Killer Weldz Thread

[peewee]

My fist tig weld bead

 

[peewee]

I think the bottom one is the best. 3rd down had to much stick out. I really like this!

 

[hurt4x4]

You're going to be hooked now!
Try to keep your stick out somewhere around 3/8" and your tungsten as close to your base material as you can without dipping it too often. When you do dip the tungstun, grind it everytime. before too long you'll learn not to dip it as much.

 

[peewee]

You're going to be hooked now!
Try to keep your stick out somewhere around 3/8" and your tungsten as close to your base material as you can without dipping it too often. When you do dip the tungstun, grind it everytime. before too long you'll learn not to dip it as much.

I've already dipped it. When you dip it do you grind off the glob and make a new point or do you cut the tungsten and grind a new point?

 

[MarsFab]

I've been working really hard to get more consistent with my MIG welds on tubing. One of the main things I think helps with it is being able to weld at least 180* around a joint everywhere possible. I think this latest buggy were building is probably my best yet but I've still got a long way to go.

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[mcutler]

I've been working really hard to get more consistent with my MIG welds on tubing. One of the main things I think helps with it is being able to weld at least 180* around a joint everywhere possible. I think this latest buggy were building is probably my best yet but I've still got a long way to go.

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Looking good Chris!

Matt

 

[Mac5005]

I've been working really hard to get more consistent with my MIG welds on tubing. One of the main things I think helps with it is being able to weld at least 180* around a joint everywhere possible. I think this latest buggy were building is probably my best yet but I've still got a long way to go.

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Awesome work Chris. Thumbs up.

Fap. Fap. Fap.

 

[Mac5005]

I've already dipped it. When you dip it do you grind off the glob and make a new point or do you cut the tungsten and grind a new point?

Either or,

Depends on how bad it is.

A lot of times the end will break off easily from the heat cycles.

 

[mcutler]

I've been practicing my tig a little as well. Still a long way to go but it is a lot of fun.

Miller diversion 165, with foot pedal. All the steel was 11 gauge p&o, and the aluminum coupon was .250. Varying tungsten types, all 3/32, 25 cfm argon, varied filler thicknesses.

Any tips welcomed!


Matt

 

[Tom@Hilltop_Machine]

View attachment 240573
I really like this!

Wait till you try aluminum. Wets in better once you get the hang of it.

 

[peewee]

Wait till you try aluminum. Wets in better once you get the hang of it.

I'll have to get a different welding machine to weld aluminum. Once I get good with the scratch start I'll look in to a more capable welding rig. I've been just burning lines trying to get everything just right. I really like the control of tig.

 

[NickMaul]

Need some advice. I fired up the MIG for the first time in a few years with a new bottle of C25 and 0.030 wire. I have been stick welding for a decent bit and have gotten really comfortable dragging the electrode. Now I know slag=drag and MIG=push but it doesn't feel right after dragging while stick welding. I did a few passes on some clean scrap pushing and was getting a lot of spatter. Maybe my gun angle was too far back and was spraying the arc out of control.

If I can see better and control the gun better dragging is there any issue with that? Here is a picture of my second pass pulling basically maxing out the machine leading to tripping the breaker. The pushing welds looked acceptable, just not as good as when I pulled.



Soooo push or pull?

 

[mcutler]

I pull 90% of the time, depends on position for me. Usually depends on the torch angle the surrounding area let's me achieve.

----
Pushing usually produces lower penetration and a wider, flatter bead because the arc force is directed away from the weld puddle. With the drag or backhand technique (also called the, pull or trailing technique), the welding gun is pointed back at the weld puddle and dragged away from the deposited metal.
MIG Welding: The Basics for Mild Steel - ...
Miller › resources › article-library › mig-...


Matt

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Need some advice. I fired up the MIG for the first time in a few years with a new bottle of C25 and 0.030 wire. I have been stick welding for a decent bit and have gotten really comfortable dragging the electrode. Now I know slag=drag and MIG=push but it doesn't feel right after dragging while stick welding. I did a few passes on some clean scrap pushing and was getting a lot of spatter. Maybe my gun angle was too far back and was spraying the arc out of control.

