get out there again, i havent been wheeling in 2 years ever sence i started the SAS, it sucks!
You have a SAS hardbody too, right?

I do, its a '97 4-banger...the electric fan is louder than the motor!
It took 3 weekend work-marathons to get mine SAS'd with a buddy, his dad & me working on it.

It'll be at 4 wheel parts on South Blvd in Charlotte this weekend for their March Madness sale if you want to take a look...

v ignore the horribly-worn bald tires & unpainted rusty metal...
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sick! What front springs are you useing?
I'm using my stock rears up front (RUF) like the toyotas do when they go SAS, but I kept the add-a-leafs from my 3" suspension lift to keep everything level.
Its the calmini spring hanger up front and I think all my other brackets were bought from ruffstuff to keep bracket fabbing down to a minimum during the work weekends.

Before I took on my SAS, I read any and all Nissan SAS forum threads I could find.
Check out Barry @ NissanNut.com; he's got great info on his projects, used to be a Nissan mechanic, and has helped me out on several things (just an all around great guy).

Also, these sites are great 'Datsun' references:
NOAS4x4club.com
nissan4wheelers.com
nissanoffroad.net

Also, pirate4x4 has great info, but have your flame suit on!
 
What axle is that lurch? What wms to wms measurement you have?
Its a D44 I pulled from an '89 Grand Wagoneer at the pull-a-part in Charlotte. WMS it 60.5" IIRC
That axle is close to being the same length as the rear axle (stock H233B), and I'm using 1.5" spacers at all 4 corners.
 
Before I took on my SAS, I read any and all Nissan SAS forum threads I could find.
Check out Barry @ NissanNut.com; he's got great info on his projects, used to be a Nissan mechanic, and has helped me out on several things (just an all around great guy).
Yea Barry helped me with my questions too, like you said he a great guy and if your trying to SAS any nissan his website is a must.
Those rears look flexy, how do you compare them to waggy springs? Flex better or not? Arent they the same width?
Another question i have for you, where did you get the gears for you h233b? And was it worth re-gearing compared to swaping in a different rear end?
OH and are you using the double shackle in the rear w/63"s or single shackle
What axle is that lurch? What wms to wms measurement you have?
I am also using a waggy dana 44, make sure to get the one with OUT the vacc. disconnect.
 
got the hangers and the sliders welded up now i gotta find a bushing for one of the springs and probley put an add-a-leaf on both sides a the overload leaf and it will be done.
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Also im thinkin about runninmy exhaust through the bed like this...what do you guys think?
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Yea Barry helped me with my questions too, like you said he a great guy and if your trying to SAS any nissan his website is a must.
Those rears look flexy, how do you compare them to waggy springs? Flex better or not? Arent they the same width?
Another question i have for you, where did you get the gears for you h233b? And was it worth re-gearing compared to swaping in a different rear end?
OH and are you using the double shackle in the rear w/63"s or single shackle

I never ran the waggy springs, so I can't answer those questions...

I got the gears from a Nissan Junkyard in the Concord area. The guy's shop/jy is down the street behind the Lowes across the street from Concord Mills (on the right if you're going away from Lowes). Can't remember the name or a number, but I bought an entire rear axle from a 2004 Xterra (IIRC 2000-2004 had 4.9 gears from the factory) for $300 & scrapped the rest. I think the swap was worth it for the $$$, plus I think its kinda trick to have a pure Nissan axle (discs from a V6 pathy, gears from a Xterra & stock housing). That being said with 36" tires, I can't use 5th gear without a tailwind going downhill! If I break an axle, I'll use that as an excuse to go bigger & 5.XX gears...

I'm using teraflex revolver shackles in the rear that I had from the 3" suspension lift, I'm happy with them...



I don't know about the exhaust idea you've got...it would look pretty mean with some polished tips. But keep in mind how much stuff you throw in the bed and how much bed space you'll loose...that and any rain that could get into the exhaust while its just sitting outside.
 
Hey Lurch when you did your Dual cases you used a 720 divorced case correct? What did you do for your first case. Just keep the stock tx-10 range box or what? Thanks Dylan.
 
Hey Lurch when you did your Dual cases you used a 720 divorced case correct? What did you do for your first case. Just keep the stock tx-10 range box or what? Thanks Dylan.

No sir....I went all out and ordered NorthWestFab's TX-10 to D300 adapter & reverse cable shifters.
Modified the TX-10 to be a range box (found a write-up online) & bought a twin-sticked D300 that I 'flipped' to be drivers side drop.
If I ever win the lottery, I'll put a 4 speed atlas in the back!

I love the look I get from the inspection places when they climb up and see 3 unmarked shifters in the floor board!
 
Oh ok yeah that northwestFab adapter is hot shit. Thats the way I am thinking of going sometime Thanks.
 
I never ran the waggy springs, so I can't answer those questions...

I got the gears from a Nissan Junkyard in the Concord area. The guy's shop/jy is down the street behind the Lowes across the street from Concord Mills (on the right if you're going away from Lowes). Can't remember the name or a number, but I bought an entire rear axle from a 2004 Xterra (IIRC 2000-2004 had 4.9 gears from the factory) for $300 & scrapped the rest. I think the swap was worth it for the $$$, plus I think its kinda trick to have a pure Nissan axle (discs from a V6 pathy, gears from a Xterra & stock housing). That being said with 36" tires, I can't use 5th gear without a tailwind going downhill! If I break an axle, I'll use that as an excuse to go bigger & 5.XX gears...

