Killer Weldz Thread

Been contracted to build a 55" set of trailing arms for @ol'Jeeps at Metalwerx for a long travel tacoma pre runner. Tig'ing these. Been putting in lots of hood time...it's progressing nicely, yet still much to learn.

I'll have the lamination done this weekend.

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mcutler said:
Been contracted to build a 55" set of trailing arms for @ol'Jeeps at Metalwerx for a long travel tacoma pre runner. Tig'ing these. Been putting in lots of hood time...it's progressing nicely, yet still much to learn.

I'll have the lamination done this weekend.

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Ruffstuff or Cutler Fab arms?
 
Have I ever told anyone how much I love tig welding...I mean, I was in love with mig, but I have a new love now...

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Still gotta get my edge control down, left hand torch, and more consistent rhythm, but I'm tickled shitless with how is going.
 
You don't have to come right out and say it. Its obvious!
To do anything for the pure love and enjoyment of it is the best reason to do anything.
:beer: This ones for anyone that knows exactly what I'm talking about.
 
mcutler said:
One down one to go...

First official set of Cutler Fab tig welded trailing arms hitting the market, lol.
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..and after brushing and scotchbrite, ready for paint

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Right between the 2 mounts is the perfect place for your logo.
 
mcutler said:
One down one to go...

First official set of Cutler Fab tig welded trailing arms hitting the market, lol.
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..and after brushing and scotchbrite, ready for paint

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That's a lot a tig practice right there!
How many hours to weld one up?
 
hurt4x4 said:
That's a lot a tig practice right there!
How many hours to weld one up?
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Have about 20 hours total in fab and welding for one, some of the templates have been cut for the second also. Customer didn't specify tig welded, I priced them as mig, but not charging him for tig, paid practice. The second always goes much faster, maybe 10 hours, especially since I sort of have the hang of it now. Some of it could be mig since it was ground down, but I wanted the practice.

I'll make a bit less by doing tig due to the extra labor, filler, and argon (working on 3rd bottle now).

Used CK technologies giant gas cup (#18 I think) but dropped it about 2 feet of weld left. So went back to the trusty #6 gas lens. (But I did place a weldmonger order yesterday for the fupa 12, tig fingers, 2% Lanth, and misc stuffs...)



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On a side note...

The miller diversion 165 (or 180) are excellent machines for the hobbyist to learn with. Flip the switch, set the gas, set the heat, (buy a pedal) and mash it, make a mess and figure it out. No knobs to have to learn. Currently I see no limitations for it up to 3/16 steel and 1/8 aluminum in automotive fabrication. If you want to learn tig, it's a good bang for your buck to get started!

(That said, I'll be looking for a dynasty once the manche is done, but I'll keep this one cuz it's quick and easy to maneuver. )

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mcutler said:
On a side note...

The miller diversion 165 (or 180) are excellent machines for the hobbyist to learn with. Flip the switch, set the gas, set the heat, (buy a pedal) and mash it, make a mess and figure it out. No knobs to have to learn. Currently I see no limitations for it up to 3/16 steel and 1/8 aluminum in automotive fabrication. If you want to learn tig, it's a good bang for your buck to get started!

(That said, I'll be looking for a dynasty once the manche is done, but I'll keep this one cuz it's quick and easy to maneuver. )

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I hope they got the problems worked out of them by now.

Mine spend more time getting fixed than welding. I had it for 18 months, and maybe welded with it 4 hours total.

After six different problems and fixes by the service center, It had everything replaced but the torch. Then I sold it before it broke again.
 
Mac5005 said:
I hope they got the problems worked out of them by now.

Mine spend more time getting fixed than welding. I had it for 18 months, and maybe welded with it 4 hours total.

After six different problems and fixes by the service center, It had everything replaced but the torch. Then I sold it before it broke again.
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What were the problems? I haven't had any issue, and bought mine second hand. Sat here in shop for 3 years before I ever plugged it up.

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mcutler said:
What were the problems? I haven't had any issue, and bought mine second hand. Sat here in shop for 3 years before I ever plugged it up.

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Hi frequency quit 4 times and fixed, then the main board twice.

Main boards had smoke coming out of welder.

Hi freq just didn't work. No warning at all it would just quit.

It literally broke more occasions that I welded with it.

A friend here also bought one around the same time and had similar issues. He sold his and bought an everlast. Has been running that ever since.
 
Received my fupa 12 cup, 2% lanthanated, tig finger, and other goodies today. I really like the Lanth. The arc is very stable and keeps its point nicely.

On both two samples below; on left- fupa 12, 2% lanthanated 3/32...on right- #8 gas saver cup, thoriated 3/32... 160 amps, .250 dom to .125 p&o plate, er70s-2_3/32.

Matt



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mcutler said:
Working on a little root/ cover weave

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Make sure you don't starve the puddle for wire when doing a weave. Also helps if you step up a wire size to keep from getting short in your off hand.

See the puddle freeze and solidify each lateral step across the weave, if it stays fluid it's too hot, you just barely see the liquid tail of the puddle solidify before another lateral step across the weave.

Match your amperage to how fast you feel comfortable weaving.

If you are too cold, the puddle will not follow you easily, same if the puddle is starving for wire.
 
@Mac5005, thanks for the tips. I was trying to lay wire on a practice piece but wasn't happy with the outcome yet. So in these pics I did freehand weave dabbing at each pass. I think the deposition was to low also, I intend to try one more cover pass with heavier fill. Round tube to plate certainly ups the difficulty level getting in those corners.

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Angle of the dangle also helps with lay wire. Lay it up shallower than dipping. Slight down pressure and roll it back and forth in your finger tips. Works if re centering or slight width manipulation is needed.
The heat is usually real close when the metal continuously wicks into the puddle. If your constantly creating a gap between filler and arc lower heat or step up filler size.
Also don't over weave per given diameter of filler.Overwashing the tungsten will cause undercut all along the edges.
Try and walk not tic tack rocking on cup edges back and forth. Fillet welds on tee configurations is when this is harder. Can be more of a "tungsten" swim. Light hand pressure and roll on the diameter. All will give consistent softer edges with more uniform flow.
Shallow angle with cup, to steep and more tick tack and hanging up on the edges.....then she scoots out and woooooooopppps.
 
YotaOnRocks said:
I feel like I need Rosetta Stone tig addition to follow along with this tig talk
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Yea, @WARRIORWELDING laid down the hooked on phonics edition. I know that took him a while to type up and I appreciate the advice Andrew, but imma have to re-read that a time or two to decipher all the journeyman siang! [emoji481] [emoji106]

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mcutler said:
Yea, @WARRIORWELDING laid down the hooked on phonics edition. I know that took him a while to type up and I appreciate the advice Andrew, but imma have to re-read that a time or two to decipher all the journeyman siang! [emoji481] [emoji106]

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If most ever met me you'd swear I was a different person. For some odd reason I can type and communicate fairly clear....sometime wordy though. But face to face I lose my train of thought concentration or some damn something and what comes out is all out of sorts. Almost out of order in my head. Its plum weird, but I often struggle to speak like a want....so in class I'll just shut up and demo a process or position. Teaching has proven to be a rewarding challenge.
 
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