Lawn and Landscape

Straw is way overrated and has been for years, causes seed not to come up, then when the weed seed decides to choke out your fescue and keep it from maturing until it burns out in early summer

Best lawns I have ever grown never placed a lick of straw on them

Aerify the crap out of it, 5 or 6 different ways, make it look like it’s been plowed, pour the seed to it, drag it in with a piece of chain link fence or a pallet drug behind you riding mower

It will cover the seed about 1/4” deep, then water, water ,water for the first 20 days, you say I can’t water during the day without irrigation, sure you can, get a cheap battery powered water controller that hooks on your spicket

It’s not a bad price on the seed, but you pay for what you get, blue tag certified means your actually getting the seed that it says on the label, the inert matter on the label needs to read zero, inert matter means your getting a lot of stalks and weed seeds in that bag and not pure seed

Not trying to be an ass, just trying to educate
 
That tag that reads noxious weeds found none, and weed seeds 0% means nothing in the state of NC and SC, if the state doesn’t consider it a weed seed the grass seed supplier doesn’t have to list it on the label as a weed
 
guffey24 said:
Straw is way overrated and has been for years, causes seed not to come up, then when the weed seed decides to choke out your fescue and keep it from maturing until it burns out in early summer

Best lawns I have ever grown never placed a lick of straw on them

Aerify the crap out of it, 5 or 6 different ways, make it look like it’s been plowed, pour the seed to it, drag it in with a piece of chain link fence or a pallet drug behind you riding mower

It will cover the seed about 1/4” deep, then water, water ,water for the first 20 days, you say I can’t water during the day without irrigation, sure you can, get a cheap battery powered water controller that hooks on your spicket

It’s not a bad price on the seed, but you pay for what you get, blue tag certified means your actually getting the seed that it says on the label, the inert matter on the label needs to read zero, inert matter means your getting a lot of stalks and weed seeds in that bag and not pure seed

Not trying to be an ass, just trying to educate
Click to expand...

Truth people. Truth.
 
They are saying we may get frost in Raleigh Monday 10/22- What does this mean for my new grass? I seeded on 9/30 and re-applied again after Michael passed on 10/12. Yard is looking pretty good (not as thick as I'd like it) but I'm worried the frost will kill the new grass and stop germination of any remaining seed. So I guess my question is - Should I be concerned or is it pretty much out of my hands at this point?
 
In the same boat. I'm hoping that the cover provided by the existing turf and me keeping the ground moist for the new seedlings will warm the ground enough to protect them from the forecast 37-39 degrees early Monday morning.

Let's see if the pros agree with me...
 
Guffey told me one time to water the night before the frost and the water would help protect the grass from damage.

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Tim88XJ said:
They are saying we may get frost in Raleigh Monday 10/22- What does this mean for my new grass? I seeded on 9/30 and re-applied again after Michael passed on 10/12. Yard is looking pretty good (not as thick as I'd like it) but I'm worried the frost will kill the new grass and stop germination of any remaining seed. So I guess my question is - Should I be concerned or is it pretty much out of my hands at this point?
Click to expand...
Basically out of your hands but a light frost won't hurt anything. BUT NEVER walk on turf that has frost on it! And yes a turf or any plant will fare better if it has ample moisture before the cold and frost hit. Cold weather is very drying and plants cannot protect themselves if they are already too dry.
 
Had a big pine tree get dumped over during Florence. Tree guys came out and hauled it away (along with a nice apple tree I had and half a dogwood)

1) how do I repair the ruts in the yard? Soil is packed pretty hard now. I'm not sure I'll need to reseed. The yard is mostly weeds anyway!

2) is the tree in the picture worth saving? I said that one was to go but I guess that got missed. I figure those guys know what's a total goner so if they kept it there's probably a reason. About half of it got split off by the pine.

3) any suggestions for this giant bare spot in my yard? I always had a desire to put a small decorative pond there, but it just looks so bare and empty now. I wonder if I should replace with more trees?
592ef7280afd368f2bd72aa6c6a1c331.jpg
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Macdaddy4738 said:
Had a big pine tree get dumped over during Florence. Tree guys came out and hauled it away (along with a nice apple tree I had and half a dogwood)

1) how do I repair the ruts in the yard? Soil is packed pretty hard now. I'm not sure I'll need to reseed. The yard is mostly weeds anyway!

2) is the tree in the picture worth saving? I said that one was to go but I guess that got missed. I figure those guys know what's a total goner so if they kept it there's probably a reason. About half of it got split off by the pine.

3) any suggestions for this giant bare spot in my yard? I always had a desire to put a small decorative pond there, but it just looks so bare and empty now. I wonder if I should replace with more trees?
592ef7280afd368f2bd72aa6c6a1c331.jpg
3d409bfa44c02bb76c052b7804439d74.jpg
5a78149c9b85023433b05f5fc8464264.jpg


Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
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Cultivate soil somehow, a Mantis tiller would work nicely but any way that you can rough it up will help, Seed and fertilize and cover with wheat straw. Call that tree a survivor and leave it. It'll give you a good story to tell.
Edit: That tree is a leaner so go ahead and cut it out.
 
Back from the dead-after a long winter I'm looking for input from the Pro's or anyone who knows better than I. When should I be spreading pre-emergant and crab-grass killer? now, soon, have I missed the boat? Also What type of fertilizer needs to be going down now for my Fescue lawn?

In addition I have some clovers and dandelions (?) that have developed over the winter, when can I start planning to spray those with 2-4-d? I have read several things that say to wait until March when they are growing but they clearly seem to be growing now with all the rain we've had.



