Lawn and Landscape

Ron said:
look up "soil ribbon test"
@trailhugger with a water bottle, 3 toddlers and 15 minutes can get a dar near perfect spectrum analysis of the sand/loam/clay profile...I can link more details later but I bet youtube is full of example
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Just one toddler... A week shy of 3. The others are 4, 5, 6, 8, and 11 but the 11-yo declined to participate and the 8-yo was inside playing in her room.

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It's sandy loam, best I can tell.

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(My nephews are here bc my parents are in Sumter for a funeral)
 
Ron said:
@guffey24 do yall get into agricultural fescue applications any?

I need to improve my forage grass. These arent FDA animals, really just my daughters pets if Im honest but I need more/better grazing grass.
Im trying to improve ~20 acres of fescue...have tractor and spreader, would buy a small/mid size sprayer if need be.
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I do, I work with a bunch of horse farm work

Equestrian center and some other small stuff
 
guffey24 said:
No such thing as slow release phosphorus

in a slow release fertilizer, only thing slow is the nitrogen
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Lol shows what I know! My reason for this line of thinking is, I used to only use 19-19-19 at fall seeding time because the fert reacted fast but was gone fast, then I would follow up quickly with a winterizer and had great results. Well I did soil tests on my properties and found that my Phosphorous was low across the board and the Lesco guys recommended starter because it was slow release and would be around longer...
 
R Q said:
Lol shows what I know! My reason for this line of thinking is, I used to only use 19-19-19 at fall seeding time because the fert reacted fast but was gone fast, then I would follow up quickly with a winterizer and had great results. Well I did soil tests on my properties and found that my Phosphorous was low across the board and the Lesco guys recommended starter because it was slow release and would be around longer...
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I don’t like seeding and fertilizing at the same time regardless of what your using

Think about it this way, you have existing grass, you seed and fertilizer with a All quick release fertilizer, it feeds for two weeks, it takes 10-14 for germination of your seed, so all you have done is feed your existing grass and it’s gone by the time your seed germinates and starts growing

That reason is why you see so many fescue yards that don’t mature until spring

Here are my recommendations

Aerify, seed, first couple weeks of September, after the grass germinates and starts growing several weeks later apply your slow release starter fertilizer, it will release all the phosphorus first and your seedlings will take up what they need immediately and roots will start forming great, the slow release nitrogen will benefit the new grass and the old grass at this time, releasing over a period of about 4-6 weeks

I like to feed the grass again middle of October to help in the maturing of the seedlings, if you need phosphorus apply another round of slow release starter

I then feed again with a high nitrogen semi slow release 25% or so around December 1

Your grass will be mature after this application, no more nitrogen until spring, too much nitrogen in January/ February will cause spring disease

March 1-15, apply pre-emerge with a low amount of Nitrogen, then no more nitrogen until fall
 
anyone have any experience with a stihl br600 back pack blower? compare to a redmax? Local dealer has some demo models for a good price with full warranty. I need a blower with some ass to move all these leaves this fall.
 
83oldyoda4x4 said:
anyone have any experience with a stihl br600 back pack blower? compare to a redmax? Local dealer has some demo models for a good price with full warranty. I need a blower with some ass to move all these leaves this fall.
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I'm not a big Stihl blower and trimmer fan, love their chain saws though. The 4 stroke has more low end torque but requires valve adjustment periodically. Red Max was a bare bones machine but has been bought out by Echo. The Echo 770t is a beast of a blower and their new 8010 is even bigger and more powerful but I it does have a lot of Red Max influence.
 
