Hardbody SAS

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i gaot the fan wired, nothing much
Fan to Relay to switch all as cheap as possible (but still the right amperage on the parts)
The switch came out pretty clean looking so im happy about that.
 
Found a better SAS flex pic.....

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Wow its been a while, havent had much time to work on this thing with getting married, working two jobs and having no money lol. But i decided its time i bust it out so i can have two vehicles again. I relocated the rear shackle hangers back about 1.5"s, shackel angle turned out just right. I also scored a set of 4 military tires for 100 bucks! Downfall was i had to buy new 16.5s because no one has any used ones but when it was all said and done i put about $425 into them.


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haha, yea i just gotta get an alignment and get the truck up to Josh at Universal Automotive to help me with the drive shaft, and ill be driving her again but it wont be 4wd for a while :(. But Ill be getting you your wheels and tires back soonish, probably January.
 
Thanks to the Guys at Universal Automotive I drove my truck home tonight!

We ended up having to drop the center support about an 1.5" and bring it forward about 3/4", shorten the rear shaft and lengthen the front. Josh, Frank, and Jake are all great guys, extremely knowledgeable, and are the best at what they do, not to mention they're willing to help someone out. I recomend Universal Automotive to anyone and everyone for anything from completely custom driveshafts to custom suspension, bumpers, and any other 4x4 or fabrication project.

Thanks Guys!
 
Slow/no progress due to moving, marriage, full time job and full time school. I did manage to work out few bugs, headliner, rear bumper, wind shied wiper, and i moved my axle forward an inch which fixed my steering clearance issue and now my wheel base is 118".

Ive almost saved up enough to get it 4wd and a little road safer since its my dd haha.
PARTS LIST:
-4.56's for the front
-spool
-install kit
-front drive shaft, yokes, U-joints
-still havent decide if i want to go one piece rear shaft or not
-bilstein 5100s, and shock hoops
-high steer arms

PIC of "stretch"
 

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get those gears done? I daily drove mine for a few months before re-gearing the front and building a front shaft but that first 4wd trip made it all worth it. Couple of pics in her current form
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Nah I'm bout to order them, and all the other parts I need next Friday. That's a nice lookin pathy , what did you do for a rear driveshaft? Is yours a two piece. And yea I'm dying to get back on the trails its been 3 years!
 
I posted that a 6am, i didnt look at it very well and thought it was pathfinder, that and im a dumbass:flipoff2:. Sorry Corneilius thats a nice truck man!
 
I got the parts for my front drive shaft and got every thing ready to be burned in. I got the yokes, flange, and u-joints from Universal Automotive, i cant thank those guys enough for all the help. Got the tube from Stock Car Steel, 2.5" x .25" and 2" x .25" cut both pieces at 16", my pinion nut to flange nut on the TC measurement was 28" at level so i figured that 11.5" of outward travel and 7" of inward travel would be plenty. Tomorrow I will be ordering my gears, spool, and install kit from ECGS best price i could find anywhere, I will also be ordering my shock hoops from Trail Gear so im pretty stoked. Anyway here is a pic.

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got the shaft tacked, mocked up then welded and clearance test, it dosent make a full rotation and is binding at the TC side, tried shaving the yoke but it didnt help so i gotta find other options, maybe double cardan. I order my gears, locker, spool, and shook hoops yesterday. and they shipped today! thanks ECGS!! Pics later
 
Tom Woods makes an offset u-joint that will gain you some room for a little cheaper than a cardan.
 
Clearance issue before grinding

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No clearance issues with cross member or exhaust

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Still binding after grinding

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That's a sweet lookin rig! Really makes me wish my buddy would hurry up with his so I can get to work on it!

What series joints are those?
 
I'm not sure if a 1310 offset joint would give you enough clearance or not, especially when the suspension droops. I know I've seen a few yokes made with a deeper throat in them to afford extra clearance. I know I'd hate to have to pony up for a CV...I'm in the same boat with my Silverado SAS. Built a front shaft from a GM double cardan from the mid-80s and has a Ford 1330 joint on the diff end. I need more angle in mine, so I'm going to have to upgrade to a 1350 CV head on it.
 
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