-Tim
 
Tim88XJ said:
Back from the dead-after a long winter I'm looking for input from the Pro's or anyone who knows better than I. When should I be spreading pre-emergant and crab-grass killer? now, soon, have I missed the boat? Also What type of fertilizer needs to be going down now for my Fescue lawn?

In addition I have some clovers and dandelions (?) that have developed over the winter, when can I start planning to spray those with 2-4-d? I have read several things that say to wait until March when they are growing but they clearly seem to be growing now with all the rain we've had.



-Tim
Click to expand...
Your premergent and fert app are one in the same. I like to make that app the first week in March. For the broadleaf weeds you can spray now and again in a few weeks when the ones that aren't here now start growing again.
 
Now a decent time to plant seed? I know a few days this week in the Raleigh area will still be around 35* but the days are warmer now.

Trying to get my lawn better this year after a few years of neglect, but way to much yard to do it all, so doing just a part of the front now.
 
DSM Turbos said:
Now a decent time to plant seed? I know a few days this week in the Raleigh area will still be around 35* but the days are warmer now.

Trying to get my lawn better this year after a few years of neglect, but way to much yard to do it all, so doing just a part of the front now.
Click to expand...

did the utility co. fix the mess they made of the ROW ?
 
guffey24 said:
Straw is way overrated and has been for years, causes seed not to come up, then when the weed seed decides to choke out your fescue and keep it from maturing until it burns out in early summer

Best lawns I have ever grown never placed a lick of straw on them

Aerify the crap out of it, 5 or 6 different ways, make it look like it’s been plowed, pour the seed to it, drag it in with a piece of chain link fence or a pallet drug behind you riding mower

It will cover the seed about 1/4” deep, then water, water ,water for the first 20 days, you say I can’t water during the day without irrigation, sure you can, get a cheap battery powered water controller that hooks on your spicket

It’s not a bad price on the seed, but you pay for what you get, blue tag certified means your actually getting the seed that it says on the label, the inert matter on the label needs to read zero, inert matter means your getting a lot of stalks and weed seeds in that bag and not pure seed

Not trying to be an ass, just trying to educate
Click to expand...


Most of my yard is on a slope and I would never be able to grow grass w/o using straw to keep the dirt and seed from washing down the hill w heavy rains. It also holds some moisture so I don't have to water as much.
 
DSM Turbos said:
Now a decent time to plant seed? I know a few days this week in the Raleigh area will still be around 35* but the days are warmer now.

Trying to get my lawn better this year after a few years of neglect, but way to much yard to do it all, so doing just a part of the front now.
Click to expand...

I just completely reseeded my septic field area a week ago due to all the grass getting destroyed from removing a bunch of trees. I figure it will all come up by this coming weekend due to the warmer weather.
 
DSM Turbos said:
Now a decent time to plant seed? I know a few days this week in the Raleigh area will still be around 35* but the days are warmer now.

Trying to get my lawn better this year after a few years of neglect, but way to much yard to do it all, so doing just a part of the front now.
Click to expand...

Depends on whether you want cool season (fescue) or warm season (centipede, zoysia, bermuda,etc) grass. If cool season, anything that goes down now will grow, but will probably die in the summer for lack of roots. Regular watering may prevent that. Any pre-emergent put down in the spring will prevent all seeds from germinating (including the grass seed), so keep that in mind as well.

Tim88XJ said:
Back from the dead-after a long winter I'm looking for input from the Pro's or anyone who knows better than I. When should I be spreading pre-emergant and crab-grass killer? now, soon, have I missed the boat? Also What type of fertilizer needs to be going down now for my Fescue lawn?
Click to expand...

@trailhugger buys all our stuff from Site One on the east side of town (64 and New Hope, just south of Yard Waste). I'm pretty sure you can go in there and tell them "I want to fix my grass", and they'll send you out with exactly what you need.
 
Also, we were talking tonight about buying some kind of boom sprayer setup that could be towed around the yard. We don't really have a good solution for putting down liquids otherwise.

I was thinking about something like this:

FIMCO® Trailer Sprayer, 20 Gallon

Open to suggestions.
 
I saw a guy that rigged one up out of pvc pipe for the boom. Mounted the boom to the back rack of his 4 wheeler tapped it with some nozzles and used the 25gallon sprayer to feed it. Not sure how good it worked, might be worth a try if you have a sprayer already for a 4 wheeler.
 
83oldyoda4x4 said:
I saw a guy that rigged one up out of pvc pipe for the boom. Mounted the boom to the back rack of his 4 wheeler tapped it with some nozzles and used the 25gallon sprayer to feed it. Not sure how good it worked, might be worth a try if you have a sprayer already for a 4 wheeler.
Click to expand...

I've got a backpack sprayer and a couple of those little 1-gal handheld pumpers. That's it. I thought that maybe I could get an ATV-style tank and retrofit it. I could even set it in the trailer we already have. But the complete setup isn't that much more. And if there's one thing we need, it's another expensive tool that only does one job.
 
shawn said:
Also, we were talking tonight about buying some kind of boom sprayer setup that could be towed around the yard. We don't really have a good solution for putting down liquids otherwise.

I was thinking about something like this:

FIMCO® Trailer Sprayer, 20 Gallon

Open to suggestions.
Click to expand...
What do you have to tow it with? I’ve made a good spray rig with a Northern tank and pump and made a boom that attaches to my Lazer. Northern and Tractor Supply carry all the parts you need to do it.
 
I know this is broke up and rough but I’m on my phone at 1:26 am wishing i could sleep. I used this tank and pump and made a boom and used it for years on my Lazer Z.
 
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