I have an ungodly amount of crabgrass this year. I went against my better judgement in the spring and let the aerate guy throw down some half rye mix crap that's now all brown, and pretty much the only green stuff is leftover from last year and crabgrass. I hit it with a dose of weed-b-gone with crabgrass control, and it just laughed. Should I go through a few more bottles of that stuff, maybe every 2 weeks give it a spray? I want a do-over with the fall aerate and seed and I'd like to get the yard ready in time.
 
paulevans76 said:
I have an ungodly amount of crabgrass this year. I went against my better judgement in the spring and let the aerate guy throw down some half rye mix crap that's now all brown, and pretty much the only green stuff is leftover from last year and crabgrass. I hit it with a dose of weed-b-gone with crabgrass control, and it just laughed. Should I go through a few more bottles of that stuff, maybe every 2 weeks give it a spray? I want a do-over with the fall aerate and seed and I'd like to get the yard ready in time.
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Look for a product called Drivexlr8

Spray it at 1.5oz per 1000 sqft in a dilution, mixed with a good surfactant, get rid of the crabgrass now and aerify and seed in the fall
 
@R Q @guffey24
Request for some more soil sample insite.

This is pasture grazing lad not a yard but is fescue.

Lower pasture:
upload_2019-8-7_12-18-42.png


Upper Pasture:

upload_2019-8-7_12-20-4.png



recomendations?
 
Ron said:
@R Q @guffey24
Request for some more soil sample insite.

This is pasture grazing lad not a yard but is fescue.

Lower pasture:
View attachment 300213

Upper Pasture:

View attachment 300214


recomendations?
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It looks like you have done a pretty good job with it. Your upper pasture could use calcitic lime if you care to put the money into it. It's 2-3 times the cost of dolomitic but takes less product to change the pH and it also works faster. What fertilizers have you used in the past and at what times of year? Do you use a Co Op/Southern States type truck to spread or do you do it? Depending on your acreage they can be cheaper than it costs for you to buy the product alone, same for the lime.
I'm sure Guffey can break it down better than me but I would be pretty happy with what you've got except for the slightly low ph in the upper pasture.
 
R Q said:
It looks like you have done a pretty good job with it. Your upper pasture could use calcitic lime if you care to put the money into it. It's 2-3 times the cost of dolomitic but takes less product to change the pH and it also works faster. What fertilizers have you used in the past and at what times of year? Do you use a Co Op/Southern States type truck to spread or do you do it? Depending on your acreage they can be cheaper than it costs for you to buy the product alone, same for the lime.
I'm sure Guffey can break it down better than me but I would be pretty happy with what you've got except for the slightly low ph in the upper pasture.
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Phosphorus levels are low, if you do use southern states spread truck, do an application of triple super phosphate to start bringing those phosphorus levels up

Phosphorus makes roots, better roots more yields for hay or grazing potential
 
Looks like I am going to try and have a nice yard now. I know I want to aerate and seed in September but is it too hot now to try and fight the weeds and clover or do i just need to wait until spring with a pre emergent?
 
jeepyjman said:
Looks like I am going to try and have a nice yard now. I know I want to aerate and seed in September but is it too hot now to try and fight the weeds and clover or do i just need to wait until spring with a pre emergent?
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It's early enough where you can spray now to eradicate some weeds. There are products that will get broadleaf and grassy weeds but you will need to go to a pro store such as SiteOne to get someone knowledgeable to guide you on the products to use, the big box stores consumer products are sketchy at best! A soil test now would be a good idea so you can know your starting point. If you are covered up with crabgrass then it would be good to kill it soon so the new seed will not be crowded out. If you just have sparse weeds don't worry about it. Clover is easily killed with an application after the turf is up and has been mowed a few times.
 
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I cleared an area around the small shop in Camden. Before I went to Harlan I threw some centipede seed out. Would a weed and feed be good to get it growing and spreading faster? Or would just watering often help?
 
ghost said:
View attachment 300246 I cleared an area around the small shop in Camden. Before I went to Harlan I threw some centipede seed out. Would a weed and feed be good to get it growing and spreading faster? Or would just watering often help?
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How long has this been growing? I see what looks like a good bit of Nutsedge but can't be sure due to pic quality. You might be better off mowing it and putting some light fertilizer on it and watering it. I'm talking like some 16-4-8 with no weed killing or preventing additives.
 
