Killer Weldz Thread

All right you tig guru's I have a jig set up to weld 2000 of these I have the welder set how do I get rid of this dimple at the end of my weld I have purged the pipe moved the heat around over lapped the welded joint but this is what I end up with when I remove the heat please help
 

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2ooo??? what are they?
 
12 foot long fuel tank prodes there is going to be a ultrasonic prode in side I have tried adding wire at the end I am going to take the torch off and do it by hand it's an odd filling moving your part instead of the torch
 
Are you using a pedal or just setting current and using the pedal as an on-off switch? It looks like the current is too high for starters, and when you overlap and stop it's saturated and trying to fall out. Looks like you need to come back 10-15 amps overall and pulse at the end to "button up" the Weld.
 
By "falling out," I meant when the molten metal loses grip of the solid metal around it and falls through. Burn through, essentially. Just looks different on aluminum. Are you using filler or trying to fuse it with no filler?
 
I am using a filler i have been getting the same thing with or with out filler. this new dynasty has more settings then i am use to i have been told by reps to get it on tri arc mode. going to try that this evening if that doesnt work i am going back to my tig rig i have welded a few with it that look good. i was looking for something quicker because i am on a time crunch. i will get it dialed in just not sure it will be for this job.
 
More heat. Less space between my circles. I really haven't been happy with my mig work lately. I changed machines to a miller 212 a few months ago hoping I'd have a little better adjustability and it's helped a lot. I don't like the way my welds look on stuff like this once it's been painted. I'm now trying to get a little wider flatter bead with less circle definition. Hopefully this'll look much better painted.
 
MarsFab said:
More heat. Less space between my circles. I really haven't been happy with my mig work lately. I changed machines to a miller 212 a few months ago hoping I'd have a little better adjustability and it's helped a lot. I don't like the way my welds look on stuff like this once it's been painted. I'm now trying to get a little wider flatter bead with less circle definition. Hopefully this'll look much better painted.
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I've always used less heat but more speed with smaller circles, but i like that bead profile you pictured. Did you slow down you wire also to keep gravity from creating a higher, less domed profile?

I really like the less spacing. Some welders seem to really string out their loops almost appearing like a string of flat bubbles.

I'm self taught but always looking to improve:....structurally first, asthetically second.

Great work as always chris.
 
Unfortunately because I own a miller welder and it's not at least a mm252 I can't actually tell you what voltage or ipm I weld at. But in the past I welded with low heat, very low travel speed and a pretty slow oscillation. It worked pretty well because it gave me time to really focus on how the metal flowed and shaped up. Plus it made a very convex caterpillar looking weld. You could actually hook your fingernail on each "dime"
It looks cool and it's pretty solid but the draw back to it is that you're running such low voltage that you can barely get the initial burn hot enough to flow the end of the previous weld. You end up with beads that meet at a cold point that eventually will rust because there's a cold lap at the start/stop point.

This new way is still pretty slow and easy to shape up but it flows out wider and makes for a better start/stop point that's burnt in deeper.
 
Always .030 @CarolinaTruggies I don't ever change. Although I might not mind still dropping down to some .023 and trying it out. It's been a while since I did and I remember it working really well on tube.
 
MarsFab said:
Trying a little different Mig on tube technique
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This I really like, and I can see a very noticeable difference.

Pics didn't load, but oh well. The technique change was a good one.
 
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I finally got this tig fine tuned for want my customer wants cut the tube 100% penetration and no bulge of weld there will be a slip cover going over the end
 
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All the welds are really nice. Wish I could weld that good so I can get my axle truss on my Dodge.
 
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