I'm using teraflex revolver shackles in the rear that I had from the 3" suspension lift, I'm happy with them...
I don't know about the exhaust idea you've got...it would look pretty mean with some polished tips. But keep in mind how much stuff you throw in the bed and how much bed space you'll loose...that and any rain that could get into the exhaust while its just sitting outside.
thanks for answering my questions but heres one more, are you running a 1 piece shaft in the rear or 2? and if your running a one piece what all did you have to do?
 
I've got a 1-piece shaft in the rear.
I extended the stock driveshaft 4"....pulled a junkyard driveshaft from an explorer, cut it, sleeved the inside with carboard tube & outside with angle to get everything in-line, welded it all up & painted. Its not 100% true & I get some vibrations at ~60mph, but this thing is trailered 90% of its life so that doesn't bother me.

I'll put a plug for Beard Built Shafts (lbyota on here), he built my front driveshaft and its beefy & works great. The one I originally pieced together snapped in half at URE on Kodak....
 
I've got a 1-piece shaft in the rear.
I extended the stock driveshaft 4"....pulled a junkyard driveshaft from an explorer, cut it, sleeved the inside with carboard tube & outside with angle to get everything in-line, welded it all up & painted. Its not 100% true & I get some vibrations at ~60mph, but this thing is trailered 90% of its life so that doesn't bother me.

I'll put a plug for Beard Built Shafts (lbyota on here), he built my front driveshaft and its beefy & works great. The one I originally pieced together snapped in half at URE on Kodak....
what did you do to clear your cross menber?
 
what did you do to clear your cross menber?

For the rear crossmember, I didn't have to do anything. The rear driveshaft clears a crossmember, and I'm dual-purposing that one as a 'catch' in case it breaks or slips apart, my driveshaft can't dig into the ground. For the front driveshaft, I had my buddy bend a piece of 1/2" plate into a 'U' shape and we welded that in (no pics - but very similar to yours in post #113).

Since you don't live too far away, give me a call [704-three two two-8 two 8 zero] and you can swing by and check it out...I live on the Harrisburg side of Concord. Also, it'll be in action at 4 wheel parts this weekend on our club's RTI ramp & some crusher cars....
 
For the rear crossmember, I didn't have to do anything. The rear driveshaft clears a crossmember, and I'm dual-purposing that one as a 'catch' in case it breaks or slips apart, my driveshaft can't dig into the ground. For the front driveshaft, I had my buddy bend a piece of 1/2" plate into a 'U' shape and we welded that in (no pics - but very similar to yours in post #113).

Since you don't live too far away, give me a call [704-three two two-8 two 8 zero] and you can swing by and check it out...I live on the Harrisburg side of Concord. Also, it'll be in action at 4 wheel parts this weekend on our club's RTI ramp & some crusher cars....
Id like to come look at but im always so buisy i dont know when i could, any way you could post some pics of you rear drive shaft setup on this thread, when looking at my sset up i dont see how in the world a 1 peice shaft woul clear that cross member and i cant find anyy pics on other build threads.
thanks for your help man
 
Snapped a couple of pics (keep in mind I've got a D300 behind my tx10)....

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Did the D300/TX10 dual case mod right before I did the SAS, so I don't have any pics of just the TX10
 
Snapped a couple of pics (keep in mind I've got a D300 behind my tx10)....


Did the D300/TX10 dual case mod right before I did the SAS, so I don't have any pics of just the TX10
Thanks man i just wanted to make sure it would clear, do you think it would clear with just my tx10?
 
Thanks man i just wanted to make sure it would clear, do you think it would clear with just my tx10?

Not sure, but my gut feeling is probably not.
If you've got a spare piece of metal that's almost the right length, you could mock it up to check.
Heck even an old broom stick/shovel handle/etc would work!

If you need to modify it, I think you could get away with adding a hoop like you did for the front driveshaft to clear that crossmember.
If you end up having to modify it, I'd add a chain under it to catch the driveshaft if it ever slips completely off.
 
Not sure, but my gut feeling is probably not.
If you've got a spare piece of metal that's almost the right length, you could mock it up to check.
Heck even an old broom stick/shovel handle/etc would work!

If you need to modify it, I think you could get away with adding a hoop like you did for the front driveshaft to clear that crossmember.
If you end up having to modify it, I'd add a chain under it to catch the driveshaft if it ever slips completely off.
Thanks alot man for the help ill try to find something to mock it up as best as possible

I really wanna go one piece rear drive shaft but ive had everyone tell me differently, some say it will bolt right in (including Steveo at RR) and others say im going to have to mod the cross member. I geuss im just going to have to figure it out....when i get the money :)

Again thanks alot Lurch for answering my questions.
 
Again thanks alot Lurch for answering my questions.

Anytime, always glad to help.
My offer still stands if you ever want to swing by the house...just give me a call
 
so i got a rad. spal fan off of catfishblues....who knew that putting a raidator back in a hardbody is a PITA! but then again i should have figured :kaioken:
 
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