Killer Weldz Thread

[biggun68]

start of my buggy

 

[95yjjeep]

you guys do some nice work.

 

[MarsFab]

Nice!

 

[MetalCraftSolved]

Camera phones

 

[MetalCraftSolved]

.

 

[MetalCraftSolved]

Fatty Tire Sprocket

 

[MarsFab]

Dang son! I guess I need to take some pictures and play catch up. Thats nice!

 

[MarsFab]

Built and alternator relocation bracket today for the race jeep. We eliminated the AC compressor and mounted the alt up high where it was to keep it outta harms way, and a few pics of some aluminum work on it too.

Blasted and ready for paint.

 

[95yjjeep]

Those are some sexy welds Chris! Thanks for letting me watch you weld up that alt bracket up tonight. You've got some serious skill!!

 

[SSWaters]

Man those are nice Chris!

 

[MarsFab]

What a goof ball.

I see a little stack of dimes peeking out in the corner of that pic!!

 

[catfishblues]

Nice consistency! I like the design, too. Not for nothing, though, you should have "buttoned up" that weld in the picture. The last spot on the end, where you trailed off, it looks like there's a crater. You know as well as I, and alternator bracket sees some serious stress. If it's going to break, my money's on it starting there. Another pulse of heat and a dab of filler could keep that from happening. Correct me if I'm wrong, though. that's just what I can see in the picture. And the corner welds on that aluminum look really good! I've seen professionally built fuel cells that looked like garbage compared to that.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

Any tig weld should maintain a fluid transition accross the weld pool. The stack of dimes "look" should only be created by the addition of filler material added to the weld pool. In the case of aluminum this is done on the leading edge. As the torch passes throught this material is should then be "wetted out creating a uniform bead. By maintaning the weld pool and only adding to the leading edge penetration is maintained without excessive burn through. Aluminum naturally will "suck" the material to the center of the pool, STEEL, STAINLESS and almost any other material does not react this way. When welding these material the filler shoud be added to the center of the weld pool. Penetration is achieved strictly by the depth of molten metal like aluminum but the filler does not flow the same. Adding behind center usually results in the arc cutting the filler rather than it reaching the melting point and completely being absorbed "also known as becoming part of the weld solution". This is where uniform fusion takes place. Adding the filler to the leading edge causes shallow penetration and a host of poor fusion problems. When manually pulsing or automatic forward progress and the addition of filler should only be made during "on time." This can be timed so that filler is added near its peak for maximun dillution of the filler into the parent material. This gives the best fusion. As the level of energy ramps down slight forward progress is acceptable but never beyond what the setting allows for a continuos molten pool. This whole process can be slowed down in a manual pulse where you can litterally add each "dime" however the bead should be uniform a continuous. If you can measure dicontinuity greater than a 32 of an inch across a weld section or catch a finger nail or pick at any piont its a flaw and an area of poor fusion. IN SHORT in a destructive plate test it will rip like a zipper. Test and weld inspection and the AWS welding code spells it out pretty clear.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Any tig weld should maintain a fluid transition accross the weld pool. The stack of dimes "look" should only be created by the addition of filler material added to the weld pool. In the case of aluminum this is done on the leading edge. As the torch passes throught this material is should then be "wetted out creating a uniform bead. By maintaning the weld pool and only adding to the leading edge penetration is maintained without excessive burn through. Aluminum naturally will "suck" the material to the center of the pool, STEEL, STAINLESS and almost any other material does not react this way. When welding these material the filler shoud be added to the center of the weld pool. Penetration is achieved strictly by the depth of molten metal like aluminum but the filler does not flow the same. Adding behind center usually results in the arc cutting the filler rather than it reaching the melting point and completely being absorbed "also known as becoming part of the weld solution". This is where uniform fusion takes place. Adding the filler to the leading edge causes shallow penetration and a host of poor fusion problems. When manually pulsing or automatic forward progress and the addition of filler should only be made during "on time." This can be timed so that filler is added near its peak for maximun dillution of the filler into the parent material. This gives the best fusion. As the level of energy ramps down slight forward progress is acceptable but never beyond what the setting allows for a continuos molten pool. This whole process can be slowed down in a manual pulse where you can litterally add each "dime" however the bead should be uniform a continuous. If you can measure dicontinuity greater than a 32 of an inch across a weld section or catch a finger nail or pick at any piont its a flaw and an area of poor fusion. IN SHORT in a destructive plate test it will rip like a zipper. Test and weld inspection and the AWS welding code spells it out pretty clear.