R Q said:
How long has this been growing? I see what looks like a good bit of Nutsedge but can't be sure due to pic quality. You might be better off mowing it and putting some light fertilizer on it and watering it. I'm talking like some 16-4-8 with no weed killing or preventing additives.
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Yea I just trew down some seed from lowes around June 30th. Thanks I'll check that out. I'd like more grass there so I'm not mowing dirt. It was so thick in vines and privet and other small trees and bushes you could not even walk there.
 
jeepyjman said:
Looks like I am going to try and have a nice yard now. I know I want to aerate and seed in September but is it too hot now to try and fight the weeds and clover or do i just need to wait until spring with a pre emergent?
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Seed in late September. I would not spray now. Most weed killers state not to spray within six weeks of seeding, because it will prevent the seed from germinating. Lower the deck and cut the lawn low right before you aerate and seed. If your lawn is all weeds, put the deck all the way down in the dirt, and scalp the yard before aerating and seeding.
 
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Hopefully this is a better picture of what is there with the grass. Don’t think this stuff was in the seed because it’s growing where I didn’t put seed. I’ll hit up Lowe’s today or this weekend for that fertilizer. When I spread it should I water too or just spread?
 
ghost said:
View attachment 300291

Hopefully this is a better picture of what is there with the grass. Don’t think this stuff was in the seed because it’s growing where I didn’t put seed. I’ll hit up Lowe’s today or this weekend for that fertilizer. When I spread it should I water too or just spread?
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When you originally posted I was not sure how long ago you had seeded and if you put broadleaf weed killer on new turf it can stunt or kill it. Personally I would mow it low, fertilize it and water the fert in good and then one to two times per week after that. Since it has been there for as long as it has, you should be able to apply broadleaf weed killer and not harm the new grass but If you do that then don't mow it, apply it to what's there so it has plenty of leaf surface to stick to. I am not a warm season turf guy so @guffey24 can tell you better which broadleaf weed control product to get if you choose to go that route.
 
drkelly said:
Seed in late September. I would not spray now. Most weed killers state not to spray within six weeks of seeding, because it will prevent the seed from germinating. Lower the deck and cut the lawn low right before you aerate and seed. If your lawn is all weeds, put the deck all the way down in the dirt, and scalp the yard before aerating and seeding.
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There are plenty of good herbicides that you can seed into directly after spraying

Spray now, get rid of the weeds, you won’t hurt the grass, and if you do, your putting seed in the ground soon after
 
I'm in the market for a riding mower. My current lawn isn't big around probably just under 1/2 an acre. I know I won't be in this house forever and when I do move I'll be looking for a larger yard. I figure I'll spend the money on a good rider now rather than wait till I need it and have other expenses. I won't be using it to tow any sort of implements besides a lawn cart and sweeper from time to time.

I was looking at the JD E140 but I've found it very difficult to find unbiased information about it. I know these E series are big box specials and aren't typical JD quality, but I'm fine with that. I treat my stuff well enough and won't be doing anything unreasonable with it. While not an incredible investment, I do want this mower to last a while, at least 10 years. I'm not sure the E is capable of that.

That said, I've been eying the X330 42 inch deck model. They have a 300 off promotion running right now and a good financing deal. I wonder if this is the better route? It's certainly overkill for my current yard but I suspect the X series will last much longer than the E and be up for more lawn tasks. Thoughts?

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk
 
@R Q or @guffey24
I am not familiar with the southern states fertilizer truck program and a quick google is netting ....nothing.
ANy info or insioght y'all can share?

That certainly sounds better and cheaper than the way Ive done it (bunch of bags and a pull behind broadcaster)
 
Ron said:
@R Q or @guffey24
I am not familiar with the southern states fertilizer truck program and a quick google is netting ....nothing.
ANy info or insioght y'all can share?

That certainly sounds better and cheaper than the way Ive done it (bunch of bags and a pull behind broadcaster)
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Call the Rock Hill Store and ask if they have a fertilizer/lime truck that can come to your property. That's the closest that I found to Sharon, SC They can recommend a local ag company if they don't go that far. Google says it's only 14 miles to Rock Hill from Sharon? Check with local farmers, cattle hay growers, etc., and they should know who to call.
 
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