If I can see better and control the gun better dragging is there any issue with that? Here is a picture of my second pass pulling basically maxing out the machine leading to tripping the breaker. The pushing welds looked acceptable, just not as good as when I pulled.



Soooo push or pull?

We teach both. I like to use push on thinner material. Anything under plate. Thicker I tend to backhand or drag. But here's the catch either way you have to stay on the leading edge of the pool. Also gun angle is important. To much lean and your headed for trouble. Zero to 15 degrees is optimal. Spatter is usually a function of wire stick out or feed rates that don't match the voltage setting. For short circuit transfer use 1/4 stick out. Don't go anywhere near 1/2. 3/8 and your flirting with voltage issues. The volts try to remain constant stick out variations makes this difficult. Wire speed is actually a function of amperage, so tuning for a balanced arc at a higher wire speed always produces more heat. This is a common balance error. Sometimes a little crack can clear up with just a bit higher wire speed, amps go up.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Look how clean, uniform, and over all how nice this Mig looks. It's not rough and the toes of the weld are not horrible and show some wetting.

Now look at the penetration. This was from not staying on the leading edge.
250 amp Miller, Stick, Tig Industrial.
19.5 volts, 250 wire speed. 0.35 wire. Decently hot for short circuit. 75/25 Blend gas.
Real common machine and set up.
Also a real common mistake.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Now some better stuff.

Open root Tig demo I ran. 3/32 filler. 3/8 plate. 3/32 opening. 125 amps flat footed walking cup.

 

[jeepinmatt]

Now some better stuff.
View attachment 240591
Open root Tig demo I ran. 3/32 filler. 3/8 plate. 3/32 opening. 125 amps flat footed walking cup.

I'm digging that gage. Not sure what I'd use it for, but seems useful.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I'm digging that gage. Not sure what I'd use it for, but seems useful.

Bridge cam gage. Measure under cut, fill depth, effective throat of fillet welds, reinforcement excetera. Inspection testing for nit picking welds basicly. Makes students and especially seasoned careless pros cuss, a lot.

 

[peewee]

I've got a question for the pros. When striking an ark with scratch start tig what method works best and why. Lots of detail. I've been researching and trying different ways and the one I think I like the best is to put the filler rod against the tungsten and "flick" it down towards the work. I tried to just strike or scratch and ark but it seams to eat the point off of my tungsten and sticks sometimes. What do you do and why? Is their any problems with the way I'm doing it?

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I've got a question for the pros. When striking an ark with scratch start tig what method works best and why. Lots of detail. I've been researching and trying different ways and the one I think I like the best is to put the filler rod against the tungsten and "flick" it down towards the work. I tried to just strike or scratch and ark but it seams to eat the point off of my tungsten and sticks sometimes. What do you do and why? Is their any problems with the way I'm doing it?

First with or without a foot pedal or thumb switch?
Some people confuse lift arc and scratch though the techniques blur between the two.

 

[peewee]

First with or without a foot pedal or thumb switch?
Some people confuse lift arc and scratch though the techniques blur between the two.

No petal. no switch. Miller thunderbolt. True scratch start.

 

[Mac5005]

Did these last night. This is a 1/1.25" receiver hitch to mount various tools on the fab table.

Led me to practice some tonight

3/32 filler and tungsten. Er70, 2% ceriated. Machine set on 200a, foot pedal. Regular a36 1/4" low carbon steel angle iron.

My torch hand was shaking so badly, it looked like a sewing machine lol

 

[Jeep_parts]

To keep this thread going and to keep the welding standards high, @MarsFab , @mcutler , @hurt4x4 do you have any new mig welding photos that you would like to share.

I have read a lot of @MarsFab post on this thread, have you ever thought about posting a welding video ?

Like mig welding techniques?

thanks

 

[MarsFab]

This is all I've got for now. These are tow points on a back bumper we built for an XJ. The cage we're doing on it is turning out pretty nice I'll try to remember to snap a few pics of my welds on it tomorrow.

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[Jeff B]

I've been working really hard to get more consistent with my MIG welds on tubing. One of the main things I think helps with it is being able to weld at least 180* around a joint everywhere possible. I think this latest buggy were building is probably my best yet but I've still got a long way to go.

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Turn the heat up a little and move faster and you will have more flow. Does look very uniform!