Lawn and Landscape

Wait until first week in March. Go to a pro store. There is just a few that are good. Dimension is my favorite but there's also Barricade and Pendimethalon
 
Now is the time to get your pre-emergent out, I already see tiny crabgrass. If we have another hard frost it'll die but no guarantees. Get it out and watered in. My Zoysia I grew from seed last year should completely form sod this year.

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It's too early for pre-emergent right now. Wait until the first week in March. Theres no crabgrass germinating right now plus Dimension kills 2 and 3 tiller Crabgrass seedlings. You are wasting the effectiveness of the product if you apply now.
 
R Q said:
It's too early for pre-emergent right now. Wait until the first week in March. Theres no crabgrass germinating right now plus Dimension kills 2 and 3 tiller Crabgrass seedlings. You are wasting the effectiveness of the product if you apply now.
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Agreed put your pre-emerge out by March 15 for crabgrass control

Dimension is a good pre-emergent herbicide, and dimension will kill crabgrass at a 2-3 tiller stage, but it has to be used as a liquid to control emerged crabgrass, most people don’t realize that. Putting out dimension on fertilizer will give you very little if any post-emergent activity
 
Getting ready for the upcoming season. My elcheapo walk behind broadcast spreader from Lowes took a full dump last fall. I decided to upgrade. Hopefully this one will outlast me.

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drkelly said:
Getting ready for the upcoming season. My elcheapo walk behind broadcast spreader from Lowes took a full dump last fall. I decided to upgrade. Hopefully this one will outlast me.

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You need to calibrate that spreader by buying a cheap bag of fert and measuring off say 10,000 sq ft of area and see what setting it takes to apply the fert so that it runs out right at the end of covering the entire area.
 
guffey24 said:
Agreed put your pre-emerge out by March 15 for crabgrass control

Dimension is a good pre-emergent herbicide, and dimension will kill crabgrass at a 2-3 tiller stage, but it has to be used as a liquid to control emerged crabgrass, most people don’t realize that. Putting out dimension on fertilizer will give you very little if any post-emergent activity
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I did not realize that, the sales guys always preached that it kills post emergently at that stage and I never questioned which product!
 
R Q said:
I did not realize that, the sales guys always preached that it kills post emergently at that stage and I never questioned which product!
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Yes sir and Dow isn’t going to tell you that either, it helps them sell more dimension even on fertilizer

I did some work with the guys at Clemson on it

No offense to the sales guys where your buying material, but most don’t no shit, except what distributor reps tell them
 
Here is another one not many people know, ever heard a sales rep talk about changing up product to help prevent resistance

Barricade, dimension and pendemethelin are all DNA herbicides with the same classification, so your not changing chemistries at all from product to product
 
guffey24 said:
Here is another one not many people know, ever heard a sales rep talk about changing up product to help prevent resistance

Barricade, dimension and pendemethelin are all DNA herbicides with the same classification, so your not changing chemistries at all from product to product
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Yes I've heard that but I am guilty of using what works over and over again! lol I have switched fungicides a few times but you can not beat Heritage or Strobe for the best fungus prevention and curative apps.
 
I’ve been looking at the daily temps in the 10 day forecasts and the soil temps are and will be up enough for crabgrass germination to happen soon. So although I usually wait until the first week of March to apply pre emergent, I am going to go ahead and put mine out this coming week. I’m sure we will have more cold mornings in case some does germinate but in general it looks like we have an early Spring so here we go!
 
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You still have plenty of time, cooler temps coming back will slow the line

Green cast online, pest outlook maps is a great tool for looking at when things are going to happen, it changes everyday with soil temps and current air temps
 
My septic field is a remote type and is basically a big circle in the woods away from my house. The area is about 60-70' in diameter. I have planted standard fescue there every fall for the past few years. The soil is basically pure red clay which I have not limed every year. The area is surrounded by mature forest, so it only gets part sun, which will probably get worse as the years go by and the trees continue to branch out into that void (The area was cleared 4 yrs ago when the house was built). Is there a specific type of grass that would be better to plant there than standard fescue?
 
drkelly said:
My septic field is a remote type and is basically a big circle in the woods away from my house. The area is about 60-70' in diameter. I have planted standard fescue there every fall for the past few years. The soil is basically pure red clay which I have not limed every year. The area is surrounded by mature forest, so it only gets part sun, which will probably get worse as the years go by and the trees continue to branch out into that void (The area was cleared 4 yrs ago when the house was built). Is there a specific type of grass that would be better to plant there than standard fescue?
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Fine fescue mix, 4way blend of hard fescue, chewing, creeping red, and blue grass

Water to establish, low maintenance, let it grow and flop over, weedeater or mow if you want
 
guffey24 said:
Fine fescue mix, 4way blend of hard fescue, chewing, creeping red, and blue grass

Water to establish, low maintenance, let it grow and flop over, weedeater or mow if you want
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I've got an area out by my shed that is nothing but weeds. Clay underneath. Lots of roots as the area is surrounded by mature trees, so it gets partial sun at best. Would fine fescue work in this area too?
 
guffey24 said:
Spray in April with roundup, lightly rake it out

Plant coated Bermuda grass seeding may , water for several months, fertilize to get going, fertilize twice during summer months
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I'm a lawn care newb so if you(or somebody) don't mind explaining a little more I'd appreciate it.

You say spray with round up and rake it out. Does that mean wait for it to die off and loosen the soil up with a rake?

When you say water do you mean run a sprinkler for an hour in the afternoon?

You say fertilize to get going and fertilize twice in summer months. What kind of fert and do i just do July and August about 4 weeks apart? And do I apply the first fert with the grass seed or a couple days later?

Thanks in advance for the help and sorry if they're noob questions but I know squat about growing grass.
 
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