So to sum up what you said basically for a stronger weld you want something similar to the pic you posted rather than a stack of dimes?

 

[SSWaters]

I can make it look either way mig or tig, people like the "dime" look from watching Chopper and NASCAR shows. All I weld with is a 25 year old Century 250, a 3 phase Miller CP 300 and an old Miller 3 phase tig. I need a new "wave" style welder to play with! When migging I use .035 or .045 on everything it seems to force it deep, heat cranked, vary my speed.

I've seen in my aviation field the "tip tig" system, that's pretty cool.

 

[MarsFab]

View attachment 44632
Any tig weld should maintain a fluid transition accross the weld pool. The stack of dimes "look" should only be created by the addition of filler material added to the weld pool. In the case of aluminum this is done on the leading edge. As the torch passes throught this material is should then be "wetted out creating a uniform bead. By maintaning the weld pool and only adding to the leading edge penetration is maintained without excessive burn through. Aluminum naturally will "suck" the material to the center of the pool, STEEL, STAINLESS and almost any other material does not react this way. When welding these material the filler shoud be added to the center of the weld pool. Penetration is achieved strictly by the depth of molten metal like aluminum but the filler does not flow the same. Adding behind center usually results in the arc cutting the filler rather than it reaching the melting point and completely being absorbed "also known as becoming part of the weld solution". This is where uniform fusion takes place. Adding the filler to the leading edge causes shallow penetration and a host of poor fusion problems. When manually pulsing or automatic forward progress and the addition of filler should only be made during "on time." This can be timed so that filler is added near its peak for maximun dillution of the filler into the parent material. This gives the best fusion. As the level of energy ramps down slight forward progress is acceptable but never beyond what the setting allows for a continuos molten pool. This whole process can be slowed down in a manual pulse where you can litterally add each "dime" however the bead should be uniform a continuous. If you can measure dicontinuity greater than a 32 of an inch across a weld section or catch a finger nail or pick at any piont its a flaw and an area of poor fusion. IN SHORT in a destructive plate test it will rip like a zipper. Test and weld inspection and the AWS welding code spells it out pretty clear.

You are right. I can't argue with that. My root pass on those welds was done exactly as you described it should be done. What you are seeing in those pictures of the alternator bracket were all done as a root pass with filler and a cap pass using the pedal to ramp the heat up and down to flow the puddle with smooth forward motion, no filler added. I was showing Chad (95yjjeep) how you can get different effect/looks with amperage control and travel speed vs. adding filler. They just happened to look pretty decent when I was finished so I figured I'd update the thread.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

So to sum up what you said basically for a stronger weld you want something similar to the pic you posted rather than a stack of dimes?

All welds are stronger when the weld pool remains as uniform as possible. Any irregularity introduces stress risers into a weldment. Welds will always tend to be either stronger, weaker, more or less ductile, elastic or dense than the parent materials. This is why full dillution and the most uniform penetration and bead characteristics is desired. Welding chromoly is a good example of how weld pools react on the more extreme end of alloy characteristics. Welded with the incorrect filler and heat results in weld cracks and imediate failure (again extreme example).
As for the popularized stack of dimes phrase, it is a texture and appearence reference. Ity is my belief that modern TV and media has over stated and misconstrued its original base of reference. The first use of the term I was introduced to was stricly related to SMAW welding (STICK) with fast freezing electrodes. The technique utilized was a whip motion or a back and forth motion with a slight change in arc elevation. This allowed for a cleaning preheat of the base material and then a puddle filler introduction on the back motion. This is also the closet point or shortest arc lenght while welding. This teqhnique is supperb for controlling puddle size filler input and penetration. It is considered an excellent all posistion technique. However just like in Tig the ripples " edges of the dimes" should be very uniform and very tightly spaced. In other words if you see the actual surface of the coin rather than the edge your travel is too aggressive.
Mig welding in general was the answer to continuous weld pool transition if you will. I know its not always practical but the process was designed for laying down uniterupted weld. The process in very low settings tend to be very fast freezing , shollow penetrating, and poorly dilluted into the weld solution. In short for the best results keep it hot, continuous, and uniform. Because of the inherent constant flow of filler, the weld arc is often out run by its filler. Cold lap of the joints is a commom problem. Mig welding filler,with the ecception of some very specific inner shield wires (flux core) have very poor cleaning characteristics. It's shallow penetration doesn't dig through mil scale or rust. The puddle freezes to quickly for impurities to free flow out of the weld pool and become trapped in the heat effected zone. Higher silica content fillers help with this issue. Bevel when possible and prep the weld areas by removing impurities.

