Killer Weldz Thread

auploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160716_094143ee990aaf04f7f37996d3cef0b6.jpg


These ouside corner welds always kick my ass. This is .090 chromo. I'm getting better but have a long way to go, I dread these.
 
CTRaceWorx said:
View attachment 223737

These ouside corner welds always kick my ass. This is .090 chromo. I'm getting better but have a long way to go, I dread these.
Click to expand...
Tighten up your dabs or use larger filler rod. You will get a better rounded corner for your weld.
 
CTRaceWorx said:
I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Welcome. I wanna be nosey. Are you using a gas lens? The color on those collar things was tits..
 
I'm using a plain jane #8 with a diffuser in it. I use plenty of post flow to keep my tungsten alive for longer and to give the color. I have some of the larger lenses but I can't justify the extra gas flow needed to run them. I can with 15 on this cup but need close to 30 on the big gas lens.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
I have very little luck getting nice color in my welds. I either have to move so fast that I can't get enough filler in the puddle and it's way to concave or I have to keep my heat so low that I end up cold and can't get the puddle to flow.
I use a #8 gas lense for almost everything. The best luck I've had is doing a heavy fill first pass then a no fill cap pass with low current to flow the the filler out wider and shape the weld. That pass will sometimes have nice color, others will just be a nice even silver color.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
How much strength does the color add?:gay:
 
Pretty much if it's a TIG weld and it's a dull grey it's too much heat, gas coverage can't make up for that. You're looking for a shiny finish. This is my experience.
I run post flow for no less than 4 seconds when I tack. All of this .090 and .125 stuff is set at about 8 seconds, sometimes longer depending on the area. It really helps keep the weld protected till it cools and give a shiny and slightly colorful finish.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Tighten up your dabs or use larger filler rod. You will get a better rounded corner for your weld.
Click to expand...

This x2. Faster taps with the wire, or larger wire.

MarsFab said:
I have very little luck getting nice color in my welds. I either have to move so fast that I can't get enough filler in the puddle and it's way to concave or I have to keep my heat so low that I end up cold and can't get the puddle to flow.
I use a #8 gas lense for almost everything. The best luck I've had is doing a heavy fill first pass then a no fill cap pass with low current to flow the the filler out wider and shape the weld. That pass will sometimes have nice color, others will just be a nice even silver color.


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I agree completely. Me and several others spent hours testing welds, trailing cup, super huge gas lenses, different flow rates etc.

The guys helping me test this all weld 40+ hours a week for several large companies. They are all far better welders that me, and I just wanted to try out a few myths.

What we found, the most common way to get IG quality colors....

Was to either make the competent weld regardless of color, let it cool, then walk back over the weld super fast, with tons of gas flow, just to flash the toes out perfectly even and to get the IG famous color.

The big difference to this was ditching the er70 wire and using some 308L wire....

Some of the welds we did had up to five passes, over a single 1/4" wide bead, to get the colors consistent with the cool kids.

This is just not practical. On stainless or carbon with stainless wire is easy.

Just for thread clarity,

Carbon steel with er70 or even er80 wire, the finished bead should be bright shiny silver.

Dull grey is a sign of too much heat input or too slow travel speeds.
 
Dull gray isn't what I get. It's shiny and glass smooth. No crystallization on the surface. Just smooth even gray.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
I use 309L filler occasionally on low stress parts to get the looks but rarely on anything structural. It has a tendency to hot crack. Especially if you don't put enough in the puddle or amperage is too high.
In the past few years most race teams have banned their fabricators from using it for that reason. It's too brittle.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
auploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160718_6ce1d1612f17161eed8f7412d4104e25.jpg


Tried ramming more filler in it and trying to tighten it up some. Getting a little more comfortable with it, pretty happy with the end of the weld. Weld width is right at .125"
 
CTRaceWorx said:
View attachment 223903

Tried ramming more filler in it and trying to tighten it up some. Getting a little more comfortable with it, pretty happy with the end of the weld. Weld width is right at .125"
Click to expand...
What size filler rod? Be a toss up between 1/16 to 3/32 for me. With your spacing I would choose the larger. And a joint that size 3/32 to 1/8 for the tungsten pending how many amps I was pushing. And post flow is the most over looked topic for tungsten preservation. Often it stays hotter longer than the base material and susceptible to contamination. I Love welding parts like these.
 
.045 filler ER80S D2, I'll try 1/16" and see if I can still control the puddle.
3/32" tungsten. It's set at 80 amps. I'm probably running no more than 60 on it, I've never come close to matting the pedal.

Thanks for your help. I'm always trying to improve
 
3/32 is my go-to filler. I find it works for all but the heaviest or smallest of pieces. General rule of thumb is to run the same diameter filler as your tungsten. Unless you're shoving a bunch of filler in per dab with 0.045, you're not getting a much stronger weld than if it were a fusion weld on thicker materials.
 
Mac5005 said:
Only partially related to this thread, but a big deal to us nonetheless,

My fiancé Sam signed a full time contract to teach welding at NASHCC today.

She has been working her butt off for the last 5 years to reach this goal. Had to share with our NC4x4 family.
Click to expand...

Way to shatter that glass ceiling, Sam! Congratulations!
 
Mac5005 said:
Only partially related to this thread, but a big deal to us nonetheless,

My fiancé Sam signed a full time contract to teach welding at NASHCC today.

She has been working her butt off for the last 5 years to reach this goal. Had to share with our NC4x4 family.
Click to expand...
Badass!
 
Back
Top