You are right. I can't argue with that. My root pass on those welds was done exactly as you described it should be done. What you are seeing in those pictures of the alternator bracket were all done as a root pass with filler and a cap pass using the pedal to ramp the heat up and down to flow the puddle with smooth forward motion, no filler added. I was showing Chad (95yjjeep) how you can get different effect/looks with amperage control and travel speed vs. adding filler. They just happened to look pretty decent when I was finished so I figured I'd update the thread.

wasn't really refering to any one pic or post. I thought it was a good educational moment. I get alittle wound up about welding. guess every body can tell by now. I just hope everyone doesn't have the impression that every weld I lay down is laboratory correct or that I think they are. They aren't but I have a pretty good base of knowledge. This is why I strive to work on it often. For me understanding the science made me a better welder rather than all the practice in the world. I enjoy being able to share some knowledge on the subject.

 

[SSWaters]

"The first use of the term I was introduced to was stricly related to SMAW welding (STICK) with fast freezing electrodes. The technique utilized was a whip motion or a back and forth motion with a slight change in arc elevation. This allowed for a cleaning preheat of the base material and then a puddle filler introduction on the back motion. This is also the closet point or shortest arc lenght while welding. This teqhnique is supperb for controlling puddle size filler input and penetration. It is considered an excellent all posistion technique."

Dang man, that's dead on, you got some knowledge, brings back memories for me I'd forgotten why it was that way. I was a Steeple Jack in the early eighties, we did everything stick, nobody really had a mig back then, welding huge frames up in the shop, welding while hanging from cranes over the steeple, welding while tied off to frames on church roofs, welding whatever fell off the crane and all. The old guys taught me that way, I don't think I could pick up a stick and do it that way again without alot of practice. I don't even have a chipping hammer laying around anymore.... Wow, almost 30 years ago, I'm getting old.

We used to ride the ball, ride the sling, ride in the steeples and walk the back of the crane just holding onto the cable (like a ladder), OSHA & safety freaks would shut you down these days.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

that sounds like a fun job for a younger man with an adventurous side, one of my regrets in life is never having held a job with a big crew that got that kind of heavy on sight work done. I married and started a family and shy'ed away from jobs that demanded travel and pigeon holed myself to a shop atmosphere way to early.

I swim like a fish so I looked hard at under water welding while in school but "lust" won out, too young and the wrong head running the priorities. My biggest welding regret.

 

[95yjjeep]

This is the best thing I can muster up. These are some shackles I built and welded today. I thought they turned out pretty good. I hope it's worthy for this thread. Lets see some more welds from the pros. I'm using a Millermatic 185 mig with .035 wire.

 

[MarsFab]

Bump!

 

[Chris_Keziah]

Those are some nice welds Chris

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Dang....I should get a few pics from work! We build rigging/lifting equipment for cranes and such. Our 32" pipe caps are rated to 3 million pounds a pair. One pipe cap is like 3,000 lbs or so. They get 1" stacks on them. It's mind boggling really. We also do in house pull tests to 125% of the working load limit

The welders use a flux core mig wire and Miller 450s. Those jokers can really lay down some serious heat and some good looking welds.

I'll see if I can snag a few pics!

 

[MarsFab]

Yea man let's see them!

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Finally thought to take some pictures. These are on our 26" pipe cap. "Toss" a piece of 26" ID pipe between them, and there's your lifting rig. They're about 5' long and QUITE heavy. If I can remember right, the padeyes themselves are 5" thick. I'm not a welder, just a lowly machinist